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1996 ZF6 clutch fluid reservoir low

 
Old 03-12-2019, 08:12 PM
  #41  
1993C4LT1
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Originally Posted by STEVEN13 View Post
Not a dumb question!

Correct no air-Which ever devise you are using make sure it pulls from the fluid.

Good luck.
Steve
Sweet, thank you
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Old 03-16-2019, 01:42 PM
  #42  
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So I just reverse bled the system. Still showing bubbles in the master reservoir. Pics of my setup. Never any air in the line.
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Old 03-16-2019, 01:44 PM
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Old 03-16-2019, 01:49 PM
  #44  
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Clutch pedal is stiff, always was. But it doesn't want to go into gear. It does on occasion. But still, i've been pumping for 15 minutes, and bubbles keep showing up.

Last edited by 1993C4LT1; 03-16-2019 at 01:50 PM.
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Old Yesterday, 02:34 PM
  #45  
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When I did mine I was replacing the line, master and slave cylinders at the same time. The master was leaking out of the back. While I had the slave off I turned the slave cylinder so that the bleeder was on top. I gravity bled first. At some point I also used a Mighty Vac when the bleeder was facing up too.

Gary
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Old Yesterday, 04:15 PM
  #46  
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I guess I could try rotating the slave, so that the bleeder is upwards. I haven't driven this car since I brought it home 3 weeks ago. But since I added the clutch fluid two weeks ago, the level in the reservoir hasn't gone down. Clutch pedal is dry, carpet is dry, no signs of fluid in the inspection cover on the bell housing.

I'll figure it out one day. Again, thank you all for the help.
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Old Yesterday, 04:59 PM
  #47  
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That sucks you haven't been able to drive it. My firewall was damp with fluid and the resovoir was low. Not knowing the maintenance history done to the car, I replaced all three components. I also cracked the hose connection loose at the slave when I initally did it. If you search for the "ranger method" for changing out the fluid they mention letting the clutch peddle slip from your foot so it springs back to position. This helps move some of the air bubbles that are trapped move.

Gary
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Old Today, 10:08 AM
  #48  
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When I reverse bled mine-I did get the air bubbles also. I believe that is normal as the air wants to go to a high point. I have used a few methods to bleed. When I used the lever style oil can I put the end directly into the bleeder. Make sure the method you are using is not pulling in any air. If you decide to remove the slave and rotate it to bleed. Be careful when you reinstall, as one time I missed the folk with the rod. Drove me crazy as I thought it wasn't bleed correctly.

Good luck
Steve

Last edited by STEVEN13; Today at 10:09 AM.
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Old Today, 12:22 PM
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I've always had trouble reverse bleeding the system. Years ago when I spoke with Jim at Powertorqe he offered this method, might be worth a shot. I'll do my best to recall. This assumes the master is full, and there is little to no air in the master/clutch line. Master cap is on.

- Remove slave from the car and remove hydraulic line from slave. Very little fluid should be lost from the hydraulic line as the master cap is still on, essentially holding fluid in place.
- bench bleed the slave. Remove slave and dump out the old fluid. Start filling with fresh fluid through the line port (bleeder is closed). As you fill, air is naturally displaced out. Fill until full and fluid pools at the line port opening. Trick --> Using a small diameter syringe to fill it up works great as air will be displaced/bubble around the tip as fluid rises.
- Once the slave is full, CAREFULLY bring it over the car and install the clutch line. If your careful enough, very little fluid is lost and there is little air in the slave cylinder.
- Bolt the slave down to the bell housing. Make sure the slave push rod is centered on the clutch fork and torque the two nuts down at an even pace.
- Pump the pedal 50 or so times, varying stroke length and speed, and you should have a solid clutch that engages.

If this doesnt work you may want to look into replacing components.
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