Jeffwilson34

This may be long but I want to describe the issue as much as possible.
The car is a 96 with the LT1 (stock as far as I know)
FTR Car has no Cats

I do not drive it much and decided to sell it. 3 days ago I went to take it out to clean it good and take some pics. It started fine and ran great. I stomped the gas and it coughed and backfired. I thought the gas gauge may be off and it was running out or something. (Polarizor is bad and makes it hard to read) I filled it up and it was low but not empty. After that it ran fine and I drove it 50+ miles with no issues. I put signs on it and started driving it instead of my GXP. I went to the store last night and about 10 minutes into the drive I stepped on the gas and it started backfiring and died. I pulled over and called my wife to bring the Jeep and trailer to tow it home. When she got there which was half an hour or so,. I tried to start it just for the heck of it and it started and ran fine. I started driving home and stepped on the gas and it did it again. I pulled over and got ready to tow. then it started again. this time it drove home fine and I did stomp the gas when I was close enough to cost home. No issues. Today I went out an started it and let it run a bit and had no problems. I turned it off and waited a while and went out to start it and it would not turn over. (it has done this a time or 2 before with one of my keys I do not think this is related The security light was solid and did not go off. I got my other key and waited 10 minutes to reset the vats and it started fine) I drove it less than 2 miles and when I started up a hill when I stepped on the gas it backfired and died again. this time it did not start back. It will turn over and crank and barely run like on one maybe 2 cylinders are firing. It also backfires a bit. (I would think jumped time if it had not done the same thing then ran fine)
It is getting gas and just to make sure I sprayed ether in it while trying to start. I bought and installed a new coil and ignition control module and that did not help.
I am thinking Optispark but want the opinion of someone who knows more than me before I go that route.

Side note, Anyone want to buy a 96 with 190xxx miles on it? I was told the engine was rebuilt when I bought it and I know the intake has been off because he painted it. $3000 As it sits or $4000 when I get it fixed

VikingTrad3r

Jeffwilson34

tried to start it this AM and it sputtered a bit but will not start

Jeffwilson34

UPDATE:

At suggestions of people I have done the following today.

• Put new battery on it- no change
• Pulled codes -it showed
  P0230 Fuel Pump Primary Circuit Malfunction
  
  Read more at: https://www.obd-codes.com/p0230
  Copyright OBD-Codes.com
  P0230 Fuel pump relay circuit (this was pulled before the battery change and the original battery had to be charged because I let it run low because of hod light being on ) It did not come back
• pulled fuel pump and confirmed was pumping fuel and not clogged.because I had let it get lower than I normally do.
• Sprayed ether and then gas from a spray bottle into the throttle body.
• Checked for spark by pulling plug wire off and holding it. close to bare metal. It was throwing spark but it appeared more red than blue.
• Pulled plug and checked compression. (I had no gauge so I used the finger in the plug hole method)
• installed new coil
• installed ignition control module
• When trying too start the RPM gauge does move

It turns over and does not start but it has a pop and sputter, It has good compression and does not sound like one does when it jumped time. I know it is not a jumping time issue because it did the same thing twice and then ran fine afterward. The problem manifested each time with a peddle to the metal situation.

playsdixie

do you have a fuel pressure qauge hooked up...is it maintaining pressure???

Jeffwilson34

I do not have a gauge. but would it not start by spraying starting fluid if it was a fuel pressure issue

Jeffwilson34

I went and borrowed a gauge to test fuel pressure. It has right at 42

RetroGuy

Could the problem be the infamous Optispark?

Jeffwilson34

That is about all that is left that it could be

Jeffwilson34

its fixed, the optispark was DOA
When he removed it something was rattling inside. when it was opened up the metal clip fell off the rotor button and then the rotor button fell off.
It was replaced with a Petris one that I was given when I bought the car He said it was a upgrade version that he just had never took time to install.. It looks to be a much better quality one that the OEM that was removed.
I was surprised that the car actually seems to have more power.
Anyone have any info on the petris brand optisparks?