1985 corvette cam change
09-18-2018, 06:53 PM
#81
Safety Car
I have no clue what tuning does or anything about how it works.
09-18-2018, 07:51 PM
#82
I emailed Brian Ebert to see what he says when he gets back with me. So do you guys think that the miniram is the best intake. I have heard a lot of good things but I have also heard that it is bad for an auto because it takes away the low end torque and shifts too early for it. What do you guys think about the miniram? That’s the only intake I see thats still
for sale anymore and one of the only ones that I don’t think looks bad under the hood.
for sale anymore and one of the only ones that I don’t think looks bad under the hood.
09-18-2018, 07:55 PM
#83
I thought that price would be for just one too but did you click on the link? It says they are assembled and “sold in pairs”. That’s why I am thinking these would be some great heads to buy. I found two different ones that are about the same price and look about the same but one says the combustion chambers are 64cc and the other is 70cc, I’m not sure which is better for my engine.
09-18-2018, 09:07 PM
#84
I thought that price would be for just one too but did you click on the link? It says they are assembled and “sold in pairs”. That’s why I am thinking these would be some great heads to buy. I found two different ones that are about the same price and look about the same but one says the combustion chambers are 64cc and the other is 70cc, I’m not sure which is better for my engine.
09-18-2018, 09:27 PM
#85
Team Owner
You need to get a fundamental knowledge of what is going on. You don't need to know how to do it, but you need to understand at a basic level how the different parts work together on a computer controlled, fuel injected gasoline engine and how tuning the ECM can accommodate changing parts that moves the operating range of the engine outside the programmed for limits. The ECMs can handle changes to a point, then they can't.
09-19-2018, 05:03 AM
#86
Yes, I´m happy with... I got a lot of power to add to the top.
Here is my setup:
Here's what I have changed, other parts are original.
-2.5" exhaust with X-pipe, no cat´s
-Hedman headers
-New harmonic damper
-Mild Comp Cam cam
-113" Corvette heads - not ported
-1.6 ratio Scorpion roller rockers
-Boshc 4 EV14 30lb injectors with adapters
-Ported intake
-Ported SLP runners
-Ported Plenium
-New MSD wirings
-AC delete kit
-Air pump delete kit
-Airfoil
-K&N filter with opened housing
-PLX wideband
-Tuned original ECM
Dyno tested 330hp and 570Nm.
Next coming Procharger P600B with Aquamist methanol / water injection.
Here is my setup:
Here's what I have changed, other parts are original.
-2.5" exhaust with X-pipe, no cat´s
-Hedman headers
-New harmonic damper
-Mild Comp Cam cam
-113" Corvette heads - not ported
-1.6 ratio Scorpion roller rockers
-Boshc 4 EV14 30lb injectors with adapters
-Ported intake
-Ported SLP runners
-Ported Plenium
-New MSD wirings
-AC delete kit
-Air pump delete kit
-Airfoil
-K&N filter with opened housing
-PLX wideband
-Tuned original ECM
Dyno tested 330hp and 570Nm.
Next coming Procharger P600B with Aquamist methanol / water injection.
I'm still getting parts for my 85 so far I have
Scorpion 190cc heads
Ported plenum
Ported SLP runners
Ported base
Headman headers
Comp 268xfi cam
I'm going to start taking it apart this weekend hopefully.
09-19-2018, 05:53 AM
#87
Safety Car
I emailed Brian Ebert to see what he says when he gets back with me. So do you guys think that the miniram is the best intake. I have heard a lot of good things but I have also heard that it is bad for an auto because it takes away the low end torque and shifts too early for it. What do you guys think about the miniram? That’s the only intake I see thats still
for sale anymore and one of the only ones that I don’t think looks bad under the hood.
for sale anymore and one of the only ones that I don’t think looks bad under the hood.
09-19-2018, 07:55 AM
#88
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Nov 2013
Location: Greater Cincinnati Area.
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I emailed Brian Ebert to see what he says when he gets back with me. So do you guys think that the miniram is the best intake. I have heard a lot of good things but I have also heard that it is bad for an auto because it takes away the low end torque and shifts too early for it. What do you guys think about the miniram? That’s the only intake I see thats still
for sale anymore and one of the only ones that I don’t think looks bad under the hood.
for sale anymore and one of the only ones that I don’t think looks bad under the hood.
https://www.hotrod.com/articles/hrdp...sepower-guide/
I'm just honest with myself, and I think a lot of people really aren't and it causes them problems and costs them money needlessly - I want a peppy, low revving street car that performs well for what it is. Drivability is paramount. I will not beat it down the road at high RPM's to hit the powerband. It will never be raced. I don't care about blowing c5's off the road.
