1990 cranks, but won't start
04-05-2019, 12:03 PM
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
1990 cranks, but won't start
Yesterday I went to start my car, and it cranked without starting. It's been a little slow to start lately, so after a second I just shut the key off and tried again. It still wouldn't start, and even after messing with it today I haven't been able to get it going. Ordinarily I'd do a bunch of research on my own before coming here with a problem, but the Corvette is my daily, and life is going to be really tough if I can't get it fixed in the next day or two.
Here's everything I've observed:
I'm going to continue investigating this on my own (particularly the FEDS issue), but if you guys have any thoughts I would love your help.
Here's everything I've observed:
- Unlike past times it didn't start immediately, I noticed the cooling fan kicked on when the key was in the "On" position. I'm not sure the exact reasons this comes on, but I know I've seen it before when I jumped a couple ALDL pins (either to pull codes or to extend the IAC pintle; don't remember).
- I don't think it's a VATS problem - I've had issues with that, and the car won't even crank.
- When I crank it for a while, I can smell fuel. Unless it's dumping waaay too much or waaay too little fuel in, this points to a spark problem.
- I made sure the distributor wires were attached firmly, and I did the same to those on the back of the ECM. Because the fan was on, I did the same to both coolant temp sensors (couldn't remember which was the sensor for the ECM and which was the sender for the dash).
- I'm using an Ostrich emulator from Moates (for those not familiar, a chip emulator that attaches to the ECM's PROM slot). I was having problems with the cable acting as an antenna and killing the car from induced noise, so I had to shorten it, and in the process I broke the clip attaching the ribbon cable to the Ostrich. It's now held on with a zip tie and some duct tape, which I haven't had issues with (except possibly now) and which still appears to be affording a tight attachment. That said, I left a bad connection last year when I shortened the cable, and I seem to recall experiencing similar symptoms (fan on, car won't start).
- With the key on, engine off, "Sys" blinks on the dash LCD, and the security light slowly flashes (very roughly 6s on, 10s off).
- I tried connecting my phone to my Bluetooth ALDL connector to read codes, but the adapter was getting garbage data from the ECM. Granted, it can be pretty finnicky, but I haven't been unable to connect within a few attempts since I've figured out the quirks.
- I jumped the ALDL to read codes, and I got 1: C41, H41, H54, ___; 4: Err; 1.0.
- I can't figure out the difference between C41 and H41, but I'm reading that error 41 on module 1 points to "loss of ECM serial data communications."
- Code 51 points to "FEDS fuel enable failure," and I read in this thread that "According to the manual, FEDs handshaking takes place when the ignition key is turned to On. If the handshaking is not successful, the Security light blinks and SYS flashes in the LCD." I could have sworn I smelled fuel, but maybe not?
I'm going to continue investigating this on my own (particularly the FEDS issue), but if you guys have any thoughts I would love your help.
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C4ProjectCar (04-05-2019)
04-06-2019, 01:08 PM
#4
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I don't have a '89 service manual but on-line I found OBD 1 code 41 is cylinder select error and code 54 is low fuel pump voltage. My first test would always be fuel pressure and I'm sure you can do that.
I found the complete diagnosis flow chart(s) for TPI on Grumpy's w/s: http://garage.grumpysperformance.com...t1-vette.1401/
I believe once the tune is installed you can remove the Ostrich cable correct? I would get that out of the way to eliminate one more item unless you need it for diagnosis. It may be better to run diagnosis from the ALCL connector now if you have that gear.
I found the complete diagnosis flow chart(s) for TPI on Grumpy's w/s: http://garage.grumpysperformance.com...t1-vette.1401/
I believe once the tune is installed you can remove the Ostrich cable correct? I would get that out of the way to eliminate one more item unless you need it for diagnosis. It may be better to run diagnosis from the ALCL connector now if you have that gear.
04-07-2019, 11:48 AM
#5
Drifting
Thread Starter
I don't have a '89 service manual but on-line I found OBD 1 code 41 is cylinder select error and code 54 is low fuel pump voltage. My first test would always be fuel pressure and I'm sure you can do that.
