1985 u joint and wheel hub/bearing replacement
#1
Drifting
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Member Since: Mar 2017
Location: Nashville TN
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2017 C4 of Year Finalist
1985 u joint and wheel hub/bearing replacement
I'm thinking of doing the rear hubs and bearings along with the u joints. I'm getting vibrations in the car and I saw a lot of slop in the u joints while swapping the overdrive. Should have done it at the same time but oh well.
A few questions:
Are all 6 u joints the same or are the rear axle ones different from the driveshaft?
Should I replace just bearings, or the whole hub?
Any gotchas to the job?
Any recommendations on brands? Rock Auto has wheel hubs from $25 to $350.
Any other things I should do while I'm already in there?
Thanks!
A few questions:
Are all 6 u joints the same or are the rear axle ones different from the driveshaft?
Should I replace just bearings, or the whole hub?
Any gotchas to the job?
Any recommendations on brands? Rock Auto has wheel hubs from $25 to $350.
Any other things I should do while I'm already in there?
Thanks!
#2
Safety Car
Should I replace just bearings, or the whole hub?
Don't forget this part
https://www.corvettecentral.com/c4-8...r-inner-584093
Or this part. Had I known about this one, I would have put it in my '96.
https://www.corvettecentral.com/c4-8...al%26count%3d9
Other useful information is in here. Disregard it mentions bushings, it has a section on the hubs....
http://tech.corvettecentral.com/2014...-installation/
Unless you already have one, or can borrow one, expect a trip to Harbor Freight to pick up their 3/4" torque wrench. 1/2" ones typically won't go to a high enough value. While there, don't forget the set of adapters. There is a 3/4" to 1/2" reducer in the set that is invaluable.
Last edited by drcook; 01-26-2019 at 10:55 AM.
#4
Safety Car
https://www.harborfreight.com/34-in-...nch-63883.html
plus the 20% coupon that is currently on their website makes it really affordable AND you are going to use it, unless you have one or access to one as I said
plus the 20% coupon that is currently on their website makes it really affordable AND you are going to use it, unless you have one or access to one as I said
#5
Safety Car
Here's an excellent article on doing u-joints through hubs: https://www.digitalcorvettes.com/for...d.php?t=144562
Use as much as applies to your project. I used it when I did mine and it really helped out. I made a tool to use in a hydraulic press to work on the u-joints and it worked out great.
Good luck.
Use as much as applies to your project. I used it when I did mine and it really helped out. I made a tool to use in a hydraulic press to work on the u-joints and it worked out great.
Good luck.
#6
Racer
here are some tips for you. I have replaced ujoints and bearings several times.
use Spicer ujoints with coated caps. I got mine from Denny's Driveshaft.
use USA made bearings. SKF or WBI..
replace the teflon coated steel washers behind the bearings. got mine from GM dealer.
use a top quality T55 bit to remove bolts that hold bearings. I got a SNAP-ON. If you use one from Harbor Freight and strip out the bolt, you will have to remove the knuckle and it is still a PITA to get bolt out.
use Spicer ujoints with coated caps. I got mine from Denny's Driveshaft.
use USA made bearings. SKF or WBI..
replace the teflon coated steel washers behind the bearings. got mine from GM dealer.
use a top quality T55 bit to remove bolts that hold bearings. I got a SNAP-ON. If you use one from Harbor Freight and strip out the bolt, you will have to remove the knuckle and it is still a PITA to get bolt out.
#7
Safety Car
replace the teflon coated steel washers behind the bearings. got mine from GM dealer.
use a top quality T55 bit to remove bolts that hold bearings. I got a SNAP-ON. If you use one from Harbor Freight and strip out the bolt
Last edited by drcook; 01-26-2019 at 03:48 PM.
#8
Melting Slicks
There is a seal on the 84 and 85s that should be changed when you replace the rear hubs( see post #2 above). Corvette Central had the washers a few months ago when I purchased a spare set. The U joints should be replaced with the proper ones as mentioned above. I used Timkens on my rears back in 2011 on my 84.
Good luck with your repair.
Good luck with your repair.
#9
Safety Car
When I changed the rear hub on mine, I pulled the half shaft and it made it extremely easy to get to the torx bolts and get them out. I believe Corvette Central is the only source currently for the Teflon washers lately. They're reproductions and though not perfect compared to the originals they should work.
Just FYI
#11
Safety Car
#12
if you are following the FSM, you may or may not know this. if you don't, a little FYI. when you drop the drive shaft, unbolt it at the differential end, and drop it down to the point of interference with the body structure/pinch weld. there's some sheet metal bent and spot welded to form part of the sub-structure. take a grinder and remove about a 1/8" x 1.5" as shown, it removes the interference allowing the shaft removal without removing the support beam. removal of the support beam is called out in the FSM. that in itself is a bunch of extra work. the metal removal is minimal, and no way affects the body integrity -
here's a couple shots of the area I'm talking about -
here's a couple shots of the area I'm talking about -
Last edited by Joe C; 01-27-2019 at 08:40 AM.
#14
been a few years and trying to jog my memory, but i'm thinking the half shafts u-joints differ from the drive shaft - ???
Last edited by Joe C; 01-28-2019 at 08:35 AM.
#15
Drifting
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Yeah I think they might be different but I can only find the drive shaft ones. I've got the 4+3.
Is the drive shaft and half shafts two different jobs? By which I mean it's there any reason to do them all at once? I try to break big jobs down into smaller jobs is I can due to limited time.
Is the drive shaft and half shafts two different jobs? By which I mean it's there any reason to do them all at once? I try to break big jobs down into smaller jobs is I can due to limited time.
#16
Yeah I think they might be different but I can only find the drive shaft ones. I've got the 4+3.
Is the drive shaft and half shafts two different jobs? By which I mean it's there any reason to do them all at once? I try to break big jobs down into smaller jobs is I can due to limited time.
Is the drive shaft and half shafts two different jobs? By which I mean it's there any reason to do them all at once? I try to break big jobs down into smaller jobs is I can due to limited time.
Last edited by Joe C; 01-27-2019 at 02:20 PM.
#17
Drifting
U-joints are not the same.
Half-shaft uses larger 1350 series and driveshaft the smaller 1310 series.
I would say that it is two different jobs.
Driveshaft almost require a lift and you have to remove the exhaust under the direveshaft.
Half-shafts can be done on jack stands.
Half-shaft uses larger 1350 series and driveshaft the smaller 1310 series.
I would say that it is two different jobs.
Driveshaft almost require a lift and you have to remove the exhaust under the direveshaft.
Half-shafts can be done on jack stands.
#20
Melting Slicks
The tail shaft joints are 1310 series (3.219 x 1.062)
the axle joints are 1350 series (3.625 x 1.187)
I wouldnt use the greasable joints - the hollow spaces inside the joint cause weak spots. (greaseable ok if you dont pound on your car, track it etc)
I would go for something at around $20 or more per joint - Moog #369 or AC DELCO #45u0145 or similiar
the axle joints are 1350 series (3.625 x 1.187)
I wouldnt use the greasable joints - the hollow spaces inside the joint cause weak spots. (greaseable ok if you dont pound on your car, track it etc)
I would go for something at around $20 or more per joint - Moog #369 or AC DELCO #45u0145 or similiar