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Im changing the half shaft u joints in my 85 vette because of some occasional bucking at low rpms and shuttering coming out of a stop and some squeaking noises. The previous owner said he replaced the u joints in the drive shaft and i think the half shafts have gone untouched, the car was somewhat abused and not maintenance very often so i think all those burnouts have done a number on those poor u joints. Can anybody give me some tips on lifting points and jackstand positioning, i only have a standard round head jack and the regular jacks that are somewhat shaped like Ys, i am worried ill damage the underbody if i dont know exactly where to put them safely. Also after i remove the u joints what else should i do while the shafts are out as far as cleaning? Also how do i go about the installation of the new u joints? Thanks!
Im changing the half shaft u joints in my 85 vette because of some occasional bucking at low rpms and shuttering coming out of a stop and some squeaking noises. The previous owner said he replaced the u joints in the drive shaft and i think the half shafts have gone untouched, the car was somewhat abused and not maintenance very often so i think all those burnouts have done a number on those poor u joints. Can anybody give me some tips on lifting points and jackstand positioning, i only have a standard round head jack and the regular jacks that are somewhat shaped like Ys, i am worried ill damage the underbody if i dont know exactly where to put them safely. Also after i remove the u joints what else should i do while the shafts are out as far as cleaning? Also how do i go about the installation of the new u joints? Thanks!
Here's a thread I used when I did the u-joints in mine which proved very helpful: https://www.digitalcorvettes.com/for...d.php?t=144562
As far as where to support the car, there are pinch weld ahead of the rear wheels behind the jack points that are used. There are YouTube videos that show where to do it.
As far as lifting the car, I use the gadgetman jack adapter. It's no longer available new, but you may be able to find one used or make your own.
Finally I made an adapter for pressing out the old u-joints that worked well as it put pressure on the u-joint instead of hammering on the half shaft to get them out.
Make sure you get the correct Spicer joints without zerk fittings first.
Preferably the rear wheel bearings would be replaced at the same time. If you can afford it, and know they havent been replaced, then do so.
As far as jacking, go with the factory marks in the rear. I make sure the puck on the jack catches the lip of the frame, then put the jackstand behind it (closer to wheel) where you see metal of the frame curve around the wheel wells. Never had a problem with that way, do it all the time.
I didn't mention it earlier, the gadgetman jack adapter lifts the rear end via the batwing instead of on the sides of the car so it can lift the whole rear end up at one time.
Here's a thread I used when I did the u-joints in mine which proved very helpful: https://www.digitalcorvettes.com/for...d.php?t=144562
As far as where to support the car, there are pinch weld ahead of the rear wheels behind the jack points that are used. There are YouTube videos that show where to do it.
As far as lifting the car, I use the gadgetman jack adapter. It's no longer available new, but you may be able to find one used or make your own.
Finally I made an adapter for pressing out the old u-joints that worked well as it put pressure on the u-joint instead of hammering on the half shaft to get them out.
Hey man, I like your u-joint tool that plugs into the ram. I think I'll make make one of those when things slow down over the winter.
Be absolutely sure that you buy the Spicer brand U-Joints Without the Zerk grease fittings.
If your car makes any real horsepower the solid joints are the ones you "need" to use, I learned the hard way when one day my left outboard half-shaft U- joint exploded. After looking at the parts we were able to see that the joints that were on the car when I bought it were the drilled type. I switched them over and no more problems. My C3 has a 427 that has been worked over and makes serious torque. After having one U-joint literally explode below the back of the Drivers seat will make a believer in quality joints. Fortunately none of the energy from the joint coming apart was pointed at my derriere.
On my C3 the drilled joint literally became a mass of little pieces all over the road. Fortunately I had a spare set of half shafts at home loaded with the proper Spicer non-drilled solid body U-Joints. We pushed my car off the road and I swapped the half shaft and got back on the road quickly.
After watching that video posted above, I feel as though I could do my half shafts on my 1988 C4 Coupe! (Thanks for the video link) They are a lot harder to do on the C4 than on a BB C3. My C3 has little Blocks of metal that hold the joints instead of the Straps used on small blocks. I can swap out half shafts pretty easily on the C3. Harbor Freight makes a tool set for installing U-Joints, it is worth having if you are going to do more than a couple joints.
While at Corvettes @ Carlisle I purchased a used set of half Shafts for both of my Corvettes. After I got home they were cleaned up, painted and had new solid joints installed, I figured they were cheap insurance. Since I am ready with spares the ones on the car will never fail, right?
When lifting your C4 be sure that you don't crush any of the brake lines on the drivers side and fuel supply and return lines on passenger side. Sadly I have seen those get crushed by idiots with a lift.
There are places to save money and there are places where you need to spend a bit extra. Don't gamble your Corvette or your life on junk U-joints!
I use a Harbor Freight press like the one in the photo's above but place a 1 3/16 or 1 1/4 inch socket on the bottom of the joint, hollow side facing the bearing for the cup to slide into, and an appropriate size to socket that's slightly smaller than the bearing cup on top and press the bottom bearing cup into the socket. No special tools needed. I just reverse the procedure to install using the same tools except I turn the larger socket over for more support when pressing the new bearing in. I did try using a drill press vise once to mimic the Gadget Man thing but found no advantage to doing it that way. For the time it takes to make or find the tool I could have the job finished but if you have it, use it I guess. I will never again use anything but Spicer brand u-joint whether or not they have the Zerk fitting. I'm old and like to be sure there is grease in there so I opt for the fitting. I have also done this job using a bench vise as is shown in the FSM but the press makes it go much easier.
Just a comment here. Years ago I was helping change out some u-joint for a friend and he pressed the old ones out using the 2 socket method. They were seized up enough it damaged the end of the driveshaft getting them loose. The tool I made along with the support under the one side is very unlikely to bend or deform the u-joint openings even on the worst situations. Not impossible but very unlikely. Besides that I had the materials, the press and welder already so it cost next to nothing to make, other than a little time and the peace of mind I had doing the job was worth the price.
09-14-2018, 01:41 AM
Half shaft service