If that's you, then the considerations (and the costs that go with them) are very, very different from someone who does race regularly or plans too. You might be better off with the TPI and a Vortec setup. It depends on you. It is difficult to have everything, so I want the most of what I want, where I want it, at a good price.
09-19-2018, 08:57 AM
#89
Team Owner
Member Since: Sep 2001
Location: Athens AL
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Do not attempt a cam change yourself. It can be done with the engine in the car, but the engine does need to be tilted a bit, and everything in front of the motor must come out. For a first timer, I would not recommend. Plan things out and have someone else do this.
Also, you do not NEED the tune until the cam change is in, then its basically required unless you went with something that is so close to stock that it might as well be stock. In which case, what was the point anyway.
85 is quirky to tune because of the computer. This is something you would be wise to start figuring out yourself, because not many tuners are left who know how to handle it, but as far as the base tune, let someone else handle that and do the dyno tune. If I were you, I'd get whatever software is necessary to tune the 85 and take it with me when this was done. If the cam is being changed at the same time as the rest, do it all at once.
If doing just headers, the tune isnt necessary.
If doing an upgraded TPI, larger base/runners/plenum, then the tune is not necessary.
If you change to Miniram or Superram, then you might want to do the tune, these are different enough that you will have lean/rich points in the band with the stock tune, and it will probably be a bit of a dog. It will run and won't explode though. If you plan to change cam, just do these all at once. Remember the cam must be picked after you pick which intake to go with, so the bands match up. Same with the heads, though you have more leeway in the choice of port size.
If going with MR, you already have a 2000rpm TC in 85, so you're ok there. You will want to change the rear gears however, because 3.07 just isn't enough for its power band. Superram is perfect with your TC and 3.07s. As long as you never put slicks on it from then on, you'll be ok with the D36.
85 uses 24lb/hr injectors, but these are rated at a lower pressure than the 86's 22lb/hr, so they are basically the same. You will want to change them out for significant mods like the cam/heads, but that choice must be made after you've planned out your mod strategy.
Also, you do not NEED the tune until the cam change is in, then its basically required unless you went with something that is so close to stock that it might as well be stock. In which case, what was the point anyway.
85 is quirky to tune because of the computer. This is something you would be wise to start figuring out yourself, because not many tuners are left who know how to handle it, but as far as the base tune, let someone else handle that and do the dyno tune. If I were you, I'd get whatever software is necessary to tune the 85 and take it with me when this was done. If the cam is being changed at the same time as the rest, do it all at once.
If doing just headers, the tune isnt necessary.
If doing an upgraded TPI, larger base/runners/plenum, then the tune is not necessary.
If you change to Miniram or Superram, then you might want to do the tune, these are different enough that you will have lean/rich points in the band with the stock tune, and it will probably be a bit of a dog. It will run and won't explode though. If you plan to change cam, just do these all at once. Remember the cam must be picked after you pick which intake to go with, so the bands match up. Same with the heads, though you have more leeway in the choice of port size.
If going with MR, you already have a 2000rpm TC in 85, so you're ok there. You will want to change the rear gears however, because 3.07 just isn't enough for its power band. Superram is perfect with your TC and 3.07s. As long as you never put slicks on it from then on, you'll be ok with the D36.
85 uses 24lb/hr injectors, but these are rated at a lower pressure than the 86's 22lb/hr, so they are basically the same. You will want to change them out for significant mods like the cam/heads, but that choice must be made after you've planned out your mod strategy.
Last edited by vader86; 09-19-2018 at 09:00 AM.
09-19-2018, 03:05 PM
#90
No, it was from the engine
When I had installed all the parts and went to the test drive I noteced from my PLX wideband that mix ratio was too lean (about 13,8:1 full gas). Of course, since I had been able to improve intake and exhaust then I had to change bigger injectors.
Then a new test drive in the highway with my Corvette expert who tuned my ECM with Tuner Pro. He just opened the injectors opening hours.
After few highway tests, the mix ratio was 12.8:1 a full gas.
