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1996 LT4 Corvette Engine Rebuild!! TIPS/HELP!

Old 11-02-2018, 10:21 AM
  #21  
RandomTask
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Originally Posted by BatmobileLT4 View Post
Any links for parts used or that can be used on LT4s are very much appreciated if you would like to do so. My brother did recommend chagning the clutch out since we are down there but Clutch kits are expensive and the stock one is fine (at least to me) for now. Not sure if thats good thinking by me haha.
That's horrible thinking. Carolina Clutch has nice setups for >$300. Keep an eye on the forum for a fidanza FW. You can buy a new friction surface for them from fidanza for ~$50 last time I bought one.

Originally Posted by BatmobileLT4 View Post
Thank you very much all of you this information is gold!! I will be buying the service manuals. Currently I have the Chiltons and the owners manual for the car. The high horsepower lt1/lt4 engine book will be ordered as well. A couple questions, first for the balancer..I cant just go to OReilly and rent a balancer removal tool? Or are they just crappy and non compatible? Second when you guys say "ARP" you mean the brand that sells the bolts and such right? Thats what I immediately think of. Also I think some of the plugs when I last did them had some signs of oil so valve seals need to be replaced at some point. Benefits of the Extreme Timing Chain? Did Hotcam need a tune when installed? (will get a tune but I need the car drive-able so I can drive it to a tuner). Lastly, any one know where I can get an engine rebuild gasket set SPECIFICALLY for LT4? Even if the bottom end is fine, Its going to be worked on for the cam, I want that cam badly. Also if I get the Hotcam kit I believe Ive read threads where the springs are the weak point of the set. Whats are some good replacements for longevity?
Hunt down the service manual w/ the LT4 supplement. They're about $50 for the set when they pop up. It has all the torque specs/installation sequences/clearance info you'll need.
To answer your questions:
-You can use a standard balancer puller but you'll need to get some extended bolts (mine go through the pulley mounting holes and I put a washer+nut on the backside). I take off the crank hub by backing off the crank bolt, using the puller, backing the bolt off some more, using the puller again, repeat. . .
-Yes, ARP bolts. ARP the rods at a minimum when you get the machine work done. (Machine shop can install them). To me, the main caps aren't as important. I also picked up some ARP bolts for the heads because they were cheap. They're not necessary. Absolutely no need to go w/ ARP studs on the heads.
-Extreme timing chain only if you're beating the ever living crap out of your motor. Mine does 24 hour racing so there was a need. Do plan on replacing your chain as stock units are fairly stretchy compared to other SBC chains.
-Yes, a hotcam will need a tune.
-Rock auto for gasket sets. Just use name brand stuff and don't penny pinch on cheap gaskets.
-Anytime you increase the lift (hotter cam), it taxes your springs more. Any name brand company (crane, lunati, etc) should make a good set of aftermarket springs you can use. Really depends on the rockers/cam you go for.
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Old 11-02-2018, 12:53 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by RandomTask View Post
-Yes, a hotcam will need a tune.
-
can a tune maximize the Hot Cam potential? absolutely. Will it NEED a tune ? No, once I installed the Hot Cam, my LT4 ran well and went directly to the smog test station where it easily passed California's smog test.

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Old 11-02-2018, 12:59 PM
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Originally Posted by RandomTask View Post
Your math is bad. . . 3/8 = 0.375". You get about 0.020" more meat on the 10mm units. If you're really concerned about breaking a stud/your rocker walking around (high spring rates), just make a jump to 7/16" rockers. . . Might be tough to find some that clear the valve covers though. . .
Your right my math was bad; sorry, Dunno how that happened; big fingers / small key pad? yeah that musta been it.

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Old 11-02-2018, 01:13 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by RandomTask View Post

-Anytime you increase the lift (hotter cam), it taxes your springs more. Any name brand company (crane, lunati, etc) should make a good set of aftermarket springs you can use. Really depends on the rockers/cam you go for.
One of the few $$ bargains with an LT4 is a set of matching Hot Cam springs from Chevy.