I found the complete diagnosis flow chart(s) for TPI on Grumpy's w/s: http://garage.grumpysperformance.com...t1-vette.1401/
I believe once the tune is installed you can remove the Ostrich cable correct? I would get that out of the way to eliminate one more item unless you need it for diagnosis. It may be better to run diagnosis from the ALCL connector now if you have that gear.
I found the complete diagnosis flow chart(s) for TPI on Grumpy's w/s: http://garage.grumpysperformance.com...t1-vette.1401/
I believe once the tune is installed you can remove the Ostrich cable correct? I would get that out of the way to eliminate one more item unless you need it for diagnosis. It may be better to run diagnosis from the ALCL connector now if you have that gear.
You can remove the USB cable from the Ostrich, but the ribbon cable is necessary to connect it to the chip adapter.
I got it to start by reverting to the factory EPROM (but man did it run rough). I cracked open my Ostrich, and I found corrosion and a dead battery. Unfortunately the battery is soldered in, so I can't just pop a new one in real quick (I'd have to run to school to use one of their irons; I don't have one.) I'm concerned the problem could be more than just a dead battery, as the car wouldn't run even with the Ostrich hooked up to my computer, which I've been told by a Moates tech in the past should supply enough power to run it even with a dead battery. I emailed Moates, and I'll update back if I make any progress.
EDIT:
Found on the Ostrich's support page on the Moates website:
Environmental Compatibility
The Ostrich is NOT designed to be left in an engine bay!!! It will fail prematurely if exposed to the heat of a bay. It is designed for a maximum operating temperature of about 80C (175F).
The Ostrich is NOT designed to be exposed to moisture!!! It will fail prematurely if exposed to liquids. It will fail prematurely from condensation inside its case.
If you are going to use the Ostrich in harsh environments, try to do so for short periods of time and then program a chip for long term use. We recommend this in general but it is especially important in harsh environments.
Due to its internal battery constantly powering portions of the device, the Ostrich can easily be ruined by condensation caused by sudden drops of temperature in humid environments. Returning the Ostrich to a cool (~50-77F / 10-25C) , dry environment after exposure to high humidity before attempting to use again is a very good idea. Placing it in a sealed bag with dry rice or another desiccant can help if condensation is suspected.
Last edited by C4ProjectCar; 04-07-2019 at 11:51 AM.
04-07-2019, 02:03 PM
#6
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Oct 2002
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It reads like you have the problem source located. I apologize I really don't know much about the Ostrich but it reads like you can use it only for tuning adjustments and you still need to burn a PROM which kinda puts you back on first base for tuning equipment. Moats and Tuner Cats both sell the chip burning hardware or you could source it piece by piece yourself. You gonna need a computer and cable connector that can connect to the OBD I ALCL 12 pin port and convert that serial data to the needs of your laptop serial port. There are some cables on the market for USB but I have an older DELL Latitude laptop with a DB9/RS232 serial port which should be a match for (I'm guessing) your 8190 baud ECM (I hope it's not super 160 baud rate). I got a refurb DELL at a swapmeet for just over $100. But if it's the slower 160 baud you need a converter like: http://www.techedge.com.au/vehicle/aldl8192/8192hw.htm and good luck with that. Regardless I think using legacy hardware to connect and scan/tune is gonna have fewer problems than dealing with Bluetooth and Android converters.
My sympathies. It's kinda interesting piecing together legacy tuner equipment but I'm sure it's no fun when you are under a schedule pressure.
BTW everywhere I look code 41 is a Cylinder Select Error = Faulty or Incorrect MEMCAL. I'm also guessing you are using a OBD I 12 pin connector cable with OBD II 16 pin connector on the other end using the Bluetooth ALDL adapter to feed your android phone? Ya know I have frequently wondered why the only OBD I cables available have the OBD II connector on the other end. There must be an application somewhere that uses that configuration but I haven't found it yet. But those cables can be used to modify for other equipment and are as low as 2 bucks each. I have a lot of ideas for them and buy them 3 at a time.
My sympathies. It's kinda interesting piecing together legacy tuner equipment but I'm sure it's no fun when you are under a schedule pressure.
