Help needed C4 will start and die sometimes and is hard to put into gears
12-09-2018, 03:15 PM
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Help needed C4 will start and die sometimes and is hard to put into gears
I have just bought a 1987 Corvette and it will start and run beautiful but sometimes it will start and run smoothly for only a second and die it only has 85,000 miles. The transmission is the Doug Nash 4+3 and it won’t go into gear when car is running but will if it is off
12-10-2018, 08:10 AM
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12-10-2018, 03:18 PM
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I have just bought a 1987 Corvette and it will start and run beautiful but sometimes it will start and run smoothly for only a second and die it only has 85,000 miles. The transmission is the Doug Nash 4+3 and it won’t go into gear when car is running but will if it is off
12-10-2018, 04:18 PM
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yes that’s exactly what it does would it be best to have some one sit in the car and put it on a two post and bleed it that way?
12-10-2018, 04:26 PM
#7
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Bleed via the valve or you can take the cap off the master cylinder and pump the clutch around a thousand times. Both two person jobs. I would try the latter first.
with the cap off, have someone watch the fluid level as someone else keeps hitting the clutch pedal. Air bubbles mean its bleeding. You will need to lift the car front/back and continue to get some more air out. It will take time but only difficulty is the foot motion. Clutch pedal should start to firm up but will take like 50 motions
otherwise that valve is opening to vacuum and pump and fill the level. Once that valve is open though, air WILL get in so you're committed.
good luck
with the cap off, have someone watch the fluid level as someone else keeps hitting the clutch pedal. Air bubbles mean its bleeding. You will need to lift the car front/back and continue to get some more air out. It will take time but only difficulty is the foot motion. Clutch pedal should start to firm up but will take like 50 motions
otherwise that valve is opening to vacuum and pump and fill the level. Once that valve is open though, air WILL get in so you're committed.
good luck
12-11-2018, 11:24 AM
#8
Melting Slicks
If the problem is air in the clutch hydraulics, pumping the clutch pedal repeatedly will probably/eventually get the air out. But I have found it easier and faster to push the pedal down all the way, hold it down for 30 seconds, and then let the pedal snap back up -- I used a side-stepping technique. You are looking for a banging action rather than a smooth action. (That's what she said.) Just my $0.02
Otherwise you may have a fault/leak in the clutch master or slave cylinder.
Otherwise you may have a fault/leak in the clutch master or slave cylinder.
12-12-2018, 08:05 AM
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If the problem is air in the clutch hydraulics, pumping the clutch pedal repeatedly will probably/eventually get the air out. But I have found it easier and faster to push the pedal down all the way, hold it down for 30 seconds, and then let the pedal snap back up -- I used a side-stepping technique. You are looking for a banging action rather than a smooth action. (That's what she said.) Just my $0.02
Otherwise you may have a fault/leak in the clutch master or slave cylinder.
Otherwise you may have a fault/leak in the clutch master or slave cylinder.
12-12-2018, 08:50 AM
#10
Melting Slicks
You can try the Clutch Snap and Hope for the Bests, but in the end the Bleeder on the 87 with a 4+3 is on top of the Slave so raise the Car up Have someone Pump & Hold Crack the Bleeder a few Times, or even push the Clutch back against the slave and push Fluid & Air back to the Master. But if you still have a problem after you feel it is bled, I would look toward either the Clutch Master is Stroking Thru a bit or slave leaking but that would be 1 Big leak at slave.
Also what's the History on the Clutch has it ever been Done, and is the Effort to push Down peddle very High, C-4s do have a Heavy Clutch but not Unreasonable.
Also what's the History on the Clutch has it ever been Done, and is the Effort to push Down peddle very High, C-4s do have a Heavy Clutch but not Unreasonable.
Last edited by s carter; 12-12-2018 at 09:00 AM.
12-12-2018, 04:14 PM
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You can try the Clutch Snap and Hope for the Bests, but in the end the Bleeder on the 87 with a 4+3 is on top of the Slave so raise the Car up Have someone Pump & Hold Crack the Bleeder a few Times, or even push the Clutch back against the slave and push Fluid & Air back to the Master. But if you still have a problem after you feel it is bled, I would look toward either the Clutch Master is Stroking Thru a bit or slave leaking but that would be 1 Big leak at slave.
