ajd3rd

Looks like the front of the oil pan is leaking on my 96. I have a few questions before I start this:

1. Do in need to remove the two engine mount braces and if so what's the best way to support the engine?

2, Any tips on removing the outer bolt on the starter? Looks like the catalytic converter is in the way.

3. How hard will it be to rotate the engine with the spark plugs installed?

Any other tips or tricks would be greatly appreciated.

BLKMAMBA

I did my 93 LT1 at time of cam swap, so my plugs were out. engine will turn but tough. there is enough room to pull pan without lifting engine. I had to remove cat. unbolt starter and let hang and remove trans inspection plate(automatic) the pan part is easy, use the felpro gasket, it has pins to hold gasket to block for re assembly. Rock auto had best price

csthews

I did my '95 LT1. Turning the engine wasn't all that difficult. It wasn't necessary to remove the cat. You will have to remove the oil filter and filter adapter. (Make sure to clean the old adapter gasket material off of both surfaces.) I also used 1/4"-drive sockets and extensions to get to the front pan bolts.

NASCAR314

Just make sure it's not the front engine cover leaking (crank seal, crankshaft position sensor "o" - ring, or the front cover gasket) If it is, and you figure that out later, you need to drop the pan to remove the front cover. Use the big bad blue Fel-Pro gasket mentioned earlier, works well, still a bit tricky to re-install, may take more than one attempt, make sure gasket is aligned properly (at front) before bolting on. Must remove the starter, flywheel inspection plate, and oil filter adapter. No need to raise motor off mounts. Oil filter adapter "new gasket to block" is tricky, hard to scrape off all the old gasket material on block, patience and razor blades work. Engine will turn with plugs installed, just go slow and a little at a time. Crank needs to be in right position to get pan off and on with motor in car.

MatthewMiller

I may eventually have to do this same job, for the same reason as the OP. Using the Felpro blue gasket, does anyone recommend using RTV on it, or does it just go on with no goop added?

TorchTarga94

I've done it with RTV and without. With the Felpro blue gasket I would recommend installing it "dry". Put the car through a few heat cycles to make the gasket pliable, and snug the oil pan bolts down once more. Check again next oil change.

mixalive

Great information.

95LT1ZF

I may have been lucky with the engine position. With the oil filter adapter and the starter out, the pan pretty much fell off once the bolts were out. I did use the blue gasket and I applied a very small amount of RTV in the hump corners as I read many folks did. My oil leak was the front cover and crank seal, so, I was doing all those seals at the time as well.

STL94LT1

I installed a Felpro blue oil pan gasket ~15 years ago without any sealer, oil pan is still dry to this day. I had previously install a GM oil pan gasket wuth sealer on the edges/front and it leaked.

9T3VETTE

I installed a blue fel pro with RTV in the corners and it leaks. So, i'd recommend a dry install too.

compyelc4

NASCAR,

I'm in the process of replacing the oil pan gasket on a '95 coupe. I am down to the oil filter adapter. I removed the two hex bolts I thought were holding it on. Now how do I get the danged thing off? I see no other attaching bolts but pulling on it does no good. I just thought it would drop right off but naa. Should I tease it with a small plastic mallet. Does it just slip out?

Thank for the help.

STL94LT1

^^^ Pry the adapter off. Just stuck on with the old gasket, which can be a pain to scrape off the block.

compyelc4

Thanks. I just got a good grip, yanked, and it came right off. Thing is there was only an orange, round neoprene seal under it. No other gaskets. The FelPro kit comes with that round seal, a big thick square one, plus two gaskets that look like they may be for another application.

compyelc4

I'm doing the same thing today, but I am having one heluva' time slipping the pan back into position using a fel-pro one-piece gasket. The pan with old gasket slipped right off with no problem. Slipping it back on with the Fel-Pro is dang near impossible, as the front lip of the seal keeps slipping off as I try to wiggle the pan back on. How in heck did you do this?

Thanks.

95LT1ZF

Update on my comment above. I used RTV as some suggested and mine started leaking after 500 miles. I'll try it again this winter, but going dry this time.

Kubs

I have had the pan off my race car a couple times and I always use a small dab of RTV in the corners of the gasket where it goes around the timing cover and rear main. No sealer anywhere else. No leaks.