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1991 corvette 383 stoker needs cam

Old 11-06-2018, 12:11 AM
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Lanceangle
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Default 1991 corvette 383 stoker needs cam

Hi, I have a 1991 corvette with a l98 engine in it. It is a 383 stroker with 10:1 compression, 1.6 RRs, itís also going to have 3.75 gears, a victor jr intake with a holly 750 double pumper on it. I donít know what cam I should get or what cam specs I should have, iv called jegs and summit and the one I narrowed it down to is the Lunati 20120121. It is 232/242 duration at .050 with .507/.507 lift( I know it will be higher with the 1.6RRs) and 110lsa. Would this be a good cam?Itís going to be a mostly drag race, street race car with the occasional trip to McDonaldís lol. Idk what track times I would get but Iím thinking I should be somewhere in the lower 12s. Any help I can get would be apretiated. Thanks you
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Old 11-06-2018, 01:15 AM
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Hitech made my 383 cam. Seems to work pretty well. Sure, it can be called nasty and rough but it made 420 RWHP and it is streetable. Only thing is the rockers are uneven. Intakes were bigger than exhaust.

Holley Stealth Ram, 42# injectors, AFR 190 heads, 1.6 intake RR and 1.5 exhaust RR, 230/236 622 / .570 lift 110 lobe sep, 108 intake centerline (2 deg. advanced), TPIS Long Tube Headers, Random Tech Cat, Borla exhaust, Rossler Trans, 3.54 D44 rear end, HiTech Motorsport tuned ECM.
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Old 11-06-2018, 08:58 AM
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Originally Posted by aklim View Post
Hitech made my 383 cam. Seems to work pretty well. Sure, it can be called nasty and rough but it made 420 RWHP and it is streetable. Only thing is the rockers are uneven. Intakes were bigger than exhaust.