My project has now lasted about 5 years. Corvette is my hoppy...
And all this changes was my first time. Of course, I had help with my friend, web, youtube and service manual.
Here is few pictures from my engine project if you want to see.
And finally it burns well...
09-19-2018, 11:33 PM
#93
The plans with the car is to get more power with it and get a good 1/4 mile time when I test that and still have the fun of taking off from stoplights, not race it. I have always wondered why my car won’t spin the tires from a dead stop when you go full throttle, I am thinking more power will help it do this, not that I would spin tires all the time at all, it would just make me feel that it has more power if it would do that. I have been reading and think that the miniram wouldn’t be the right intake for me now, it isn’t good on an auto because it shifts early and that wouldn’t make it good for a 1/4 mile run. What do you think of the Edelbrock proflo xt intake? I have heard that you have to do something to change the throttle body but I’m not sure on this and that it is like a mix of the miniram and super ram. I think those Edelbrock heads would be perfect because they are good quality and they are cheap too. I don’t think I would want the super ram, I think it doesn’t look right on the engine and it is so expensive and hard to find. I am thinking I will see about all the other intakes but maybe go with one of the Edelbrock hi flow base manifolds and send the runners and plenum I have now to extrude honing for them to be good. I know the runners can’t be ported good but you can’t find the aftermarket runners anywhere I can see, do you know of any place that sells them? I found the Edelbrock hi flow base for around $400 on eBay. I figured get the intake figured out and get the Edelbrock 185 cc heads, then talk to comp cams for them to choose the right cam. I will be emailing TPIS to see and make sure they still do the email chip tunes and how much that will cost
bevause no one seems to do it with a dump and everyone I have heard do the chip tunes don’t do bad with them.
bevause no one seems to do it with a dump and everyone I have heard do the chip tunes don’t do bad with them.
09-19-2018, 11:39 PM
#94
Do not attempt a cam change yourself. It can be done with the engine in the car, but the engine does need to be tilted a bit, and everything in front of the motor must come out. For a first timer, I would not recommend. Plan things out and have someone else do this.
Also, you do not NEED the tune until the cam change is in, then its basically required unless you went with something that is so close to stock that it might as well be stock. In which case, what was the point anyway.
85 is quirky to tune because of the computer. This is something you would be wise to start figuring out yourself, because not many tuners are left who know how to handle it, but as far as the base tune, let someone else handle that and do the dyno tune. If I were you, I'd get whatever software is necessary to tune the 85 and take it with me when this was done. If the cam is being changed at the same time as the rest, do it all at once.
If doing just headers, the tune isnt necessary.
If doing an upgraded TPI, larger base/runners/plenum, then the tune is not necessary.
If you change to Miniram or Superram, then you might want to do the tune, these are different enough that you will have lean/rich points in the band with the stock tune, and it will probably be a bit of a dog. It will run and won't explode though. If you plan to change cam, just do these all at once. Remember the cam must be picked after you pick which intake to go with, so the bands match up. Same with the heads, though you have more leeway in the choice of port size.
If going with MR, you already have a 2000rpm TC in 85, so you're ok there. You will want to change the rear gears however, because 3.07 just isn't enough for its power band. Superram is perfect with your TC and 3.07s. As long as you never put slicks on it from then on, you'll be ok with the D36.
85 uses 24lb/hr injectors, but these are rated at a lower pressure than the 86's 22lb/hr, so they are basically the same. You will want to change them out for significant mods like the cam/heads, but that choice must be made after you've planned out your mod strategy.
Also, you do not NEED the tune until the cam change is in, then its basically required unless you went with something that is so close to stock that it might as well be stock. In which case, what was the point anyway.
85 is quirky to tune because of the computer. This is something you would be wise to start figuring out yourself, because not many tuners are left who know how to handle it, but as far as the base tune, let someone else handle that and do the dyno tune. If I were you, I'd get whatever software is necessary to tune the 85 and take it with me when this was done. If the cam is being changed at the same time as the rest, do it all at once.
If doing just headers, the tune isnt necessary.
If doing an upgraded TPI, larger base/runners/plenum, then the tune is not necessary.
If you change to Miniram or Superram, then you might want to do the tune, these are different enough that you will have lean/rich points in the band with the stock tune, and it will probably be a bit of a dog. It will run and won't explode though. If you plan to change cam, just do these all at once. Remember the cam must be picked after you pick which intake to go with, so the bands match up. Same with the heads, though you have more leeway in the choice of port size.
