1989 C4 engine sputters and bogs when accelerating and eventually stalls.
#1
3rd Gear
Thread Starter
1989 C4 engine sputters and bogs when accelerating and eventually stalls.
Good evening fellow Corvette enthusiast! I am new to the forum and almost at my wits end! I purchased a 1989 one owner Chevrolet Corvette C-4 with 76,000 miles in December from my boss. He took meticulous care of this vehicle and has sat in a garage at work covered for the past 15 years. In December I installed a brand new top-of-the-line battery with a higher CCA as well as A new alternator dura last gold. It ran fine for a month but then started to stall out as soon as I give it gas it sputters and then cuts off. Today I hired a mechanic and we tested the fuel pump and it was dead so we replaced it. Also replaced the fuel filter. Brand new ignition coil. Brand new air filter. Brand new full set of eight Bosch spark plugs. Brand new mass airflow sensor. Brand new fuel pump relay switch. After doing all of this it still sounds completely the same. If anyone has had this issue before please help before I dump any more money into this beautiful blue car prematurely!!
Last edited by nathan johnson; 03-10-2019 at 07:35 PM.
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nathan johnson (09-27-2020)
#3
3rd Gear
Thread Starter
Honestly no he did not. It was someone that I found on craigslist because I desperately wanted to get it fixed before it was going to be towed away.
#4
Team Owner
Member Since: Oct 2004
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St. Jude Donor '05
Check the fuel pressure at the rail...you can get a gauge witha long hose or borrow one from an auto parts store (some of them)
Check it wiht the key on, then running, if all is well tape it to your windshield and see what it does under a load; also watch after you shut it off
Do you have the original injectors stil?
Check it wiht the key on, then running, if all is well tape it to your windshield and see what it does under a load; also watch after you shut it off
Do you have the original injectors stil?
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nathan johnson (09-27-2020)
#6
Heel & Toe
If the car sat for 15 years there is a chance that debris and gook are in the fuel rail and entrance way to the injectors. Something to look at. I've seen this fool some mechanics.
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nathan johnson (09-27-2020)
#7
Melting Slicks
Welcome to the forum and congrats on the new to you vette!
That's a lot of parts to throw at a problem. I hope he kept your old MAF because some of the new ones don't work the same and might cause MAF codes. If the new one is working without a code then I'd keep the old one as a spare.
Post up pics of the car
That's a lot of parts to throw at a problem. I hope he kept your old MAF because some of the new ones don't work the same and might cause MAF codes. If the new one is working without a code then I'd keep the old one as a spare.
Post up pics of the car
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nathan johnson (09-27-2020)
#8
Intermediate
Good evening fellow Corvette enthusiast! I am new to the forum and almost at my wits end! I purchased a 1989 one owner Chevrolet Corvette C-4 with 76,000 miles in December from my boss. He took meticulous care of this vehicle and has sat in a garage at work covered for the past 15 years. In December I installed a brand new top-of-the-line battery with a higher CCA as well as A new alternator dura last gold. It ran fine for a month but then started to stall out as soon as I give it gas it sputters and then cuts off. Today I hired a mechanic and we tested the fuel pump and it was dead so we replaced it. Also replaced the fuel filter. Brand new ignition coil. Brand new air filter. Brand new full set of eight Bosch spark plugs. Brand new mass airflow sensor. Brand new fuel pump relay switch. After doing all of this it still sounds completely the same. If anyone has had this issue before please help before I dump any more money into this beautiful blue car prematurely!!
1. Open Hood.
2. Next to battery check the frame for rust. (The rust will be on the frame, you can follow the Negative cable small wire,)
3. If there is rust there take a wire brush and remove it. (The small cable from the Negative cable is connected to the frame there. The big Negative cable ties to the back of the engine on the left side. A cable from the back of the engine left side connects to the frame about an 2 inched from the small negative cable)
4. After removing the rust and cleaning the 2 Ground cables with a wire brush. Replace the cables I painted the area
Ray 1990 6SP Black Vette
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nathan johnson (09-27-2020)