When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
It is consistent, in that it happens when I try hard acceleration. Call it a gut feeling, but it feels like a fuel issue. I was a tech for a number of years but got out of the trade about the time everything went to injection. It's a head-scratcher for sure. I will know better after I take it out for a run with the pressure gauge attached.
Update. Had a fuel pressure gauge on the windshield. Two second fuel pump run pushes the pressure to 42 psi but then leaks down to 38 psi and stays there. With engine running, it drops to 34 psi at idle but goes up to 38-40 psi while revving. On the road it maintains 34 + psi an goes up to 38-40 when punching it. I did notice the engine cutting out slightly on hard acceleration, and a slight popping sound, but no drop in fuel pressure drop. Time to start checking out ignition components. The plugs are new, and this started prior to the change over so I will eliminate them from the problem. Is there any component that is known to fail more frequently on the 90 L98?
So we know it is sending fuel. I kinda wonder if the fuel is getting to the cylinder. Wouldn't hurt to check ignition. Which injectors do you have?
I likely have stock injectors but I am going to swap them out in the spring. Looks like its time to thoroughly check out ignition components. Likely need to start with wires, cap and rotor.
I likely have stock injectors but I am going to swap them out in the spring. Looks like its time to thoroughly check out ignition components. Likely need to start with wires, cap and rotor.
Both were stock but if you have Multecs, they are crap since they cannot stand ethanol. To be fair, they weren't built for it. So if you want to continue using them, you have to constantly be filling up with 100% gas only. I choose not to be hamstrung by this so if I were to get a car with that, they go in the garbage can straight away with all the fluids I dump.
Both were stock but if you have Multecs, they are crap since they cannot stand ethanol. To be fair, they weren't built for it. So if you want to continue using them, you have to constantly be filling up with 100% gas only. I choose not to be hamstrung by this so if I were to get a car with that, they go in the garbage can straight away with all the fluids I dump.
I was leaning toward Bosch. I hear better things about them.
Probably the older ones. Give Jon at FIC a call and see what he recommends for reman ones if they are bad. I would make sure that you are getting a steady pulse using a noid light. The injectors probability of build up is high since they never have been cleaned but sending them for testing and cleaning takes the same time and cost as buying a reman set. You can run an ohm test to see if they are functioning ELECTRONICALLY but the pintle is probably still dirty.
Probably the older ones. Give Jon at FIC a call and see what he recommends for reman ones if they are bad. I would make sure that you are getting a steady pulse using a noid light. The injectors probability of build up is high since they never have been cleaned but sending them for testing and cleaning takes the same time and cost as buying a reman set. You can run an ohm test to see if they are functioning ELECTRONICALLY but the pintle is probably still dirty.
Already did the ohm test with all reading mid 15s except #1 reading 10.7. If i am pulling the plenum apart to change one, I may as well do them all.
Any details on contact info or website for "Jon at FIC"? I am not familiar with many of the US sites and vendors.
Already did the ohm test with all reading mid 15s except #1 reading 10.7. If i am pulling the plenum apart to change one, I may as well do them all.
Any details on contact info or website for "Jon at FIC"? I am not familiar with many of the US sites and vendors.
08-30-2018, 07:24 AM