Holley Stealth Ram, 42# injectors, AFR 190 heads, 1.6 intake RR and 1.5 exhaust RR, 230/236 622 / .570 lift 110 lobe sep, 108 intake centerline (2 deg. advanced), TPIS Long Tube Headers, Random Tech Cat, Borla exhaust, Rossler Trans, 3.54 D44 rear end, HiTech Motorsport tuned ECM.
Yea I wanted to put a stealth ram but I disided to put a carborator on it instead, would the cam I recomended be the right one for me? From what iv see most people have more lift then what I want but idk what would be good for my application
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Old 11-06-2018, 09:03 AM
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Lance, what heads are you using?
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Old 11-06-2018, 12:29 PM
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Originally Posted by MatthewMiller View Post
Lance, what heads are you using?
Iím using the stock aluminum heads that came factory with the car.
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Old 11-06-2018, 12:47 PM
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My 383 also had 10.5 compression. Holley 20 degree heads. Crane hydraulic roller 222 230 .575 lift. 112 lsa. 30lb injectors, Superram. Rossler 4l60. Mid to low 11s.
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Old 11-06-2018, 08:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Lanceangle View Post
Iím using the stock aluminum heads that came factory with the car.
That's going to dictate everything, because those heads will be highly restrictive on a 383. You obviously won't need much lift, and if you plan to retain the stock valvetrain then you can't use too aggressive of a ramp rate. Overlap will probably help. That Lunati cam you mentioned will probably work pretty well for power, but be aware that's a lot of duration and it's going to idle quite rough and be a little soft at low rpms. If your car is an automatic, you'll need a loose torque converter to make good use of this cam. I'd be tempted to step the duration down a notch for both intake and exhaust, just because I worry that this cam is pushing the powerband into an area the heads simply can't support. However, I'm no expert on this stuff, so my message is to make sure you talk to folks who are, and who specialize in making useful power with a stock-headed big-inch engine.
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Old 11-06-2018, 09:39 PM
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IMO the stock 113 l89 heads don't work with the victor jr intake and your cam selection. You need higher flowing heads. Victor jr is not intended for under 3k cam 2200 both going over 6500. I don't see the stock heads working well. Eldebrock lists a victor jr head to go with intake...if you run stock heads i would pick a different intake
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Old 11-06-2018, 10:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Kevova View Post
IMO the stock 113 l89 heads don't work with the victor jr intake and your cam selection. You need higher flowing heads. Victor jr is not intended for under 3k cam 2200 both going over 6500. I don't see the stock heads working well. Eldebrock lists a victor jr head to go with intake...if you run stock heads i would pick a different intake
yea I knew that I was going to have to make the intake work for my heads, I have some other intakes that I might think about putting on it but that one is the one that I thought would make the best power because it is a single plane intake. Thanks for the feedback but I just donít have the budget right now for heads,I was thinking about doing a little bit of porting on my heads( nothing crazy just anough to make the gasket flush) do you think that would help a little bit? What stall would you recommend for it?
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Old 11-06-2018, 10:51 PM
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Originally Posted by MatthewMiller View Post
That's going to dictate everything, because those heads will be highly restrictive on a 383. You obviously won't need much lift, and if you plan to retain the stock valvetrain then you can't use too aggressive of a ramp rate. Overlap will probably help. That Lunati cam you mentioned will probably work pretty well for power, but be aware that's a lot of duration and it's going to idle quite rough and be a little soft at low rpms. If your car is an automatic, you'll need a loose torque converter to make good use of this cam. I'd be tempted to step the duration down a notch for both intake and exhaust, just because I worry that this cam is pushing the powerband into an area the heads simply can't support. However, I'm no expert on this stuff, so my message is to make sure you talk to folks who are, and who specialize in making useful power with a stock-headed big-inch engine.
yea I know I really do need heads but itís just not in the budget right now, do you think this cam would be good for my car and if I did decide to get head later then would this cam still work good with aftermarket heads?what stall converter would you recomend with my set up?
So just to sum up what you said is that it would be really slow at low rpms unless I got a stall converter and then that would help a little bit.
also I was thinking about doing a little porting on my heads to match up with the gasket, do you thing that will help out a little bit?
Thank you
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Old 11-06-2018, 11:44 PM
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The only 383 I ever built is running a 224/230 and it is a very tame setup in my opinion. You know it is cammed but it behaves well and pulls good all around. It's also in a 6000lb truck so...

These guys know what they're talking about.

Last edited by 84 4+3; 11-06-2018 at 11:44 PM.
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Old 11-06-2018, 11:53 PM
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So I didn't even think about the intake, but Kevova is right. I think the cross section of its runners will be too big for decent flow velocity with a carb. If you could get a Torker or Torker II it would probably work better with your stock heads.
Originally Posted by Lanceangle View Post
yea I know I really do need heads but itís just not in the budget right now, do you think this cam would be good for my car and if I did decide to get head later then would this cam still work good with aftermarket heads?what stall converter would you recomend with my set up?
So just to sum up what you said is that it would be really slow at low rpms unless I got a stall converter and then that would help a little bit.
also I was thinking about doing a little porting on my heads to match up with the gasket, do you thing that will help out a little bit?
Thank you
Eventually it would be nice to get better-flowing heads, sure. But I'm not saying it's impossible to use your stockers for now. I still think I'd try a shorter-duration cam lobe, though, unless you're shooting for 7000rpm or more. As a reference, my 396 (with very ported LT4 heads, equivalent to AFR 195 Comp heads) has a cam with only 218/224 duration with 108* LSA. It's not pulling hard past 6000rpm, but it's very strong in the midrange and still pulls up to 6k just due to the decent heads and short intake. It has a lope to the idle (due to the overlap), but it pulls well almost from off idle.