BTW everywhere I look code 41 is a Cylinder Select Error = Faulty or Incorrect MEMCAL. I'm also guessing you are using a OBD I 12 pin connector cable with OBD II 16 pin connector on the other end using the Bluetooth ALDL adapter to feed your android phone? Ya know I have frequently wondered why the only OBD I cables available have the OBD II connector on the other end. There must be an application somewhere that uses that configuration but I haven't found it yet. But those cables can be used to modify for other equipment and are as low as 2 bucks each. I have a lot of ideas for them and buy them 3 at a time.
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C4ProjectCar (04-07-2019)
04-07-2019, 02:24 PM
#7
Drifting
Thread Starter
It reads like you have the problem source located. I apologize I really don't know much about the Ostrich but it reads like you can use it only for tuning adjustments and you still need to burn a PROM which kinda puts you back on first base for tuning equipment. Moats and Tuner Cats both sell the chip burning hardware or you could source it piece by piece yourself. You gonna need a computer and cable connector that can connect to the OBD I ALCL 12 pin port and convert that serial data to the needs of your laptop serial port. There are some cables on the market for USB but I have an older DELL Latitude laptop with a DB9/RS232 serial port which should be a match for (I'm guessing) your 8190 baud ECM (I hope it's not super 160 baud rate). I got a refurb DELL at a swapmeet for just over $100. But if it's the slower 160 baud you need a converter like: http://www.techedge.com.au/vehicle/aldl8192/8192hw.htm and good luck with that. Regardless I think using legacy hardware to connect and scan/tune is gonna have fewer problems than dealing with Bluetooth and Android converters.
My sympathies. It's kinda interesting piecing together legacy tuner equipment but I'm sure it's no fun when you are under a schedule pressure.
BTW everywhere I look code 41 is a Cylinder Select Error = Faulty or Incorrect MEMCAL. I'm also guessing you are using a OBD I 12 pin connector cable with OBD II 16 pin connector on the other end using the Bluetooth ALDL adapter to feed your android phone? Ya know I have frequently wondered why the only OBD I cables available have the OBD II connector on the other end. There must be an application somewhere that uses that configuration but I haven't found it yet. But those cables can be used to modify for other equipment and are as low as 2 bucks each. I have a lot of ideas for them and buy them 3 at a time.
My sympathies. It's kinda interesting piecing together legacy tuner equipment but I'm sure it's no fun when you are under a schedule pressure.
BTW everywhere I look code 41 is a Cylinder Select Error = Faulty or Incorrect MEMCAL. I'm also guessing you are using a OBD I 12 pin connector cable with OBD II 16 pin connector on the other end using the Bluetooth ALDL adapter to feed your android phone? Ya know I have frequently wondered why the only OBD I cables available have the OBD II connector on the other end. There must be an application somewhere that uses that configuration but I haven't found it yet. But those cables can be used to modify for other equipment and are as low as 2 bucks each. I have a lot of ideas for them and buy them 3 at a time.
Now that I reinstalled a working PROM, I'm not having any troubles with datalogging over Bluetooth. It's still a little finnicky as always, but it's really convenient to be able to datalog on my phone. If I were just using my laptop, the USB cable would definitely be the way to go.
My FSM is back in CA, so I don't have a definitive source (not sure I've ever checked, but I'm assuming they list error codes in there somewhere), but Corvette Central lists the error codes as:
Module 1 CCM
Code Definition
1.1 DISPLAY CCM fault codes
12 On-board diagnostics no codes (this is a good thing: no problem found)
13 DIC switches open or shorted to battery
14 DIC switches shorted to ground
16 Ignition 3 fuse circuit open
21 Horn relay coil shorted to battery or CCM internal open circuit
22 Rear defogger relay coil shorted to battery or CCM internal open circuit
24 Courtesy lamp relay coil shorted to battery or CCM internal open circuit
25 Courtesy lamp relay coil circuit open or shorted to ground
26 LCD blanking control circuit shorted to battery or CCM internal open
27 LCD blanking control circuit open or shorted to ground
31 LCD data circuit shorted to battery or CCM internal open
32 LCD data circuit open or shorted to ground
33 Data clock circuit shorted to battery or CCM internal open circuit
34 Data clock circuit open or shorted to ground
35 Data strobe circuit shorted to battery or CCM internal open circuit
