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Hey everyone, I picked up my first Corvette this week and have been enjoying it driving back to forth to work. It is a very clean car for it's age, trying to make an attack plan for the little things that needs to be restored first before moving on to squeezing some more ponies from it.
Things that need to be addressed so far:
LCD readout is dim/hard to read during the day. (Ordered the polarizing "skins" to r&r it)
Weather stripping for top (coupe) and doors is hard/brittle...needs to be replaced.
Some of the black plastic trim inside needs to be re-installed (Came with car)
Since I started driving it, it has developed a noticeable oil leak on the front of the engine, and the passenger valve cover.
Right Rear tire is bald (Left rear new) Replacement tire ordered.
Alternator charges perfectly above 1k rpm, discharges at idle. (UnderDrive Pulleys? did alot of Vette owners do this back in the day?)
No noise from the rear, but under hard acceleration the rear end gets loose (Seems to have play) Tracks oddly at speeds over 100mph (Couple high speed passes) Doesn't inspire confidence.
Shocks/Ride quality (It appears the car has been lowered, and rides accordingly) It rides like a 69 BB with blown dampers. (My buddies C3)
Passenger window track needs help/ broken. Window works but is off track and needs help.
Good:
All buttons/ functions work. I have not found anything that doesn't work on the dash/ac/heat/gauges
Flowmaster Exhaust
Airbox mod with K&N filter
Paint is 8/10
Interior is 8/10
Transmission shifts are precise, no slippage in any gear.
Instant mpg at 65 mph is 28 by the computer.
No cracks that I can find. (Original paint still on car)
Kenwood double-din dvd player with GPS Kenwood amp and Punch 10's (Yes I am an audiophile)
For what I paid I am in no way disappointed, it is a very solid car. (Although high mileage 150k)
On the oil leaks, from what I have found on the forum I should be looking at the intake manifold, valve cover gaskets, and timing cover seals. Should I replace the WP and Optispark/wires while I have the front of the engine exposed? I usually would but I am unsure about the aftermarket/ reman Optisparks. I would hate to ditch the working unit just to install a reman unit that wont last 6 months.
The car has 3 new Sumitomo HTZ R tires on it, so I ordered a matching tire for the right rear. (315/35R17) From posts I have seen these seem to be a good blend of wet/dry traction and mileage. (compared to Nittos)
Hey everyone, I picked up my first Corvette this week and have been enjoying it driving back to forth to work. It is a very clean car for it's age, trying to make an attack plan for the little things that needs to be restored first before moving on to squeezing some more ponies from it.
Things that need to be addressed so far:
LCD readout is dim/hard to read during the day. (Ordered the polarizing "skins" to r&r it)
Weather stripping for top (coupe) and doors is hard/brittle...needs to be replaced.
Some of the black plastic trim inside needs to be re-installed (Came with car)
Since I started driving it, it has developed a noticeable oil leak on the front of the engine, and the passenger valve cover.
Right Rear tire is bald (Left rear new) Replacement tire ordered.
Alternator charges perfectly above 1k rpm, discharges at idle. (UnderDrive Pulleys? did alot of Vette owners do this back in the day?)
No noise from the rear, but under hard acceleration the rear end gets loose (Seems to have play) Tracks oddly at speeds over 100mph (Couple high speed passes) Doesn't inspire confidence.
Shocks/Ride quality (It appears the car has been lowered, and rides accordingly) It rides like a 69 BB with blown dampers. (My buddies C3)
Passenger window track needs help/ broken. Window works but is off track and needs help.
Good:
All buttons/ functions work. I have not found anything that doesn't work on the dash/ac/heat/gauges
Flowmaster Exhaust
Airbox mod with K&N filter
Paint is 8/10
Interior is 8/10
Transmission shifts are precise, no slippage in any gear.
Instant mpg at 65 mph is 28 by the computer.
No cracks that I can find. (Original paint still on car)
Kenwood double-din dvd player with GPS Kenwood amp and Punch 10's (Yes I am an audiophile)
For what I paid I am in no way disappointing, it is a very solid car. (Although high mileage 150k)
On the oil leaks, from what I have found on the forum I should be looking at the intake manifold, valve cover gaskets, and timing cover seals. Should I replace the WP and Optispark/wires while I have the front of the engine exposed? I usually would but I am unsure about the aftermarket/ reman Optisparks. I would hate to ditch the working unit just to install a reman unit that wont last 6 months.