The problem with trying to get a cam that will work with both stock heads and aftermarket heads is that the aftermarket heads will make good use of a lot more lift than the stockers. But if you try to use a cam right now with lots of lift, you're going to need to get fancy with the valvetrain to keep things stable. You'd be financially better off with a cam that has less lift and more mild ramps so you can keep your valvetrain stock, and then save up for good heads and valvetrain pieces later and a cam that can take advantage of them. That's my only slightly educate opinion, at least.

Also, I don't have the knowledge to tell you what to expect with gasket-match porting. Sorry.
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Old 11-07-2018, 12:21 AM
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Originally Posted by MatthewMiller View Post
So I didn't even think about the intake, but Kevova is right. I think the cross section of its runners will be too big for decent flow velocity with a carb. If you could get a Torker or Torker II it would probably work better with your stock heads.

Eventually it would be nice to get better-flowing heads, sure. But I'm not saying it's impossible to use your stockers for now. I still think I'd try a shorter-duration cam lobe, though, unless you're shooting for 7000rpm or more. As a reference, my 396 (with very ported LT4 heads, equivalent to AFR 195 Comp heads) has a cam with only 218/224 duration with 108* LSA. It's not pulling hard past 6000rpm, but it's very strong in the midrange and still pulls up to 6k just due to the decent heads and short intake. It has a lope to the idle (due to the overlap), but it pulls well almost from off idle.

The problem with trying to get a cam that will work with both stock heads and aftermarket heads is that the aftermarket heads will make good use of a lot more lift than the stockers. But if you try to use a cam right now with lots of lift, you're going to need to get fancy with the valvetrain to keep things stable. You'd be financially better off with a cam that has less lift and more mild ramps so you can keep your valvetrain stock, and then save up for good heads and valvetrain pieces later and a cam that can take advantage of them. That's my only slightly educate opinion, at least.

Also, I don't have the knowledge to tell you what to expect with gasket-match porting. Sorry.
yea the intake is just one I had laying around, I have a performer RMP intake that I could use that has a better rpm range and I have a few more laying around that I can use. If you donít thing the Lunati cam would be a good one then could you maybe point me in the right direction for a cam I should get... like exactly what cam I should get.( just to reinsure itís a 383 with 10:1 compression, 1.6RRs,3.75 gears, stock heads, holly 750, and I have a few intakes laying around I can use and I can buy whatever stall converter I need.) again itís not like I donít have money to buy new heads but Iím only 17 years old and I donít think spending 1000+ dollars on some heads right now would be a good idea lol. So unless there are a good set of heads for very cheap then I think I will just stick with stick heads, what cam would you recommend exactly for a mostly drag and sometimes street car. Thank you so much for the help, you have no idea how much you have helped already.
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Old 11-07-2018, 12:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Lanceangle View Post

yea the intake is just one I had laying around, I have a performer RMP intake that I could use that has a better rpm range and I have a few more laying around that I can use. If you donít thing the Lunati cam would be a good one then could you maybe point me in the right direction for a cam I should get... like exactly what cam I should get.( just to reinsure itís a 383 with 10:1 compression, 1.6RRs,3.75 gears, stock heads, holly 750, and I have a few intakes laying around I can use and I can buy whatever stall converter I need.) again itís not like I donít have money to buy new heads but Iím only 17 years old and I donít think spending 1000+ dollars on some heads right now would be a good idea lol. So unless there are a good set of heads for very cheap then I think I will just stick with stick heads, what cam would you recommend exactly for a mostly drag and sometimes street car. Thank you so much for the help, you have no idea how much you have helped already.
I wish I had an encyclopedic knowledge of the parts out there like some others do. That said, I looked up your quoted cam and there are two interesting things about. First, the LSA on the Lunati site is 112, not 110. Also, their advertised duration is not as high as I was expecting: only 278/288. For a 383 with stock heads, that might not be a bad choice. It's clearly intended for stock heads, given the "Retro-Fit" moniker and the low lift, and they quote a speed range of 2000-6400. I sort of assume they mean that for a 350, so it would be a bit lower for a 383.