Also what's the History on the Clutch has it ever been Done, and is the Effort to push Down peddle very High, C-4s do have a Heavy Clutch but not Unreasonable.
Also what's the History on the Clutch has it ever been Done, and is the Effort to push Down peddle very High, C-4s do have a Heavy Clutch but not Unreasonable.
12-12-2018, 04:28 PM
#12
Melting Slicks
If it's like stepping on a Sponge You Have air. the Clutch Peddle should kind like the Leg Press at the Gym with About 50 Lbs. Not HARD but Not Limp..
12-12-2018, 04:35 PM
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it’s no where near what you’re what you’re saying so when I get time Friday I’ll let you know know how it goes I appreciate the feedback from everyone and when I bleed it should I crack it have them push the clutch and then shut it then they let off the clutch and repeat until the air is gone?
12-12-2018, 04:43 PM
#14
Melting Slicks
it’s no where near what you’re what you’re saying so when I get time Friday I’ll let you know know how it goes I appreciate the feedback from everyone and when I bleed it should I crack it have them push the clutch and then shut it then they let off the clutch and repeat until the air is gone?
Last edited by s carter; 12-12-2018 at 05:12 PM.
12-12-2018, 08:10 PM
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They Press & Hold, You Crack it Spits You Close Quickly What Does Matter is that You are Closed before they Release, otherwise it can Back Draw. I like for the final opening of the bleeder to close while there is still Pressure in the system and a solid stream is flowing.
12-13-2018, 05:35 PM
#16
Safety Car
In regards to the not starting sometimes and running other times you will want to check the following things. I would look at your engines Temperature Sensors (mine has two, one for gauge one for ECM. If the ECM one is not sending the correct readings it cause problems with starting. What happens sometimes is that the sensors will fail and send erroneous data to the ECM. If the ECM thinks it is 10 degree F it will flood the car potentially where if the sensor went bad the other way the car will think it is trying to operate at 200+ degree which would not be good.
The second thing you might want to check is the fuel pressure that the car is running as it is critical to a good performing Corvette. Is the car displaying any codes? This is something you can check using a paperclip for the adventurous types, a code reader will work better and the best is a software that allows you to monitor the car while it is running. There are many ways depending on your budget.
If this car is new to you one of the most important second purchases is a full set of the Factory Service Manuals, in 1988 they had two books, one the main one is the car mechanically, the second book is about the electrical and electronic systems of the Corvette. Is is very important to get your specific year as they made changes to the Corvette regularly. Without the FSM taking care of a Corvette is a very expensive. These cars are getting old fast and they require more maintenance than your average grocery getter. After the manuals I would suggest a "Fuel Pressure Gauge" and maybe a decent Multi-meter.
Corvettes are a great hobby! I hope that you get your issues sorted out quickly, looks like you are well on the way regarding the clutch issue!
I wish you a very Merry Christmas and a New Year full of Wonderful Experiences with your Corvette!
The second thing you might want to check is the fuel pressure that the car is running as it is critical to a good performing Corvette. Is the car displaying any codes? This is something you can check using a paperclip for the adventurous types, a code reader will work better and the best is a software that allows you to monitor the car while it is running. There are many ways depending on your budget.
If this car is new to you one of the most important second purchases is a full set of the Factory Service Manuals, in 1988 they had two books, one the main one is the car mechanically, the second book is about the electrical and electronic systems of the Corvette. Is is very important to get your specific year as they made changes to the Corvette regularly. Without the FSM taking care of a Corvette is a very expensive. These cars are getting old fast and they require more maintenance than your average grocery getter. After the manuals I would suggest a "Fuel Pressure Gauge" and maybe a decent Multi-meter.
Corvettes are a great hobby! I hope that you get your issues sorted out quickly, looks like you are well on the way regarding the clutch issue!
I wish you a very Merry Christmas and a New Year full of Wonderful Experiences with your Corvette!