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I have a .020 LQ4 that was a Jasper rebuilt Engine, I brought about 5 years ago from someone that wrecked their truck. It had cast iron heads and a long crankshaft. I hit a curb and knock a big hole in the oil pan and put a regrind short crank and flat top pistons in it
5.3 Ported Heads (706)
Summit Cam 226/226 .598/.598 lift 111
Morel lifters
Summit Trunnion Upgrade
42 lbs. injectors
Edelbrock 92 mm TB (ported)
Fast 92 mm Intake (ported)
Summit harmonic balancer
Dana 44 (3.45)
TCI 2800-3000 stall
700R4 Trans ( I rebuilt myself)
Melrose Headers
Aeromotive Fuel Pump
Aeromotive Regulator
I had a Ported LS2 intake, and 32 lbs. injectors the TB wasn't ported, and a Walbro fuel pump at one time and the car ran the same exact Et. and MPH
Randy
pwnage, Man those heads look sweet, good job buying the texas speed stuff. What camshaft did you buy? You gonna do a complete rebuild and build a 408 or larger
pwnage, Man those heads look sweet, good job buying the texas speed stuff. What camshaft did you buy? You gonna do a complete rebuild and build a 408 or larger
It's a custom grind specd by Pat G, ground at TSP.
Plan right now is to hopefully run this stock shortblock. Down the road I'd like to go 370/408 when the lil turbos come into play but that's like 5 years away
Last edited by Pwnage1337; 12-10-2018 at 06:55 PM.
I shed the car of a lot of unnecessary (imo) **** a while back. Charcoal canister, all the AIR system stuff, the factory wiring. The 80e that's in the car probably added all the weight right back lol
well the torque converter probably weighs 25 lbs more too. Being significantly larger though it sure makes it more awkward to move around.
I bought a 9.5 converter so I think it's probably lighter or equal to the weight of the 700r4 converter. It was just a stock converter. Keeping it cool is a challenge when running hard.
Thanks for the tip on the oil pump. I've heard all the "O-Ring Horror Stories" on Ls1Tech.
Anyone think the oil filter is an issue on these engines?
I notice our LS vehicles actually run better after an oil change, and I fixed a friend's LS pickup the other day with an oil change.
At idle it would drop pressure intermittently. It didn't have 3K on the oil and filter in the truck. We swapped the sensor and no change. Then it started clicking at idle when this would happen.
An oil change fixed it..
Anybody else notice strangeness here? If it's an issue for a street vehicle it will certainly be bad to a hot rod.
Anyone think the oil filter is an issue on these engines?
I notice our LS vehicles actually run better after an oil change, and I fixed a friend's LS pickup the other day with an oil change.
At idle it would drop pressure intermittently. It didn't have 3K on the oil and filter in the truck. We swapped the sensor and no change. Then it started clicking at idle when this would happen.
An oil change fixed it..
Anybody else notice strangeness here? If it's an issue for a street vehicle it will certainly be bad to a hot rod.
That's generally symptoms of the pump bypass getting stuck. At least in my experience.
Hey Krusty, is your car weighs 3140lbs with you in the car or are you out of the vehicle?
I was not in the car.
It had about 5-6 gallons of gas in it and a qt of Mobil 1, a large can of fix-a-flat, and a mini lithium battery jump starter in the passenger side cubby.
The car has a red top Optima in the driver side cubby.
The car is missing a few items:
- no radio
- no rear speakers
- no A/C lines (all other HVAC stuff is intact)
- no carpeted under dash panels.
- and the original gauge cluster and radio console area have been swapped out to the aftermarket sheet metal pieces.
Other than that the car still has everything else, power windows/locks/hatch, retractable cargo cover, carpet and padding, power driver's seat.... etc.. etc..
That is with an chromoly 8.50 cert cage, full 10lb nitrous bottle, 5 gallons of fuel, engine full of oil water ect... and a 25lb lead weight bar in the front cross member.
My power windows, mirrors, lights ect all still work. Stock body pannels, including the hood and all glass. Stock interior including the dash and carpet but lighter Kirkey racing seats. I have removed all the heater/AC stuff, radio, speakers, amps, power antenna and related wiring. Engine compartment harness has been minimized. Stock fuel tank has been removed and 5 gallon fuel cell installed. I do have a bigger aftermarket 3 row alum radiator. I also have at least 100lbs of stainless braided hoses on the car for the fuel and nitrous systems.
There is still more weight coming off soon. I am going to cut the front of frame off in front of the A-Arms/K Member and tube it with 1.5" chromoly. Get rid of the factory radiator shroud and fan, inner fenders... Maybe some lightweight hoses for the fuel system. I would also really like to get that VFN sunnoco hood, some light fiberglass bumper covers and the 5 Star lexan rear hatch glass. Prob be in the 2700ish with all that, but I have to weigh 3,00lbs with driver so additional weight loss has been on the back burner.
Will
Anyone think the oil filter is an issue on these engines?