If going with MR, you already have a 2000rpm TC in 85, so you're ok there. You will want to change the rear gears however, because 3.07 just isn't enough for its power band. Superram is perfect with your TC and 3.07s. As long as you never put slicks on it from then on, you'll be ok with the D36.
85 uses 24lb/hr injectors, but these are rated at a lower pressure than the 86's 22lb/hr, so they are basically the same. You will want to change them out for significant mods like the cam/heads, but that choice must be made after you've planned out your mod strategy.
09-20-2018, 11:39 AM
#95
Team Owner
Member Since: Sep 2001
Location: Athens AL
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I thought that price would be for just one too but did you click on the link? It says they are assembled and “sold in pairs”. That’s why I am thinking these would be some great heads to buy. I found two different ones that are about the same price and look about the same but one says the combustion chambers are 64cc and the other is 70cc, I’m not sure which is better for my engine.
09-20-2018, 11:41 AM
#96
Team Owner
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Location: Athens AL
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why do you say not to do the cam change myself? I was just starting to think it didn’t seem that hard and I think it would be too expensive to pay someone to do that. Getting everything out of the way doesn’t seem hard at all but I figured if I read a little more and posted some pictures on here when I get to the timing chain and cam part I could get some help figuring out how to line up the cam and put the timing chain back on just to make sure it is working perfectly.
09-20-2018, 07:04 PM
#97
Ok, well I guess I will plan on getting the ones with the 70cc combustion chambers so they are closer and wouldn’t change that much. There is a mechanic shop that lives on the same block as me and I know that place so if I have problems I figure that mechanic could come down and give advice on a step if I can’t figure it out. He knows about cars a lot so I figure I will plan on doing it myself and if I run into a problem I can’t figure out then he would be able to help. It’s starting to seem not that hard though because you have to take just the whole front of the engine and get it out of the way. Then use the tool to get the harmonic balancer off. The only thing I can think of that I’m not sure of is getting the timing chain off and back on in the right position without messing up the timing and I’m not sure exactly what holds the cam in place. I will have to research how to line up the cam and what holds it in place. For the heads, once you get the intake, valve covers, and headers off then you just have to take out the bolts between the spring things, those are the rocker arms aren’t they I can’t think what they’re called? So does anyone have experience with the pro flo intake? I am trying to see what it is like and if there are fitment issues like if the stock fuel rails will fit on them. I know the throttle body needs something done with it but if it needs more modifying than that I will probably just find one of the Edelbrock hi flow 3860 intake manifolds then send my plenum and runners to extrude home to get the best I can of them. Then I would need those 185 cc heads with the 70cc chambers and then I figured comp cams would be able to tell me the right cam to put in with those specs.
09-20-2018, 07:14 PM
#98
Ok, now it’s seeming a lot easier. I found this video that show exactly how the timing chain and cam goes in place on a Chevy 350.
I never got that he cam isn’t actually bolted on before. It’s just bolts that go through the end of it to hold the timing gear on and then you line up the dots on the gears to make sure the timing is right and make sure you use engine lube. Now I am going to try to find a video like this for the cylinder heads so that I can see exactly what to do, it helps me a lot if I can see somewhat how to do something instead of just read about it.
09-20-2018, 07:18 PM
#99
Team Owner
If you are hell bent on doing this and hope to find a tuner who can make your bundle of parts work, why not pull the motor and do as much as you can outside
09-21-2018, 12:54 AM
#100
I couldn’t pull the motor, I don’t have the tools or skill to do that. I don’t mean to just find a bunch of different parts and mix up whatever combo I think of, I’m trying to think of the best combo to put on it that isn’t super expensive. I figured with the Edelbrock hi flow base and extrude honed plenum and runners it would be like stock except for flow better for higher rpms and the 185 cc heads would help this too and then whatever cam comp cams helps pick out would be the best to match with them heads and intake is what I am hoping. I’m going to have to see if I can find someone with the pro flo base and see if that fits without many modifications because that seems like it would be a good intake, a mix between the mini and super ram. That gmtuners.com place never got back with me, maybe I will email them again because it looked like they would tune it because they worked on older cars and it would be a dyno tune that way.