L98 Spark Plugs
#21
Ok, I will wait to mess with cutting them off until I make sure it fits good over the distributor. I didn’t take the other cap off yet but I toook the distributor cover off and I saw that mine is the screw down type. I don’t see how the cap is made to be either screw or clamp down though because the metal screws go through a small hole and are bent on the ends so they can’t come out but I will read the instructions to make sure. I posted a picture earlier of what they look like in the cap. Yeah I like the red wires too, I got jegs red hot pow’r wires and they have a good red color to them. Then I plan on getting the proform valve covers sometime that are chrome with a red Chevy symbol and black “Chevrolet” writing.
#22
I just read the instructions and there is nothing about the screw down type cap. Here is some close ups of how the clamps are in the cap. If I can just get them out I would need to get some 10-24 machine screws from what I have read and that would make it work fine. My cap doesn’t come with the dust cover I will just use the old one and it has the little covers over the wires like you were talking about I think where it tells which cylinder they are too.
#23
Intermediate
I just read the instructions and there is nothing about the screw down type cap. Here is some close ups of how the clamps are in the cap. If I can just get them out I would need to get some 10-24 machine screws from what I have read and that would make it work fine. My cap doesn’t come with the dust cover I will just use the old one and it has the little covers over the wires like you were talking about I think where it tells which cylinder they are too.
sounds to me like u need to take it to a mechanic !
Last edited by skinnyt; 08-24-2018 at 10:51 PM.
#24
What??? I’m not sure what you mean. I’m no mechanic but just wanted to do this myself and I don’t think it seems very hard. It’s just this cap is made for clamp down and mine is screw down. I just need those clamps out and replace them with some machine screws and I don’t see what a flat head screw driver is going to help with them.
Last edited by 85 CRVET; 08-24-2018 at 11:10 PM.
#26
I got that one because I heard msd is a good brand and that’s the one they make for all c4s I think. I will try to get the clamps out and if I can’t get that cap to fit then I will just get a new cap but I want to see if I can make that one fit with some machine screws through the top.
Last edited by 85 CRVET; 08-25-2018 at 02:26 PM.
#27
Melting Slicks
Forget about modifying plugs and ignition, standard parts in good condition are fine have never had any problems with plugs failing to fire. Replace any old unknown age parts with new and you will never look back. Standard c4 ignition is actually very good.
Only nitro funny cars trying to push 20 gallons of fuel through in 5 seconds of a quarter mile run need a magneto type ignition to ensure a spark every time or hydraulic lock the engine and break a piston or rod...
Only nitro funny cars trying to push 20 gallons of fuel through in 5 seconds of a quarter mile run need a magneto type ignition to ensure a spark every time or hydraulic lock the engine and break a piston or rod...
#28
Team Owner
I use decent plugs that aren't iridium if factory doesn't call for it. Why? Because they are going into the trash can next year. I change cap and rotor and plugs every year. Check plug wires for leaks when it is cold and hot to decide if a change is needed. If the plugs are not the same as each other, it indicates a problem somewhere and then I can go further.
Flush all fluids and every so often. I do brakes every 2 years. Clean and test injectors every 3. This is for all my cars. Wouldn't hurt to change the O2 sensor after 5 years.
Flush all fluids and every so often. I do brakes every 2 years. Clean and test injectors every 3. This is for all my cars. Wouldn't hurt to change the O2 sensor after 5 years.
#29
I want to say thank you to all of you who help me decide what to do for the tune up. It has made the car a lot better I can tell. I just got the msd cap on by cutting the clamp screws and using the springs as washers with a machine screw in each of them. We got the cap and rotor, plugs, plug wires, and fuel filter all done today. I didn’t even think this would help it but my corvette has always had long starting like 5 full seconds sometimes and I just thought that’s how it is since it’s 30 some years old but after this it starts right up like a regular car. I take it that it was the fuel filter because when we got that off a lot of brown liquid came out and when it started hard it would help a little if you would touch the gas pedal some. Now I have tried it 4 times and it has fired right up every time. Thanks for the help. I’ll have to post some pictures of how it looks now because it looks good with the red cap and red jegs wires and I think I got them routed pretty good too.
#30
Here’s some pictures of the coil and distributor. I was going to show them to make sure they look alright because I’m not sure how they’re supposed to look and saw they had some brown rust spots but I take it they are in good shape now since something fixed the problem of the long starting.
#31
Now the engine bay looks better. It needs valve covers sometime like the proform chrome with Chevrolet writing on top of them sometime. I used sandpaper to polish up the top of the plenum and I need to polish the runners too but they seem so hard to get to.
#33
Team Owner