Miket440

Trying to bring my Vette back to life after sitting 15 plus years. It has 120k on it but its been kept inside so its in good shape except for the paint and a crack in the glass top. So far did all the fluids, compression check seems great, while changing the trans fluid I fixed the busted pass through connector on the overdrive, replaced all intake gaskets, new plugs wires all the normal things. The rack was leaking bad so had it rebuilt by Corvette central. Got new PS pump and hoses as well. Went to install the pump and noticed the water pump was leaking so got a new Flow kooler pump. I then went to change the fuel filter and get the old gas emptied out of the tank and found the fuel pump was dead. Got an ACdelco replacement pump. The fuel pump comes with a piece of hose to replace the pulsator should I use it or put the pulsator back on?
So at this point I am looking for advice as to anything I should be aware of or do before I attempt to start her up.

billschroeder5842

Sounds like you are getting after it. Let 'er rip.

Make sure to check your brakes before you drive. New fluid is a must.

xrav22

this is my fuel pump it works great.

95LT1ZF

Looking forward to seeing this thing run. How much do you think you'll end up spending before you crank her up for the first time? Looking to do the same to an IROC that has been sitting just as long.

playsdixie

ditch the pulsator....just use one length of hose....usually provided in the kits.....

ctmccloskey

After fifteen years I would suggest that you pull the spark plugs and squirt a ounce or so of motor oil in each cylinder and if can remove the distributor and prime the oil pump. It appears that the you have done your homework getting a lot of parts and work on the Corvette already. If you can't you can't, but the car would sure like avoiding a complete dry start, it might last longer especially after so long a period of time.

What was said above by Bill Schroeder 5842 is absolutely right about the brake fluid flush! After 15 years you will be lucky to have pressure at all in the brakes. After a couple years of storage I got ready and started the car, it started and my foot went right to floor as my line had rusted through near the ABS box in the rear of the car. After hundreds of dollars and hours I learned about C4 Brakes.

When the engines starts, resist the urge, do not rev it up, let the oil "flow" and "pressurize" the system. I keep a can of Ether around as the last resort in case it cranks very long. I also like a couple Fire Extinguishers when starting a car that has sat for any long period.

A lot of us skip the pulsator but be careful that you buy the fuel injection hose that is designed specifically for "submersion" in fuels.

Good Luck! I would also like to wish you you a Merry Christmas and wonderful New Year!

Miket440

Will do on changing the brake fluid. I just got the fuel pump alone. My sender seems to be in good shape. It has an Ohm range of 5-103 I would think thats close enough. At this point I have a little under a grand in parts. There were other parts I have replaced like the clutch master & slave, sway bar bushings and links, pretty much anything I all ready would be taking off. Ok, ill leave the pulsator off and see what kind of noise I hear after I get it started. A week or two before I did the compression test I squirted oil in all cylinders. When I cranked the motor it spun smoothly. The compression #'s I got were a little high, 180 something in all eight, but I figured the oil in the cylinders was the cause. After the second compression test turning it over with starter I had 60 lb of oil pressure according to gauge on dash. Yes fire extinguisher, it will be right next to me when I FIRE HER UP. Thanks for the input and Ill let you know what happens.

aklim

Get the install kit from Racetronix. SS bolts and a new gasket will be helpful. You also have the right type of fuel hose (submersible rated) and the price is decent. Since it is provided already, might as well keep it.

Treat it as a "New to you" old car. If it flows, it goes. No fluid left behind. I just used ether to start a power washer with almost a year old gas. Smells like turpentine on the plug. New gas and it still didn't start because the turpentine had to be flushed out of the carb bowl. Used ether to get it going again and again till the fresh gas got to the cylinders.

I usually change brake fluid every other year but in your case, I'd do it again a year later.

vermatrix

I would recommend you pull the carpet up in a couple of random spots and check for moisture buildup. That is a LONG time to be sitting, even if in a garage. Also pull your intake apart and check your voids around your wheel wells for little critter corpses and nests. These things might sound silly, but I know from experience they can be problem makers if not addressed.

Vettenut1985

Miket440

I finally got around to getting the rest of the parts back on the car and she fired right up. After a minute or two, idle just fine. Had a few leaks which are now taken care of but before taking her down from the stands it looks like I need to figure out why neither of the fans are coming on. Temp gets to 230 and nothing, I turned on A/C and nothing. I guess ill start with easy stuff first. Any suggestions on diagnosing?

playsdixie

there are relays for both fans.....to test them, find the green wire coming out to the fan. from the relay.......grounding it should turn either fan on.....if they work, starting looking backwards....to the relays....I have my aux fan hot wired(actually cold grounded),,,to a switch which is grounded in my dash....otherwise it won't turn on until it's really hot....forgot the temp...238 I think.....Actually really never use the aux fan, I'm in s florida and turning it on never seems to make much difference....My temps never go over 200 even in traffic on hot days so it's kind of useless....just never seems to bring any temp down.....A lot of 85's don't have them and they run fine.....

Miket440

Well after trying to figure out my "no cooling fans" issue. I have found 1. The fans are good. 2.The fuse is good. 3. The relays are good. 4. No fan comes on when A/C is switched on. 5. The main fan comes on when I connect A and B on the ALDL. Not sure where to go from here. Anybody got any ideas?

Miket440

Thanks , I was able to find the relays and test them. they seem to be working. I would like to lower the temp of when the Aux fan comes on. I read somewhere you can get a lower temp temp sensor.

BlowerWorks

If you pull the plugs and pull the injector fuses and put a little oil in each cylinder then use the starter to crank the engine until you see oil pressure.

Mostmint

I had quite a time finding a break in the wire between the ECTS and the ECU but that was the other way - my fan was always on.

However I studied these circuits quite a bit in my 89 (please remember this for all my comments there is a lot of variation year to year). It has separate sensors for the gauge and the ECU. Is it possible the gauge is reading incorrectly and it's not up to 230 yet?

As far as A/C the default on all the switches is closed (three of them), if any of them are open that is a signal to turn on the fan. I had one that had failed and the fan would then be on. To bypass the A/C circuit I just grounded out the wire (building a race car don't need A/C decisions confusing the ECU). Does the A/C actually work?

Other suggestions to your general question: all the rubber in your fuel line is now 34 years old - that has to hold 40 psi and failure could dump gas on hot exhaust. Rubber brake lines should also be replaced (I use 15 years as a guideline on this). At this age I would also be concerned about the oil pressure sensor being brittle, mine leaked oil from the inside when I started it (could have been gorillas in there before me) but also read about another person having same problem. Tires - sorry missed if you replaced these but 15 year old rubber is hard and will not grip nearly as well as new tires. I work for a tire company, and I try very hard not to run tires more than 5-6 years old.

3D-Aircrew

One thing to check is the ECM for codes. If there are none then the SES light will blink 12's three in a row then pause and another 3 in a row. It could be why your fans aren't coming on.

playsdixie

jump 'A' and B on your aldl....