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If you do use greaseable u-joint. be sure to put them in so the zerk area is under compression and is arranged such that the zerk is not broken off during normal shaft rotation and angle movement.
Finally got around to ordering new hubs from Rock Auto. One of the front hubs is clearly marked made in China. Did not expect that paying for a "Premium" Bearing. The other three boxes are not marked where they are made. Considered the WBI and SKF but could not find a front hub from them, only rear hub.
Compare these to your old hubs, measure width. I bought a pair for my front and the Timken where 2mm wider per hub.
Messed up my C5 brake installation.
Just an update: I swapped the joints in the main shaft and the rear one had an end with no needle bearings in it, just a little powdered metal. The cap was also busted. That joint was definitely on its last legs. There's still a small vibration in the car driving at highway speeds but it's CONSIDERABLY reduced. I found that the driver's side rear wheel bearing has some play, so that's probably my next target. Passenger side was completely solid so I'm not sure if I'll do both or just the one side (depends on how easy it is I guess). Rear U-joints seemed really solid, no play in the half shafts that I could find. considering how big a pain those look to be, I may just leave them alone.
Another thing I noticed: there something that looks like a harmonic balancer on the main shaft. The rubber has popped out a bit on it, but it has slid back into the joint (it's not interfering with motion). I don't think it's possible for it to fall off or anything, and honestly I just left it alone and put it back on like that. Anyone else have similar experience? Is that what it's for is to balance the shaft?
my diveshafts never have anything on them other than a sticker
you can see it on the right in this pic. It's not technically on the driveshaft I guess, it's on the part that goes into the 4+3 with splines (don't know what it's called).
oh. yeah thats normal i think. i thought u meant some kinda disc around the driveshaft
Yeah it was on my old vette too so I didn't think it was too weird.
I noticed today a 'clunk' sound when I press in the clutch from 1st-2nd, coming from the rear of the car. As in, I press in the clutch, and it's like something grabbed in the rear of the car when the clutch was pressed. It seemed to go away after 2 stops/starts, so I'm not sure what it was. I feel like I'm going to end up jacking it up again soon to figure THAT out...I tested both rear half shafts by pulling on them and there wasn't any play, and I just replaced everything in the main shaft, so I'm really not sure where it would be coming from? The differential, maybe? I can't imagine a wheel bearing doing that?
The following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the symptom(s) described in this PI.
Condition/Concern: While driving in a steady slow speed parade type situation a clunk-clunk noise from the driveline may be heard when depressing and releasing the clutch pedal, between shifts or quickly depressing and releasing the throttle.
Recommendation/Instructions: The noise is a normal torque reversal in the driveline and a combination of axle backlash, front and rear drive shaft rubber isolation flanges, drive shaft center support, and a dual mass flywheel all working together. This is a normal characteristic and not a condition of operation concern. No repairs should be attempted.
Also reference the latest version of TSB 03-07-29-004 for further manual transmission operating characteristics.
Rear passenger wheel bearing was also bad. I was led to believe this would be a hard job-but honestly it was pretty easy. Hardest part by FAR was braking loose the axle nut. Broke my breaker bar on it. Got a 3/4" wrench from my buddy that he uses on tractors, then a six foot extension. Finally broke it loose that way.
The hub bolts are easy, just have to rotate the axle out of the way each time. 5 minute job for us.
Having a second person to help hold the hub in place while getting the bolts started it highly recommended. That made it super easy.
I'll be honest we didn't use a torque wrench putting that axle nut back on. However, we tightened it back down using the same wrench and pipe extension we used to break it free. I also put some loctite in there to keep it in place and keep it from corroding. I'm confident it's not going anywhere.
Just some tips for anyone else wanting to do this job.
01-28-2019, 08:00 AM
