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1985 u joint and wheel hub/bearing replacement

 
Old 01-26-2019, 11:31 AM
  #1  
Bfenty
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Default 1985 u joint and wheel hub/bearing replacement

I'm thinking of doing the rear hubs and bearings along with the u joints. I'm getting vibrations in the car and I saw a lot of slop in the u joints while swapping the overdrive. Should have done it at the same time but oh well.

A few questions:

Are all 6 u joints the same or are the rear axle ones different from the driveshaft?

Should I replace just bearings, or the whole hub?

Any gotchas to the job?

Any recommendations on brands? Rock Auto has wheel hubs from $25 to $350.

Any other things I should do while I'm already in there?

Thanks!
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Old 01-26-2019, 11:51 AM
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drcook
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Should I replace just bearings, or the whole hub?
The bearing and the hub is an assembly. If you make friends with the Napa guy and have him read the warranties etc for you, their better ones are made by SKF. That is what I put on my car.

Don't forget this part

https://www.corvettecentral.com/c4-8...r-inner-584093

Or this part. Had I known about this one, I would have put it in my '96.

https://www.corvettecentral.com/c4-8...al%26count%3d9

Other useful information is in here. Disregard it mentions bushings, it has a section on the hubs....

http://tech.corvettecentral.com/2014...-installation/

Unless you already have one, or can borrow one, expect a trip to Harbor Freight to pick up their 3/4" torque wrench. 1/2" ones typically won't go to a high enough value. While there, don't forget the set of adapters. There is a 3/4" to 1/2" reducer in the set that is invaluable.

Last edited by drcook; 01-26-2019 at 11:55 AM.
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Old 01-26-2019, 12:00 PM
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Good info there thank you
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Old 01-26-2019, 01:32 PM
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drcook
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https://www.harborfreight.com/34-in-...nch-63883.html

plus the 20% coupon that is currently on their website makes it really affordable AND you are going to use it, unless you have one or access to one as I said
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Old 01-26-2019, 01:59 PM
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Here's an excellent article on doing u-joints through hubs: https://www.digitalcorvettes.com/for...d.php?t=144562
Use as much as applies to your project. I used it when I did mine and it really helped out. I made a tool to use in a hydraulic press to work on the u-joints and it worked out great.

Good luck.
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Old 01-26-2019, 03:25 PM
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IBVETN2
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here are some tips for you. I have replaced ujoints and bearings several times.
use Spicer ujoints with coated caps. I got mine from Denny's Driveshaft.
use USA made bearings. SKF or WBI..
replace the teflon coated steel washers behind the bearings. got mine from GM dealer.
use a top quality T55 bit to remove bolts that hold bearings. I got a SNAP-ON. If you use one from Harbor Freight and strip out the bolt, you will have to remove the knuckle and it is still a PITA to get bolt out.
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Old 01-26-2019, 04:47 PM
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drcook
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replace the teflon coated steel washers behind the bearings. got mine from GM dealer.
Just so you know, no longer in the GM supply chain, see the above link I provided from Corvette Central. I purchased some of the last available from GM when I did mine. When I asked the dealership to get me a spare set, I was told "no longer available".

use a top quality T55 bit to remove bolts that hold bearings. I got a SNAP-ON. If you use one from Harbor Freight and strip out the bolt
I agree whole heartly because of where it is. I have a set from Craftsman, but they are 24 yrs old. I have no idea how the current ones are. You want one that is tough and hard, not hard and brittle or ill-fitting.

Last edited by drcook; 01-26-2019 at 04:48 PM.
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Old 01-26-2019, 06:30 PM
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zachaeous
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There is a seal on the 84 and 85s that should be changed when you replace the rear hubs( see post #2 above). Corvette Central had the washers a few months ago when I purchased a spare set. The U joints should be replaced with the proper ones as mentioned above. I used Timkens on my rears back in 2011 on my 84.