36 Data strobe circuit open or shorted to ground
37 M clock circuit shorted to battery or CCM internal open circuit
38 M clock circuit open or shorted to ground
41 Loss of ECM serial data communications
51 Pass-key invalid key detection
52 Pass-key key detection circuit shorted
53 Pass-key – key detection circuit open or shorted to battery
54 FEDS fuel enable failure
61 Pass-key – key #1 programming resistance out of range
62 Pass-key – key #2 programming resistance out of range
63 Pass-key – key #2 programming resistance low
71 LCD dimming output circuit shorted to battery or CCM internal open circuit
72 LCD dimming output circuit open or shorted to ground
73 LED display dimming output circuit shorted to battery or CCM internal open circuit
74 LED display dimming output circuit open or shorted to ground
Module 4 is ECM
4.0 ECM waiting for interrogation instructions
4.1 display ECM fault codes
ECM Fault Code List
1984-1991 (L98: VIN 8) [codes for other years available at the above link]
Code Definition
12 No Distributor Reference Pulse (this code is displayed only when engine is not running)
13 Oxygen Sensor Open
14 Coolant Sensor High Temp
15 Coolant sensor Low Temp
21 TPS Voltage High
22 TPS Voltage Low
23 MAT Sensor Temp Low
24 Vehicle Speed Sensor
25 MAT Sensor Temp High
32 EGR System Error
33 MAP Sensor Voltage High
34 MAP Sensor Voltage Low
41 Cylinder Select Error
42 EST System Error
43 ESC System Error
44 Oxygen Sensor (System Lean)
45 Oxygen Sensor (System Rich)
46 VATS Error
51 Mem-Cal Error
52 Engine Oil Temp Sensor Low
53 System Voltage Error
54 Fuel Pump Voltage Low
62 Engine Oil Temp Sensor High
Code Definition
1.1 DISPLAY CCM fault codes
12 On-board diagnostics no codes (this is a good thing: no problem found)
13 DIC switches open or shorted to battery
14 DIC switches shorted to ground
16 Ignition 3 fuse circuit open
21 Horn relay coil shorted to battery or CCM internal open circuit
22 Rear defogger relay coil shorted to battery or CCM internal open circuit
24 Courtesy lamp relay coil shorted to battery or CCM internal open circuit
25 Courtesy lamp relay coil circuit open or shorted to ground
26 LCD blanking control circuit shorted to battery or CCM internal open
27 LCD blanking control circuit open or shorted to ground
31 LCD data circuit shorted to battery or CCM internal open
32 LCD data circuit open or shorted to ground
33 Data clock circuit shorted to battery or CCM internal open circuit
34 Data clock circuit open or shorted to ground
35 Data strobe circuit shorted to battery or CCM internal open circuit
36 Data strobe circuit open or shorted to ground
37 M clock circuit shorted to battery or CCM internal open circuit
38 M clock circuit open or shorted to ground
41 Loss of ECM serial data communications
51 Pass-key invalid key detection
52 Pass-key key detection circuit shorted
53 Pass-key – key detection circuit open or shorted to battery
54 FEDS fuel enable failure
61 Pass-key – key #1 programming resistance out of range
62 Pass-key – key #2 programming resistance out of range
63 Pass-key – key #2 programming resistance low
71 LCD dimming output circuit shorted to battery or CCM internal open circuit
72 LCD dimming output circuit open or shorted to ground
73 LED display dimming output circuit shorted to battery or CCM internal open circuit
74 LED display dimming output circuit open or shorted to ground
Module 4 is ECM
4.0 ECM waiting for interrogation instructions
4.1 display ECM fault codes
ECM Fault Code List
1984-1991 (L98: VIN 8) [codes for other years available at the above link]
Code Definition
12 No Distributor Reference Pulse (this code is displayed only when engine is not running)
13 Oxygen Sensor Open
14 Coolant Sensor High Temp
15 Coolant sensor Low Temp
21 TPS Voltage High
22 TPS Voltage Low
23 MAT Sensor Temp Low
24 Vehicle Speed Sensor
25 MAT Sensor Temp High
32 EGR System Error
33 MAP Sensor Voltage High
34 MAP Sensor Voltage Low
41 Cylinder Select Error
42 EST System Error
43 ESC System Error
44 Oxygen Sensor (System Lean)
45 Oxygen Sensor (System Rich)
46 VATS Error
51 Mem-Cal Error
52 Engine Oil Temp Sensor Low
53 System Voltage Error
54 Fuel Pump Voltage Low
62 Engine Oil Temp Sensor High
04-07-2019, 03:36 PM
#8
Drifting
Thread Starter
Just an update, I got the Ostrich working. I realized that in the process of disassembly, I'd flipped one of the switches on the side, which toggles between 24, 28, and 32 pin operation. I reverted it to 28-pin, and it now works while connected over USB. The second I disconnect the cable, the car dies if it's running. Or, if it's key-on-engine-off, disconnecting the cable makes the fan immediately come on, but if I reconnect the USB the fan immediately shuts off.
