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I sent them a message to see if anything is damaged and told them I may be interested in buying it if it’s still available. That gmtuners place said they could tune my 85’s ram buy the way. They share the Greer performance dyno and someone from gmtuners tunes it. He said it would be around $200 an hour and would probably take 3-4 hours.
One thing I got to thinking I should ask is the header and spark plug clearance. I’m planning on getting the Hedman 68448 that are ceramic coated long tube headers which say they fit angle plug heads. Do they fit straight plug heads too because them edelbrock heads that I want are straight plug and I don’t know if straight would be better for spark plug clearance or not.
One thing I got to thinking I should ask is the header and spark plug clearance. I’m planning on getting the Hedman 68448 that are ceramic coated long tube headers which say they fit angle plug heads. Do they fit straight plug heads too because them edelbrock heads that I want are straight plug and I don’t know if straight would be better for spark plug clearance or not.
I know that with my AFR 190 heads and TPIS headers, I get to #8 easily. All the other things bolt on with no effort No fabrication of braces either.
Every spring, I can pull my plugs out so they don't sit and freeze and see if they are still in good condition and no oil. Also the plugs are regular NGK ones so no tears when I toss them and install fresh ones.
I have been talking with the tuning person and he said he would highly recommend a retrofit roller cam setup so you don’t have to add expensive zinc additive every time you change the oil. I didn’t think I saw many people changing an 85 to retrofit roller cams, I just thought a good flat tappet cam would be about as good. What do you guys think, and is it true that you need to add zinc to the oil every time you change it with a new flat tappet cam?
I know that with my AFR 190 heads and TPIS headers, I get to #8 easily. All the other things bolt on with no effort No fabrication of braces either.
Every spring, I can pull my plugs out so they don't sit and freeze and see if they are still in good condition and no oil. Also the plugs are regular NGK ones so no tears when I toss them and install fresh ones.
ok, so maybe it is easier with straight plug heads, just they put that on the website just so you know they will fit angle plug heads too then probably
I have been talking with the tuning person and he said he would highly recommend a retrofit roller cam setup so you don’t have to add expensive zinc additive every time you change the oil. I didn’t think I saw many people changing an 85 to retrofit roller cams, I just thought a good flat tappet cam would be about as good. What do you guys think, and is it true that you need to add zinc to the oil every time you change it with a new flat tappet cam?
I have been talking with the tuning person and he said he would highly recommend a retrofit roller cam setup so you don’t have to add expensive zinc additive every time you change the oil. I didn’t think I saw many people changing an 85 to retrofit roller cams, I just thought a good flat tappet cam would be about as good. What do you guys think, and is it true that you need to add zinc to the oil every time you change it with a new flat tappet cam?
I have been using for a long time this Kendall and I did not add anything
What do you guys think, and is it true that you need to add zinc to the oil every time you change it with a new flat tappet cam?
I am going to regret saying this, I am sure, as engine oil is a quasi-religious thing here..
But, at the risk of being a heretic, a-hole, I found several fascinating "oil threads" on the forum and the links to the subject matter and I did a lot of reading about oil and oil filters.. Because, frankly? I didn't know there was much difference..
There is, and particularly with the zinc and flat tappet cams.
What I read then, and I can't source it.. It's here somewhere, buried in this place.. Is that tests showed that Zinc helped flat tappet cams up to a certain amount.. And too much was actually detrimental.
What I read claimed that between about 800 and 1400 ppm was ideal, and too much was as bad as too little.
This spec can be met off the shelf with a number of the synthetic, "high mileage" oils, with no additives needed.
Ok, thanks for helping me out again. I am thinking I will just get a flat tappet cam then. I was hoping I could get by with just a flat tappet because they are way less expensive and they are easier to install too. I know the lifters need changed to a special kind for retrofit hydraulics and that means the pushrods need to be shorter too. And the timing chain I’ve heard bolts on differently so a lot of things would need to be modified for the retrofit one. I think a good flat tappet with some kind of better oil will work better for me. So what else do you think should be changed with the cam? I know the timing chain should go ahead and be changed, and I’m thinking the lifters should be with a new cam too I’m not sure about that though. And then the cylinder heads I will be getting will come assembled but does that mean they come with pushrods or would I be able to use the old pushrods? I have started saving to get the Pro Flo intake and the fuel rails for it and when I get it installed with long tube headers then I will save for the heads and cam. The tuner said this setup could get up to 400 hp at the crank. I would be very happy with that, I’m not thinking it will be quite that high, but I’m hoping for a little over 300rwhp.
