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Bringing the car home from a 250 mile drive last Sunday, there was one time it didn't let me go into 5th. Sitting in my car just now, engine off, I was going through the gears and found it to be harsh. So I stopped immediately, and checked the clutch fluid reservoir. Here are pics of what I saw. Car has 54k miles. So I'm not sure if the slave and master are original. Should I just add dot3 and see what it does?
Fill it up and look for the leak. I just posted a second ago in another thread about changing fluid often using the turkey baster method... then I see this thread!!
I use BG dot 3 brake fluid in my clutch hydraulic system without issue. Works well.
I would fill the system and bleed it and check for leaks. Worse case, you replace the clutch master and slave and the flex hose and be done for the next 20 years.
Have another question. When filling the reservoir, do I fill it to the "full" line? Asking because this dust boot makes it seem like it would just fall over when I put it in.
Doesn't that boot fold up like an accordion and stay flat? Mine does... As the fluid level goes down, the boot unfolds, and takes the space of the missing fluid.... Like ice cubes in a glass...
1. Youtube the ranger method for clutch fluid. It is mainly for C5+ Cars, but works well I've found even with our system. I do it once ever 2 to 3 months. Not everytime I hit the gas station.
2. Do not go buy shifting "roughness" or "notchiness" by just sitting in the car trying to shift with the engine off and the clutch depressed.
3. Fill the fluid to the "low" line. You are correct, the rubber bellow will push the fluid to the full line when you install the cap.
Check it after a few days if it is low, time to to replace both master and salve in my opinion. Jim Jandik is retired but he may still rebuild the originals if you call him. He rebuild mine back in 2012 I believe.
Doesn't that boot fold up like an accordion and stay flat? Mine does... As the fluid level goes down, the boot unfolds, and takes the space of the missing fluid.... Like ice cubes in a glass...
Interesting. I'll have to check if it does fold later today.
1. Youtube the ranger method for clutch fluid. It is mainly for C5+ Cars, but works well I've found even with our system. I do it once ever 2 to 3 months. Not everytime I hit the gas station. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gBbsy0LjUvE
2. Do not go buy shifting "roughness" or "notchiness" by just sitting in the car trying to shift with the engine off and the clutch depressed.
3. Fill the fluid to the "low" line. You are correct, the rubber bellow will push the fluid to the full line when you install the cap.
Check it after a few days if it is low, time to to replace both master and salve in my opinion. Jim Jandik is retired but he may still rebuild the originals if you call him. He rebuild mine back in 2012 I believe.
Hope you are doing well Brandon!
Awesome vid! I'll probably do it once a month, because I am a worrisome guy when it comes to my cars. I'll fill it up, and report back whatever happens.
I'm doing good! Hope you are to. How's the 94?
That sucker is dry man...I'd bet even after filling you will have some trapped air in the system which may or may not "self bleed". If you suspect further problem with shifting, time to bleed the system as well.
That sucker is dry man...I'd bet even after filling you will have some trapped air in the system which may or may not "self bleed". If you suspect further problem with shifting, time to bleed the system as well.
Thanks for the tip! I'll have to learn how to bleed it. Will do a search on here for tips.
Had the same issue on my 91 Z. Didn’t like going into 3rd first few days I had it. Pulled the cap to see the same sight you did. If you don’t have spots on the garage floor, either your master or slave is leaking into areas that hold the fluid until it dries or soaks up, like your bellhousing or inside the firewall. The bell may have signs of fluid stains but sometimes can be hard to spot.
I pulled the kick panel on the driver side so I could crawl in. I found the master had been slowly leaking fluid out the back of the cylinder and it was wet going down the firewall. The slave had already been replaced and had not been bled properly. I installed a new master, filled with clean GM clutch fluid, cracked the bleed valve on the slave and nothing came out for a few seconds. Then it eventually drained and it was black as coffee. If you crack the valve enough, it’s a steady drip that allows you to fill up the master reservoir until the old fluid is flushed, then crawl back under and close the valve.
Last edited by 1985 Corvette; 02-27-2019 at 06:22 PM.
I replaced the master, hose and slave on my 95. The master started to seep in the back. I used DOT 4 in my 95. The service manual recommends a GM spec fluid rather than DOT 3. It states to prevent squeeking in the master cylinder. I'm sure the DOT 3 will work,
02-26-2019, 09:15 PM
1996 ZF6 clutch fluid reservoir low
