Krusty84

Mike, since you are tuning your own, what size injectors are you running and what is your max duty cycle? Should be able to ballpark your rwhp from that.

I was doing the BSFC calculations on my car. I have 42 lb injectors and was told the injectors were at 72%. That puts me in the 401-446 rwhp range. Hoping with the new exhaust and CAI that the tuner can grab some more POWA.

Mike Holmen

Hard to say exactly, I can't remember 100% I think I'm in the mid 60 to 70's, running EV6 42lbs LS3 injector

Rlane5, I'm running a ebay special pressure regulator 3/8in supply line and 3/8 return. I run my fuel pressure at 60psi, with a vaccum port to increase pressure for driving around town. I find I have to run two different tunes one for when I unplug the vaccum port to the pressure regulator or one when I have it hooked up.

Here is a picture I took yesterday, my air intake hoses are getto for now. The turbo is Borg Warner S480 (80mm inducer) and 96mm inducer on a 1.32 T-6 housing. Would make for one heck of a strong set-up. I wouldn't run this turbo, I would run one that has the tial housing turbine volute and a different compressor housing. It will fits in there pretty decently, just would have to modify a few things.

vermatrix

So being that a 383 is 6.27 Liters Displacement, why would you want to switch to a 6.0 instead of just building out the 383 more?

I thought in the end, Cubic Inches were what mattered?

Pwnage1337

Because I should be able to boost an LS block without it shitting it's parts all over the highway. It was either aftermarket Gen 1 block, or LS. Aftermarket blocks are $2000+

I also think that the LS has more aftermarket development happening

vermatrix

Yeah that would SUCK.

JoeNova

With boost? No.

Krusty84

419.5 rwhp 409.5 rwtq

They said their tune only grabbed another 10rwhp or so but they broadened the area under the curve quite a bit. I feel pretty satisfied with the expenditure considering they fixed all of the issues I had. I have a solid 850 rpm idle now (they said the previous owner turned off the idle learning), E-Fans on at ~195° instead of ~215°, corrected the tach signal so now it is perfect (it was off by 10% and very slow before), removed the top speed limiter and fixed a surging/sputtering issue when hanging in RPMs like on an on-ramp or lining up for a roll race. They made more power but were getting into knock retard so they brought it back down into a safe zone. All in all, pretty good for what they called a "baby cam" (TFS-30602002 220/224 .575/.575 112 LSA).

Pwnage, you ought to do pretty well with your setup, even through that 4L80E.

Pwnage1337

Awesome!!

I really need to get my *** in gear - I have this weekend off so I will get the block loaded up and on its merry way to machine shop city for cleaning and bore roundness check.

That's really going to determine my next move - if I need to bore, I am going to buy a rod/piston combo. Looks like Tick Performance has a decent deal right now, around $1200 for Wiseco's and K1 6.125" rods, or for another $100 I can grab Callies rods and diamond pistons with the L92 (LS3/2.165") valve reliefs, at a 4.005" bore. Strangely enough they don't offer the same piston in a 4.030 bore? I'm sure it can be custom ordered.

Anyone ever run a 1.8 rocker on the LS3 style engine? Curious if I'd run into P to V issues, the L92 valve reliefs would help. It would put my cam around .660 lift. Would the extra lift be worth it?

I still have to buy rockers so at this point its up in the air. 1.8 seems like an aggressive rocker ratio, and maybe not worth the money.

Krusty84

I think 1.8s are more for the stock cam guys that don't want to do a cam but want an extra 10-20 hp. I was interested in 1.8s too but I kept reading that aftermarket cam lobes are too aggressive for them and most manufacturers recommend against their use and to stick with 1.7s to avoid lifter and spring failures.

Mike Holmen

I second Krusty opinion, your just going to ask for more issues with P-V, springs and lifter.

Pwnage, curious if your planning on getting the block cylinders decked? Helps with getting the top of the block flat and true. The fresh surface is also bonus for boost usage. You going to run head studs as well? If you going to use arp main studs, get the mains aligned honed with the ARP mains torqued up to the ARP spec.

When you get the cylinders bores, get them to put a slight chamfer on the cylinder top/deck area? Helps to prevent breakage of the piston rings during install. What head gasket did you purchase?

I would ask the camshaft manufacturer how much P-V clearance they expect with your combo, you may have to get extra deep valve reliefs. Wow .660 is a lots of lift. I would definitely do a bunch of measuring using mock-up valve springs and a piston (without rings) during the cam install. I have used an old head gasket similar to what your going to use and torqued the head studs up.

JoeNova

I'd skip the ARP mains, the chamfer on the cylinders, and the 1.8:1 ratio rockers.
-ARP main studs aren't an issue until after you cross that 1000 ft-lb mark, and even then, failure rates are EXTREMELY low.
-Summit sells machined aluminum piston ring installers in the exact bore you need for CHEAP. No point in chamfering bores so that you have an easier time using a junk worm clamp ring compressor
-Lift isn't nearly as important with boost as it is N/A. I've crossed the 1000/1000 mark with less than .600 lift on a smaller engine.

Mike Holmen

I've used the fancy ring installer tools and broke rings. Just passing also what I would do. I would also skip the ARP main studs, way over kill but I figured I throw that out there.

Pwnage1337

Thanks for the input guys. The cam is around .630 lift with a 1.7 rocker, so there's still a fair amount of lift there.

Spending tomorrow in the shop, getting some **** done! I'll update thread tomorrow.

Jeremy

Pwnage1337

Gonna take this little piggy to the machine shop tomorrow

Krusty84

Any word from the machine shop? You need to take that block to 4.065" !!!!

Pwnage1337

The machine shop stated that the block only needs to go .010 over in order to have a good wall.

I'm going to take it .030 over, because I can't find any pistons with a LS3 valve relief in under a 4.030 bore. Should help with valve shrouding vs the cylinder wall too.

I'm not going to 4.065" lol this thing needs to see boost eventually.

Ordering up pistons/rods soon!

Jeremy

Mike Holmen

Pwnaga, curious if your planning on sending in your crank in for polishing/cleaning up as well? It makes the crank look like new again and removes any material build-up on the crank

Pwnage1337

Since I'm going to run new pistons/rods, yes I'm going to have the crank polished. If I was going to get away with the old pistons/rods I was going to just run the bitch.

Pwnage1337

Pistons/Rods on the way!

Went with Callies Compstar 6.125" rods. H beam.

Pistons are Diamond with LS3 valve reliefs, .030 over. Going to get them to the machinist as soon as they show up so he can bore my block.

Krusty84

Nice!

So flat tops? Keeping the compression up?