If I were you, I'd call Lunati and ask them a few questions. First, tell them your parameters (383, stock heads and valvetrain, could get new t/c, your max desired rpm, etc.), and ask them if this cam makes sense for your build. Will they endorse it for your stock valve springs and rockers? What do they recommend? The other obvious one to consider is the [color=justify=#000000]20120120, which is very close in advertised duration and lift, but significantly less on duration at .050". It would have less overlap and a better idle, but it might be too little to let a 383 breathe above 5000rpm.[/color]
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Old 11-07-2018, 12:45 AM
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If youre keeping the stock heads make sure you put the right springs in, very important. May as well do seals too, they are easy and cheap
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Old 11-07-2018, 01:02 AM
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Originally Posted by MatthewMiller View Post
I wish I had an encyclopedic knowledge of the parts out there like some others do. That said, I looked up your quoted cam and there are two interesting things about. First, the LSA on the Lunati site is 112, not 110. Also, their advertised duration is not as high as I was expecting: only 278/288. For a 383 with stock heads, that might not be a bad choice. It's clearly intended for stock heads, given the "Retro-Fit" moniker and the low lift, and they quote a speed range of 2000-6400. I sort of assume they mean that for a 350, so it would be a bit lower for a 383.

If I were you, I'd call Lunati and ask them a few questions. First, tell them your parameters (383, stock heads and valvetrain, could get new t/c, your max desired rpm, etc.), and ask them if this cam makes sense for your build. Will they endorse it for your stock valve springs and rockers? What do they recommend? The other obvious one to consider is the [color=justify=#000000]20120120, which is very close in advertised duration and lift, but significantly less on duration at .050". It would have less overlap and a better idle, but it might be too little to let a 383 breathe above 5000rpm.[/color]
idk if you looked it up wrong but the 20120121 cam is 110lsa, not 112. I called summit and this is the cam they recommended for my application but I think that would be a great idea to call Lunati, Iíll do that tomarrow and see what they have to say. I just want somthing that is going to sound amazing but also be able to proform well and make some good power. Thank you
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Old 11-07-2018, 01:04 AM
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Originally Posted by cuisinartvette View Post
If youre keeping the stock heads make sure you put the right springs in, very important. May as well do seals too, they are easy and cheap
yea the springs Lunati sells work for my heads, the part number is 73943-16
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Old 11-07-2018, 09:47 AM
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With a carb you will most likely need a hood scoop. Wiend Xcelerator would be a good choice for single plane and stock heads. IMO a dual plane such as Z28 , performer RPM, or similar might be better ...you need to think and how to deal with hole in hood. If you're running A4 2800 stall with lock up. You will need additional transmission cooler, I would get one with the cooling fan made to it. You need governor calibrated to allow WOT shift at 5000-5500 RPM.
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Old 11-07-2018, 09:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Kevova View Post
With a carb you will most likely need a hood scoop. Wiend Xcelerator would be a good choice for single plane and stock heads. IMO a dual plane such as Z28 , performer RPM, or similar might be better ...you need to think and how to deal with hole in hood. If you're running A4 2800 stall with lock up. You will need additional transmission cooler, I would get one with the cooling fan made to it. You need governor calibrated to allow WOT shift at 5000-5500 RPM.
yea in hoping i don't need a hole in the hood, i can try to drop the engine lower down or get a differant. intake or something like that, ill have to figure something out but i knew i was going to have to get a trans cooler and stuff like that, how do you calibrate the governer? do you think there is a youtube video or something i can watch? im not going to push the car that hard because i know the dana 36 cant really hold the power and stuff like that( I have a spare Dana 36 just Incase lol) thank you
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Old 11-07-2018, 10:33 AM
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D36 will hang for a while if you avoid slicks. B&M sells a governor recalibration kit. Xcelerator will be close pad is at 4 inches hood clearance is I will guess is 10 inches. TPI is 9-9.5 inches high. Still after carb is intalled there still needs room for the air filter.
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