When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I wouldn't think too much of the line touching the bell housing.... HOWEVER... if it was bothering me, Id take a piece of appropriately sized hoze, split it long ways with a razor blade and use it as a protective cover. Hold it in place with a couple of zip ties. I use that method in any situation like that. It works particularly well wit the ABS sensor wire covering that crumbles in many cases. I use vacuum hose for them...
I'll see if I can find some sort of heat resistant hose to put over it. Sorry for all the questions, seriously. Should I worry about the new clutch line touching the ground nut?
Dont need anything special... 3/8 fuel line would work fine... and no on the line touching the ground nut. You could get a hose clamp that has been rubberized and simply use it to retain the braided line.
Something like these... I have a few of these... always find a use for them....
Dumb question. If I unbolt the slave, will I be able to tell if the clutch fork is broken? Have the amsoil fluid, but haven't changed it yet. I'll change the fluid first, and if still hard to get into gear, I'll remove the slave.
Decided to remove the slave last night, as I felt ambitious. Was hoping that I could stick my camera in the hole where the slave goes. To see if i could get a good look at the clutch fork. You can't. Too tight in there. With that said, do I have a clutch fork problem?
My clutch engages very nicely. Forwards and reverse. But I pushed on the clutch fork with a long flat head, to see if it would move. It didn't move, and I was putting some serious effort into it. Why did I do that? Cause I read on the forum that if you push on the fork all the way, and have someone shift gears, and it shifts smoothly, it's a hydraulic problem.
I did find the fork has the smallest amount of play if you push down on it, and I mean small play. But then I got to thinking. If the fork was problematic, my clutch wouldn't engage. At least not as smoothly as it does, or at the point it engages. But I could be wrong, as I am new to manual transmissions and the zf6. If you guys think I should start a new thread on this, let me know.
Changed the zf6 fluid just now. I haven't driven the car with the new fluid, but it feels exactly the same as before. Still hard to get into gear. If the trans is in the mood of getting into gear, it'll be 1st and or reverse. I can get it into every gear, yes. But that's forcing it. Not like when I bought the car, and it just slid right into gear.
May have to send the car to someone that knows what they are doing.
Just my opinion but I think you need to drive it for a fair assessment. At least do that before you pay someone to look at it
I did drive it yesterday, for about 5 miles. But that was with the old fluid. But yeah, I'll do another short drive with the new fluid.
How well does the system have to be bled? I do get bubbles when pumping fast in the master reservoir. But these bubbles are like the size of a needle tip. Very impossible to get on camera. For every 30 or so pumps, I get about 4-5 of them.
Luckily my phone captured the bubbles I am talking about.
Same pics. The 2nd one is just zoomed in.
EDIT
Oh, I did drive the car this morning. Ah felt so good to,be behind the wheel of a C4 again. Anyways, clutch engages great. Shifting the car going down the road does shift easier/smoother than when the car is off. But every now and then, 2nd and 3rd gear shifts were notchy. Man it felt good driving the car tho
I think you are fine. There will be bubbles after just bleeding it. It takes a few 100 miles or so of driving and clutch cycles to work them all out. Just make sure pedal is pressed in all the way before shifting.
Also keep in mind, your transmission was rebuilt at some point. It may just be the nature of your transmission to shift a little notchier. They are all different and I have heard the synchros/gears will kind of wear to how it is being driven. I bet after a few thousand miles you won't think anything of it and it'll still be the same.
I think you are fine. There will be bubbles after just bleeding it. It takes a few 100 miles or so of driving and clutch cycles to work them all out. Just make sure pedal is pressed in all the way before shifting.
Also keep in mind, your transmission was rebuilt at some point. It may just be the nature of your transmission to shift a little notchier. They are all different and I have heard the synchros/gears will kind of wear to how it is being driven. I bet after a few thousand miles you won't think anything of it and it'll still be the same.
Thanks. I hope so. Forgot to mention: no metal chunks came out of the trans. Just a slight dusting of metal flakes. Which I believe is normal for a trans.
I asked Bill B about this. He said to re bleed and if still not good, clutch master is bad. But I'll drive it for a while before doing that. I put a Wagner clutch master. I couldn't really find anything as to which brand is recommended.
Thanks. I hope so. Forgot to mention: no metal chunks came out of the trans. Just a slight dusting of metal flakes. Which I believe is normal for a trans.
I asked Bill B about this. He said to re bleed and if still not good, clutch master is bad. But I'll drive it for a while before doing that. I put a Wagner clutch master. I couldn't really find anything as to which brand is recommended.
before going for a new clutch master cylinder, try DOT 5 silicon based brake fluid; its more viscous that DOT 3 or DOT4 brake fluid, and it seems to work better in the clutch systems; other forum members have tried it with improved clutch action.
Yep if you don't have it all the way in it will do that. Its a habit for me now I always shift into first or another gear before sliding it back into Reverse. I don't have to do it but its habit.
I literally ordered 3 quarts of it like 15 minutes ago
Thanks though
04-26-2019, 02:30 PM