The car has 3 new Sumitomo HTZ R tires on it, so I ordered a matching tire for the right rear. (315/35R17) From posts I have seen these seem to be a good blend of wet/dry traction and mileage. (compared to Nittos)
Hooray for 23 year old Corvettes!!!! I have a '96 Auto LT1 too. Had to drop approx $2,000 into it the first 8 months for some unexpected repairs, and this car had only 55,000 miles on it. It's my weekend/holiday driver and I luv it. Post a photo of your new ride soon...
My 96 LT1/auto is also new to me (December 29th).
Even though in almost perfect shape with low miles, I knew the brakes needed a workover.
Wasn't until later that I noticed the tires with LOTS of tread were coded 2002.
I replaced the shocks even though according to the ride afterwards I really did not need to.
So, like others, I spent a little more than the purchase price.
You will get lots of ideas and opinions here if you search. Good luck!
LOL I didn't loose a bet...just for cruising..I live a few miles from Houston Raceway...will prolly run it on Friday nights before/after mods.
Forgot to mention rotors were also upgraded with cross-drilled units.
Information center above heating controls doesn't come on/go off when ignition id turned on.
Oil leak on front went from major to minor in two days---weird. (Went from a 6 diameter circle to just a few drops last night.) Maybe seals are becoming pliable again, but prolly not)
Front oil leak could be the seals in the front cover. You have to remove the waterpump and opti to replace them. The odd tracking could be worn U-joints or bushings in the rear. With the mileage I'd check all the bushings and shocks. I'm sure they are due for replacement. Underdrive pulleys aren't a normal mod but you never know. You might have to measure the pulleys or check the belt number to see if it's a stock crossover. You can pick up new window regulator and tracks for around $100. The plastic slider on the front of the window cracks and makes the window move around, think they are available from the different vendors. Enjoy the new ride!
" You can pick up new window regulator and tracks for around $100." OMG where? All I am finding are complete delco units for $225+ Will order on tomorrow lol. (Rockauto,oriellys, Napa, etc) Yeah, going to pull her into the driveway this weekend and yank the front of the motor off, clean, check for play in the W/P shaft, replace the intake, and valve cover gaskets. L.E.D. headlights came in already so I'll probably replace those and pull the instrument cluster so I can re-skin my read-out. (Kit should be in Monday.) The challenge will be the driveway..its on the steep side. New rear tire should be in as well Saturday. (Ordered from American Muscle of all places, they were $40 cheaper than all the online vendors I could find) $130 for Sumitomo HTR Z 315/35-R17.
For your display check out batee.com they sell the stuff to fix it and he has a YouTube channel with step by step instructions. I did mine last summer in a couple of hours an it turned out perfect. Hers the before and after.
" You can pick up new window regulator and tracks for around $100." OMG where? All I am finding are complete delco units for $225+ Will order on tomorrow lol. (Rockauto,oriellys, Napa, etc) .
Sorry, looked up the last one I did and it was $225.
"No noise from the rear, but under hard acceleration the rear end gets loose"
From researching the forum, the closest I can describe this would be "Rear Steer". The rear pushes to the right when I get hard on the accelerator, and "relaxes" back the left (centerline) when I let off. Does this at any speed when I apply 1/2 throttle or more.
"Those who have experienced the loss of a trailing arm bushing or complete loss of toe shims in a C2 or C3 know the feeling of rear steer. The rear steers left or right on the throttle, and it steers the opposite direction off the throttle." From a rear suspension article I found.
Update: Window motor/ regulator came in. Going to try to get that done this weekend. (weather and job permitting) Also need to water test my GTX that I just finished rebuilding from the hull up. (Last time my steering cable snapped, so I replaced all the cables as well) Wife drove it, now she is trying to claim ownership lol.
Timing Cover Set
Valve Cover Set
Opti-Spark (complete)
Plugs
Wires
Coil
Water Pump
O2 Sensors
Found/ Repaired 3 vacuum leaks
Battery
Got into the passenger side door and found alot of fuckery....the door appears to be a complete unit from an earlier C4, it has the older style window motor/ track assembly in it. I have seen a couple videos of that style motor assembly being upgraded to what I have. Will need some time off to go through the door and drill new bolt holes etc.....
My window switch has a broken mount for the screws, does anyone have a source for these, and other plastic dash trim items? Or just ebay used items?
All my ignition issues and leaks are sorted, time for the interior odds and ends and the rear suspension/ shocks.....knowing me everything will probably get replaced.
03-21-2019, 05:45 AM
New to me 96 CE LT1/Auto