I notice our LS vehicles actually run better after an oil change, and I fixed a friend's LS pickup the other day with an oil change.
At idle it would drop pressure intermittently. It didn't have 3K on the oil and filter in the truck. We swapped the sensor and no change. Then it started clicking at idle when this would happen.
An oil change fixed it..
Anybody else notice strangeness here? If it's an issue for a street vehicle it will certainly be bad to a hot rod.
I have a 2006 denali xl with the lq4 (possible the last year of the denali xl was an lq9 im not sure).
It has, 400000 klms, 248000 miles. Its my family mover and when i bought the car 50000 miles ago i started using quaker state "defy" which is now called "high mileage". I have always used fram or whatever other filters are available. the vehicle always ran very well never skipped a beat. the magnetic plug has a very fine paste, about 1/4 the size of a pinky finger nail every oil change.
then on a very cold day, -30 celsius, -22 F, it was parked for about 12 hours and when i started it, the low oil pressure light came on. The engine did not sound any different but i turned it off right away. turned it on and off a few times and it would build no pressure. i was a 4 hour drive deep into the rocky mountains on boxing day. with the whole family. no cell phone service. i had just joined this forum and had started learning about engines and i decided to go with what my ears heard, which was zero issues, other than the incessant beeping from the low oil pressure warning. loaded the family in the car, took off down the highway and drove for about 2 minutes with the beeping going like crazy. I decided to punch the throttle and jack the revs and suddenly the pressure jumped up to the half way point and the beeping stopped.
got home and bought a new oil pressure sensor and swapped it out. still when i started the engine it would start with zero oil pressure and then slowwwwwwwwly build pressure. If i goosed the throttle it was like something that was stopping the pressure from building would adjust its position and suddenly the pressure would be normal.
then i realized i had used el cheapo oil and a wix filter for the first time ever. normally i used high mileage quakerstate which i started to think might have some swellers. then i hit the web and learned about the o-ring.
i dropped the oil, replaced the filter with a fram and the oil with quakerstate defy (high mileage) started the vehicle and the pressure climbed up slowly and held.
I have driven the vehcile another 30k miles since then, no issues. towed heavy boats and never had any issues.
never did figure out what the true cause was, but i suspect the oring.
Last edited by VikingTrad3r; 12-11-2018 at 03:40 PM.
I have a 2006 denali xl with the lq4 (possible the last year of the denali xl was an lq9 im not sure).
It has, 400000 klms, 248000 miles. Its my family mover and when i bought the car 50000 miles ago i started using quaker state "defy" which is now called "high mileage". I have always used fram or whatever other filters are available. the vehicle always ran very well never skipped a beat. the magnetic plug has a very fine paste, about 1/4 the size of a pinky finger nail every oil change.
then on a very cold day, -30 celsius, -22 F, it was parked for about 12 hours and when i started it, the low oil pressure light came on. The engine did not sound any different but i turned it off right away. turned it on and off a few times and it would build no pressure. i was a 4 hour drive deep into the rocky mountains on boxing day. with the whole family. no cell phone service. i had just joined this forum and had started learning about engines and i decided to go with what my ears heard, which was zero issues, other than the incessant beeping from the low oil pressure warning. loaded the family in the car, took off down the highway and drove for about 2 minutes with the beeping going like crazy. I decided to punch the throttle and jack the revs and suddenly the pressure jumped up to the half way point and the beeping stopped.
got home and bought a new oil pressure sensor and swapped it out. still when i started the engine it would start with zero oil pressure and then slowwwwwwwwly build pressure. If i goosed the throttle it was like something that was stopping the pressure from building would adjust its position and suddenly the pressure would be normal.
then i realized i had used el cheapo oil and a wix filter for the first time ever. normally i used high mileage quakerstate which i started to think might have some swellers. then i hit the web and learned about the o-ring.
i dropped the oil, replaced the filter with a fram and the oil with quakerstate defy (high mileage) started the vehicle and the pressure climbed up slowly and held.
I have driven the vehcile another 30k miles since then, no issues. towed heavy boats and never had any issues.
never did figure out what the true cause was, but i suspect the oring.
That is exactly what our LQ4 did but it would start at 15psi or so then slowly drop. The alarm stayed off as long as you were moving and then it would suddenly come off once you were at operating temp. We replaced the oil pump with a stock unit and had solid 65 psi hot idle for a few years and now it is starting to do the same thing again. Since it is a fleet vehicle it gets serviced at the local jiffy lube but they (supposedly) put in the mobil 1 for us. Judging by the other shady things I have seen them do in the past that may or may not be the case. The used to have you come into the service bay because they added the mobil 1 from a box and let you watch but that isn't the case anymore so who knows. Truck has 220k hard, hard miles on it and if you get on it it still pegs 80 psi so I would guess it is otherwise healthy. But oil pressure isn't the only metric if you even consider it one at all.
12-09-2018, 07:19 PM