Cam change means you do lifters too unless it's a roller. Do you use a zinc additive now? Unless the cam is pretty radical you only really need the extra zinc for breakin. Timing chain is exactly the same, you just add a 3 dollar button to the end of it to keep it lined up with a roller.
I am going to regret saying this, I am sure, as engine oil is a quasi-religious thing here..
But, at the risk of being a heretic, a-hole, I found several fascinating "oil threads" on the forum and the links to the subject matter and I did a lot of reading about oil and oil filters.. Because, frankly? I didn't know there was much difference..
There is, and particularly with the zinc and flat tappet cams.
What I read then, and I can't source it.. It's here somewhere, buried in this place.. Is that tests showed that Zinc helped flat tappet cams up to a certain amount.. And too much was actually detrimental.
What I read claimed that between about 800 and 1400 ppm was ideal, and too much was as bad as too little.
This spec can be met off the shelf with a number of the synthetic, "high mileage" oils, with no additives needed.
It is an article posted by 540 RAT, just search the web for 540 RAT oil article and you will find it. All should read the article and understand what is written there, it is a very impressive document.
No I don’t use any zinc now, and that’s why I thought it would be weird that I need to use special oil for the new cam. I’m thinking I will just read about what to do to break it in when I am ready to do that and then I will just use some of that high mileage oil between those amounts that you said were good. I found and read some of that article and they sure did a lot of tests on a lot of different oils. I don’t know why comp cams won’t get back with me. I sent them a regular email then I sent it through the cam recommendation way that i found later and no response either way.
I haven’t posted here in a while. I still plan on changing the intake, heads, and cam. I have long tube headers on the car now. They are the hedman 68448 and they fit good and are ceramic coated but it’s hard to get to the spark plugs because they are straight plug heads in the 85 so I’ll be getting angled plug heads when I buy the cylinder heads. You can still change them, it’s just harder than normal and the wires are really close to the header. I have changed my mind on the intake. I am saving up to buy the FIRST tpi intake right now. I've heard good things about it and it keeps about the same torque as the stock tpi but let’s it breathe close to 6000 rpms and has a better torque curve the whole way. People have modified the stock tpi as much as possible with bigger runners and the big mouth base and spent more on the parts for that and then switched to the First tpi and it flowed better stock than the modified tpi. You can get the FIRST painted whatever color you want too when you order it for an extra $150.
I haven’t posted here in a while. I still plan on changing the intake, heads, and cam. I have long tube headers on the car now. They are the hedman 68448 and they fit good and are ceramic coated but it’s hard to get to the spark plugs because they are straight plug heads in the 85 so I’ll be getting angled plug heads when I buy the cylinder heads. You can still change them, it’s just harder than normal and the wires are really close to the header. I have changed my mind on the intake. I am saving up to buy the FIRST tpi intake right now. I've heard good things about it and it keeps about the same torque as the stock tpi but let’s it breathe close to 6000 rpms and has a better torque curve the whole way. People have modified the stock tpi as much as possible with bigger runners and the big mouth base and spent more on the parts for that and then switched to the First tpi and it flowed better stock than the modified tpi. You can get the FIRST painted whatever color you want too when you order it for an extra $150.
I changed mine newer #113 Corvette heads wich are angled plugs hole.
Now I change colder plugs from Accel, because I´m installing Procharger.
My FIRST intake is about to be shipped to me. They sent me a picture before it was packed into a box, here it is. They didn’t add the throttle body until after the picture was taken. I said before I was planning on getting heads and a cam too. I will be installing this first but I have been researching a lot about what heads and cam I want. I have it planned to get afr 195 heads and use a .041 gasket to make it 10:1 compression and then I will get a roller cam like many have suggested. I checked with comp cams and this is the one they recommended so I will get this kit. https://www.compcams.com/xtreme-mari...all-block.html I was glad they recommended a cam that has a bit of a choppy idle to it. I love the sound of a cam. Then I will just need the cam button with it. I won’t be getting the heads and cam for a long while but at least I know what I’m getting now so I know how much to save for it.
I got some pictures of how big the ports are on the plenum and I also mounted the fuel pressure regulator onto it. I’m hoping to start taking the old intake off the beginning of next month sometime.
I finally took the old intake off so I will start putting the new one on soon. ill just have to reroute the vacuum lines to the different spots on the FIRST and I’ll have someone helping make new fuel lines.
09-25-2018, 04:58 PM