Unfortunately, the battery is soldered, and it's a specialty battery with leads attached to it (the BR2330a/GAN - the /VAN and /FAN both have the wrong configuration). It's only $2.11 at Digikey, but shipping is $9!
Unfortunately, the battery is soldered, and it's a specialty battery with leads attached to it (the BR2330a/GAN - the /VAN and /FAN both have the wrong configuration). It's only $2.11 at Digikey, but shipping is $9!
04-07-2019, 05:08 PM
#9
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Oct 2002
Location: Las Vegas - Just stop perpetuating myths please.
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Congrats your back on the road. I think your saying the USB cable is the "keep alive" power source now that the batt is dead. Yea $9 for a 55 cent postage is outrageous but I think as long as its affordable they will get it. I want to mention many batteries look to be soldered but maybe spot welded which takes a custom mini spot welder. BATTERIES + PLUS has one and I'm sure they will spot weld yours for another $50 .
Curious what type of Bluetooth adapter you are using and what software on your android phone are you using? I can find OBD II ALDL adapters for nearly 10 bucks but not sure which one will work for OBD I data and software.
.Curious what type of Bluetooth adapter you are using and what software on your android phone are you using? I can find OBD II ALDL adapters for nearly 10 bucks but not sure which one will work for OBD I data and software.
04-08-2019, 12:18 PM
#10
Melting Slicks
It reads like you have the problem source located. I apologize I really don't know much about the Ostrich but it reads like you can use it only for tuning adjustments and you still need to burn a PROM which kinda puts you back on first base for tuning equipment. Moats and Tuner Cats both sell the chip burning hardware or you could source it piece by piece yourself. You gonna need a computer and cable connector that can connect to the OBD I ALCL 12 pin port and convert that serial data to the needs of your laptop serial port. There are some cables on the market for USB but I have an older DELL Latitude laptop with a DB9/RS232 serial port which should be a match for (I'm guessing) your 8190 baud ECM (I hope it's not super 160 baud rate). I got a refurb DELL at a swapmeet for just over $100. But if it's the slower 160 baud you need a converter like: http://www.techedge.com.au/vehicle/aldl8192/8192hw.htm and good luck with that. Regardless I think using legacy hardware to connect and scan/tune is gonna have fewer problems than dealing with Bluetooth and Android converters.
My sympathies. It's kinda interesting piecing together legacy tuner equipment but I'm sure it's no fun when you are under a schedule pressure.
BTW everywhere I look code 41 is a Cylinder Select Error = Faulty or Incorrect MEMCAL. I'm also guessing you are using a OBD I 12 pin connector cable with OBD II 16 pin connector on the other end using the Bluetooth ALDL adapter to feed your android phone? Ya know I have frequently wondered why the only OBD I cables available have the OBD II connector on the other end. There must be an application somewhere that uses that configuration but I haven't found it yet. But those cables can be used to modify for other equipment and are as low as 2 bucks each. I have a lot of ideas for them and buy them 3 at a time.
My sympathies. It's kinda interesting piecing together legacy tuner equipment but I'm sure it's no fun when you are under a schedule pressure.
BTW everywhere I look code 41 is a Cylinder Select Error = Faulty or Incorrect MEMCAL. I'm also guessing you are using a OBD I 12 pin connector cable with OBD II 16 pin connector on the other end using the Bluetooth ALDL adapter to feed your android phone? Ya know I have frequently wondered why the only OBD I cables available have the OBD II connector on the other end. There must be an application somewhere that uses that configuration but I haven't found it yet. But those cables can be used to modify for other equipment and are as low as 2 bucks each. I have a lot of ideas for them and buy them 3 at a time.
