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Dana 44 center section removal

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Old 09-13-2018, 06:35 PM
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DykstraMotorsports
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Default Dana 44 center section removal

I'm replacing my center section of my Dana 44. I know I have to unbolt the half shafts and drive shaft. My question is, Do I have to remove the whole assembly ie, bat wings, or can I just remove the center section?

Thanks in advance,
Dave

Last edited by DykstraMotorsports; 09-13-2018 at 06:38 PM.
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Old 09-13-2018, 08:08 PM
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drcook
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working on and cleaning up the one I just bought, I would say remove it with the batwing as be easier to handle. the heavy part is the center/gear section of course and it is harder to handle move around. if you take it out with the batwing, you should be able to rig up a jack underneath it, or one of the low HF trans jacks and simply lower it out.

plus, it is probably silicon sealed to the batwing, due to the internal support blocks needing to be up against the bearing caps as opposed to having a gasket in between the 2 pieces
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Old 09-13-2018, 08:31 PM
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Kevova
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Housing can be removed without batwing.
It depends on where you are doing it. If you have a overhead lift removing housing would be easier. In the driveway or on a kwik lift ; housing with batwing is the better route. Either way you need to support engine and transmission. A helper is highly recommended; d44 is heavy and awkward. There is a paper gasket available, if you choose to do housing alone.

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Old 09-13-2018, 09:26 PM
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DykstraMotorsports
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Originally Posted by Kevova View Post
Housing can be removed without batwing.
It depends on where you are doing it. If you have a overhead lift removing housing would be easier. In the driveway or on a kwik lift ; housing with batwing is the better route. Either way you need to support engine and transmission. A helper is highly recommended; d44 is heavy and awkward. There is a paper gasket available, if you choose to do housing alone.
Thanks for the replies. I will be doing this on my 2 post lift.
Dumb question but, why would I need to support engine and transmission?
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Old 09-13-2018, 09:31 PM
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The C beam holds them up when attached to diff housing. There is no transmission mount. With nothing to hold transmission up, engine can/will lay against composite firewall possibly cracking it.
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Old 09-13-2018, 09:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Kevova View Post
The C beam holds them up when attached to diff housing. There is no transmission mount. With nothing to hold transmission up, engine can/will lay against composite firewall possibly cracking it.
Makes sense. Jack stand will be used!! I didnít realize there isnít a trans mount.

Thanks again
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Old 09-14-2018, 09:22 AM
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You're using another to replace yours? If yes I'd think it important to confirm the thread condition/quality in the one you intend to use. I'm quite sure you'd find the thread to be M10X1.5 and the original assembly is done using a 'self-threading' fastener. I wouldn't reuse the 'self-threaders'. You can feel the the 'self-threading' feature of the old originals. The holes are also not threaded to the end so I'd suggest you measure and chase the existing ones and buy appropriate new fasteners.

User 'vetteoz' used studs to replace his. When you remove one of your originals I'd be interested in the length of the threads on the 'self-threader'. I have NOS housing and the holes are 27/29mm deep I believe and NOS rear cover I have is 14/16mm thick at the 5 points where the 'self-threaders' are used.

If there's a D44 there 'now' I'd think the 'in car' without removing the rear cover would be preferred.

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Old 09-14-2018, 10:50 AM
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However, if the OP takes it out of the car, there is an opportunity to inspect and replace the batwing bushings. I will be replacing mine with the ones I started a thread on

https://corvettesalvage.com/product/...set-1984-1996/

WVZR-1, over the weekend I will measure the bolts I was shipped with the D44/batwing that I bought and get you a thread length. I assume you are referring to the bolts that go through the batwing to fasten it to the carrier ?
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