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Old 11-02-2018, 06:44 PM
  #25  
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where in calif. are you. I have done all that you are doing, except headers, and heads. figured i dont race it, let the next person do that, car runs great, if your in so, cal. i can set you up with a great tuner in costa mesa, He is the guy that engineered the gm hot cam kit for chevy.
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Old 11-02-2018, 10:00 PM
  #26  
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Im in the Northbay. Sonoma County. There is a tuner near me who I will call up and ask for a quote and if tuning my car is possible. It is OBD2 afterall but I think Ive heard that the tuning on these cars can get a bit finicky. All my mods are have CARB E0 #'s on them except the SLP Cold Air Intake. I simply just swap it out a few weeks before smog and run the cut lid setup. Im hoping to be able to get this hotcam have my car tuned to proper specs and still pass smog. If the car runs ok and I cant get it tuned I may look at buying another ecm and sending it to PCMFORLESS. Ive heard they are great and was recommended to them even though was told it took a few tries. I do plan on racing this car just not at the moment. First I need tofocus getting it on the road, Then wrap up a few mods and enjoy it, and then race it if and when I can. This is a car Ive learned much from and enjoy and want to look back on it someday and have good memories. Even though so far I hate everyday I cant have it on the road, but it will all be worth it.
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Old 11-03-2018, 01:43 AM
  #27  
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what size injectors will you be running, not stock i hope
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Old 11-03-2018, 12:36 PM
  #28  
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There is a tuner near me who I will call up and ask for a quote and if tuning my car is possible. It is OBD2 afterall but I think Ive heard that the tuning on these cars can get a bit finicky.
They are a 1 year only interface. If the tuner doesn't have the equipment, it will cost a minimum of $400.00 for he/she to buy a Jet interface box (the other solution is much more expensive as the person who came up with the interface sold it to Jet, and while they can still sell a solution, there is added equipment that has to go with the deal which pushes it close to $1000.00 or more (I asked).

Of you can go the more expensive solution and change the ignition / computer interface.
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Old 11-04-2018, 09:25 PM
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Yes stock injectors for now. They are ohming correctly and arent clogged. Should I consider upgrading from the stock injectors for some reason?
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Old 11-05-2018, 11:08 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by BatmobileLT4 View Post
Any links for parts used or that can be used on LT4s are very much appreciated if you would like to do so. My brother did recommend chagning the clutch out since we are down there but Clutch kits are expensive and the stock one is fine (at least to me) for now. Not sure if thats good thinking by me haha.
If you have the original clutch pressure plate in there and it's still in good shape, then I would not get rid of it. It's original made-in-USA OEM quality. All new replacements being made today are from China, and the quality is bad. Ditto for the throwout bearing (maybe even more so). If you do replace them, sell me your used pieces!

Whether you keep the original dual-mass flywheel really depends on what how you plan to use the car. The stock DM flywheel is very heavy (40lbs) and slows down the car in 1st and 2nd gear considerably. But it's quite and very easy to modulate in traffic. An aluminum Fidanza is light (13lb), and the car will be noticeably faster in the lower gears, but it will make the transmission rattle in neutral and it will require more technique to smoothly modulate it in traffic, drive-throughs, etcs. It's all tradeoffs.
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Old 11-05-2018, 02:35 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by MatthewMiller View Post

Whether you keep the original dual-mass flywheel really depends on what how you plan to use the car. The stock DM flywheel is very heavy (40lbs) and slows down the car in 1st and 2nd gear considerably. But it's quite and very easy to modulate in traffic. An aluminum Fidanza is light (13lb), and the car will be noticeably faster in the lower gears, but it will make the transmission rattle in neutral and it will require more technique to smoothly modulate it in traffic, drive-throughs, etcs. It's all tradeoffs.
SPEC's "lite" billet steel at about 22 pounds is a nice compromise, although they make a heavier billet steel flywheel if you want to maintain closer to "stock" drivability.

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Old 11-05-2018, 08:02 PM
  #32  
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Drag racing the inertia from the heavier flywheel is considered a benefit in the Holeshot. In all other forms of racing,, momentum is lost in deceleration and re-acceleration, requires the lightest possible flywheel.
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