KJL

There are lots of folks who sell seals for C4s. I am looking to replace the front roof A-Pillar and rear hatch seals. I am looking for high quality materials and fit.......if possible.
Thanks!

VikingTrad3r

Moved-To-TN

I am in the same boat with my 85 Want Quality replacement weatherstrip and trying to understand options Have you made a decision yet and how did it go.

Dredgeguy

I second Corvette Rubber Co

kenmohr

Just used them on a pillar. Worked out well so far. Haven't been caught in the rain yet too busy snowing.

KJL

Moved-To-TN

I really need the back hatch seal mine is missing a piece I see CRC has made a better hatch seal now its about double the price of a cheap ebay seal but should be better this is the only problem buying stuff like this online you cant feel the quality before you buy.

KJL

TorchTarga94

I've got new CRC B-Pillar weather strip for sale never installed if interested. Bought it from Wilcox but never used.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ilcox-crc.html

Moved-To-TN

Looks like CRC is the way to go but everything I have read says to do it on a hot day and let the seal set in the sun, so that puts this project off for awhile. if you do yours let us know I it went. Thanks.

KJL

I installed the seal today. It was the windshield header and side frame seal. I purchased from Willcox and it was made by CRC. The seal fit very well. Even had the plastic "L" shaped pieces molded into the corners. The plastic push pins I also purchased were a bit too small. Try to save the originals. Use the 3M Black weatherstrip adhesive. Not sure if it is a good idea to use it along the full length. I Googled and saw several different ways to use the adhesive. I wish they made an adhesive that took about 30 minutes to set up and allowed time to position the seal. Can't make any mistakes with contact adhesive. I installed the corners first and then the header piece and then the sides. Came out OK. I think I still need to adjust the windows a tad.

Looks like the factory application just had this black tacky stuff that never sets up completely at just the corners and ends. I left most of it in place as it seemed pointless to remove. The biggest issue I had was that black plastic coating they use on all the tracks and trim peeled off in areas while I was cleaning the tracks. Probably will need to paint it some. I also used some black silicone sealant between the windshield and windshield trim which is a potential leak area and the same along the header gasket track. Water can get between the seal and under the track that it is mounted in. I suspect my windshield was replaced and some of these trim pieces were not properly sealed when re-installed. I also used Krytox to protect the new seal. The only potential leak that I can see is the driver side window needs to raise up just a tad more. Not sure if I can adjust for window travel.

kenmohr

Finished the B pillar and roof. All went well, no wind noise looks great. CRC from Wilcox and happy.

KJL

After driving in a few rain storms, still have a leak but I have no idea where it is coming from from. It seems to be traveling down the pillar. It drips out from behind the plastic trim piece on the sides of the dash panel where the fuse box cover is on the passenger side and the solid piece is on the driver side between the dash and the doors. I have no idea how it is getting behind the plastic trim.

TorchTarga94

Have you ever had your windshield replaced? Or maybe the PO? Check the metal trim that goes around the entire windshield. There is a rubber gasket that goes between the glass and metal trim. Often times when a windshield gets replaced, that rubber gasket gets discarded because it either is damaged during removal of the metal trim or just deteriorated from old age. The best thing you can do is tape off the windshield glass and metal trim with painters tape and apply a nice bead of black RTV silicone adhesive sealant. Then remove the tape. This will give you a nice finished look and should solve your leak problem as well as wind noise. I had this happen on my 94' shortly after windshield was replaced by safelite. It would leak through that small space and drip down the A-Pillar trim inside the cab.

KJL

I did that but perhaps there is still a gap somewhere. I placed a bead around the entire perimeter. I also put a bead between the channel the pillar gasket sits in and the windshield frame. Not to many places It could be coming from at this point.

TorchTarga94

It sounds like you have covered all of your bases. Another thought might be to readjust the Targa Top now that you have new weatherstrip as well as slather some dieletric grease all over it.

kenmohr

The top outside corner of the seal there is a passage way into the channel. Added more adhesive to the corner to fill and block the passage and no more problems. If I find a pic with the seal not installed I'll post it. We just put the nozzle under the trim and filled the whole corner and it sealed.

KJL

Yes, I know what you are referring to. I am not sure if I filled it or not. Even if water was getting through there I cant see how it would end up behind the dash side plastic trim cover.

Overall the leak situation is much better. Just some small drips from these areas mentioned. Lessons learned here are allow the weatherstrip to get some sun exposure after installation for a couple of weeks. The sealing got better over time. I think the seal expands some from the heat. Also, consider not applying a continuous bead of gasket adhesive but only applying at corners, midpoints and ends. Various video out there where some show spot application and others show continuous. Some show application only to the channel and some show adding bead to channel and gasket. If you are going to use a single bead then don't wait to long before getting the gasket in place. You don't want it to skim over if you are not applying to both surfaces. If you apply to both surfaces, it leaves almost no wiggle room for adjustment once the two surfaces come into contact. Layout ahead of time tape to mark relative location in frame by doing a dry fitment. I did apply to both surfaces and can be messy and more difficult to install this way. The 3M adhesive recommends applying to both surfaces typical for most contact adhesives. The question is how much does the adhesive contribute to the actual seal? It appeared to be only spot applied on the original gasket. Anyway, buy the best you can afford. Pulling it out and doing re-doing would not be fun.

It is ironic I have the same small drip on both sides. I suspect the windshield was replaced at some in time. It is at an age where there always something going wrong although mostly minor in nature. Radiator (replaced with Dewitts aluminum unit with an extra row), window motor, AC blending door actuator, water pump, weather seals, headlight actuator gear pucks, Bose Amp capacitor replacement and now replacing the AC compressor clutch. While waiting on the part to arrive I installed new Hawk performance brake pads and did a complete brake system fluid flush with Pentosin DOT 4 High Temp fluid. I did all this work myself. When I did the water pump and radiator, I replaced Tstat, rebuilt the lovely optispark unit (good thing, the screws that hold the rotor in place was about to fall out), installed all new seals in the time chain cover...there a lot of them... I think 4 or 5 counting the crank positioning sensor seal and new belt.

KJL

found the hole and sealed it with RTV.

kenmohr

That did stop my leak. Hope it works as well for you.