Good luck with your repair.
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Old 01-27-2019, 07:34 AM
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hcbph
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Originally Posted by IBVETN2 View Post
use a top quality T55 bit to remove bolts that hold bearings. I got a SNAP-ON. If you use one from Harbor Freight and strip out the bolt, you will have to remove the knuckle and it is still a PITA to get bolt out.
I used one of the impact torx from HR on my rear hub and had very good luck with it. Held up great and fit perfect and worked with an impact wrench. Only thing I noticed was the T55 wasn't long enough if you wanted to use it on a front axel. I picked up a longer one off ebay if I ever need to deal with the front hubs.
When I changed the rear hub on mine, I pulled the half shaft and it made it extremely easy to get to the torx bolts and get them out. I believe Corvette Central is the only source currently for the Teflon washers lately. They're reproductions and though not perfect compared to the originals they should work.
Just FYI

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Old 01-27-2019, 07:40 AM
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I'll have to pull the half shafts anyway to replace u joints right?
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Old 01-27-2019, 07:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Bfenty View Post
I'll have to pull the half shafts anyway to replace u joints right?
Yup - take a look at that thread I noted earlier. It's pretty good IMO and includes both text and pictures and it's what I followed when I did mine on changing the u-joints and later the rear hub.
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Old 01-27-2019, 09:39 AM
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if you are following the FSM, you may or may not know this. if you don't, a little FYI. when you drop the drive shaft, unbolt it at the differential end, and drop it down to the point of interference with the body structure/pinch weld. there's some sheet metal bent and spot welded to form part of the sub-structure. take a grinder and remove about a 1/8" x 1.5" as shown, it removes the interference allowing the shaft removal without removing the support beam. removal of the support beam is called out in the FSM. that in itself is a bunch of extra work. the metal removal is minimal, and no way affects the body integrity -

here's a couple shots of the area I'm talking about -





Last edited by Joe C; 01-27-2019 at 09:40 AM.
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Old 01-27-2019, 12:35 PM
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Thanks Joe C. Good advice.

Are the u joints the same for the drive shaft as for the half shafts? So I just get 6 of the same kind?
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Old 01-27-2019, 01:12 PM
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Joe C
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Originally Posted by Bfenty View Post
Thanks Joe C. Good advice.

Are the u joints the same for the drive shaft as for the half shafts? So I just get 6 of the same kind?

been a few years and trying to jog my memory, but i'm thinking the half shafts u-joints differ from the drive shaft - ???

Last edited by Joe C; 01-28-2019 at 09:35 AM.
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Old 01-27-2019, 02:31 PM
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Yeah I think they might be different but I can only find the drive shaft ones. I've got the 4+3.

Is the drive shaft and half shafts two different jobs? By which I mean it's there any reason to do them all at once? I try to break big jobs down into smaller jobs is I can due to limited time.
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Old 01-27-2019, 03:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Bfenty View Post
Yeah I think they might be different but I can only find the drive shaft ones. I've got the 4+3.

Is the drive shaft and half shafts two different jobs? By which I mean it's there any reason to do them all at once? I try to break big jobs down into smaller jobs is I can due to limited time.
really two separate jobs. did you check rockauto for the half shafts? they seem to have several brands available.

Last edited by Joe C; 01-27-2019 at 03:20 PM.
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Old 01-27-2019, 04:02 PM
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U-joints are not the same.

Half-shaft uses larger 1350 series and driveshaft the smaller 1310 series.

I would say that it is two different jobs.

Driveshaft almost require a lift and you have to remove the exhaust under the direveshaft.

Half-shafts can be done on jack stands.
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Old 01-27-2019, 04:52 PM
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So for the main drive shaft (transmission to rear diff) these are what I want?



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Old 01-28-2019, 02:45 AM
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Does anyone else with a 1985 find it unnerving with Edwards transmission add for free towing pop up?��
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Old 01-28-2019, 08:35 AM
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The tail shaft joints are 1310 series (3.219 x 1.062)

the axle joints are 1350 series (3.625 x 1.187)

I wouldnt use the greasable joints - the hollow spaces inside the joint cause weak spots. (greaseable ok if you dont pound on your car, track it etc)

I would go for something at around $20 or more per joint - Moog #369 or AC DELCO #45u0145 or similiar
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