I had a code 41 and I had to change my memcal (PROM).
04-08-2019, 10:33 PM
#11
Drifting
Thread Starter
Congrats your back on the road. I think your saying the USB cable is the "keep alive" power source now that the batt is dead. Yea $9 for a 55 cent postage is outrageous but I think as long as its affordable they will get it. I want to mention many batteries look to be soldered but maybe spot welded which takes a custom mini spot welder. BATTERIES + PLUS has one and I'm sure they will spot weld yours for another $50 .
Curious what type of Bluetooth adapter you are using and what software on your android phone are you using? I can find OBD II ALDL adapters for nearly 10 bucks but not sure which one will work for OBD I data and software.
.Curious what type of Bluetooth adapter you are using and what software on your android phone are you using? I can find OBD II ALDL adapters for nearly 10 bucks but not sure which one will work for OBD I data and software.
I'm using the 1320 Electronics adapter, although I hear the Red Devil River unit is functionally the same, just with a shorter cord. I typically datalog on my phone with ALDLDroid (great app with a great developer, I've contacted him multiple times to work out kinks), but it works just fine on TunerPro or DataMaster. The only trick is getting an ADX file that works right - I'd guess USB datalogging sees the same issue, but you need a file that sends a silence command. I got mine from a user named Kawasaki something or other over on Gearhead-EFI (I may have tweaked it a bit).
04-08-2019, 10:43 PM
#12
Drifting
Thread Starter
As promised, an update:
I wasn't able to find the exact battery locally (BR2330A/GAN), or even any variant of the BR2330. However, a place I called carried a slightly different battery, I think the BR2430. Really any 3V coin cell should work, although one with a lower capacity will obviously not last as long. They welded the legs on the battery, desoldered my old one, and attached the new one for just $8!
If you're buying a battery with the pins already on it, I don't think a larger battery will match up to the holes in the PCB, but if you can find somewhere to put pins on a regular old coin cell like I did, a larger battery will make it last longer for a pretty marginal cost difference. Actually, after the fact I read of someone pulling the battery holder out of an old PC motherboard to allow the battery to be easily changed. That seems like it would be the way to go if you could find a battery holder that matched up to the PCB (or if you had the patience of making something else work). I took a quick look at Digikey, but I couldn't find anything that seemed like it had a similar pin configuration.
Anyway, all that to say it works now! What a pain for a $2 battery. It's supposed to last the life of the device (I think Moates says 50yrs or something?), so I'm not sure why it would have crapped out. I'm guessing it has something to do with the corrosion. My case is pretty warped, so moisture should have no trouble at all getting in. I'm thinking of 3D printing a better enclosure including an O-ring groove so I can protect it from future corrosion. Ultimately, it would be nice to hook up a Bluetooth module and completely stow away the device inside the ECM housing, but no time for that now.
I wasn't able to find the exact battery locally (BR2330A/GAN), or even any variant of the BR2330. However, a place I called carried a slightly different battery, I think the BR2430. Really any 3V coin cell should work, although one with a lower capacity will obviously not last as long. They welded the legs on the battery, desoldered my old one, and attached the new one for just $8!
If you're buying a battery with the pins already on it, I don't think a larger battery will match up to the holes in the PCB, but if you can find somewhere to put pins on a regular old coin cell like I did, a larger battery will make it last longer for a pretty marginal cost difference. Actually, after the fact I read of someone pulling the battery holder out of an old PC motherboard to allow the battery to be easily changed. That seems like it would be the way to go if you could find a battery holder that matched up to the PCB (or if you had the patience of making something else work). I took a quick look at Digikey, but I couldn't find anything that seemed like it had a similar pin configuration.
Anyway, all that to say it works now! What a pain for a $2 battery. It's supposed to last the life of the device (I think Moates says 50yrs or something?), so I'm not sure why it would have crapped out. I'm guessing it has something to do with the corrosion. My case is pretty warped, so moisture should have no trouble at all getting in. I'm thinking of 3D printing a better enclosure including an O-ring groove so I can protect it from future corrosion. Ultimately, it would be nice to hook up a Bluetooth module and completely stow away the device inside the ECM housing, but no time for that now.
04-19-2019, 01:41 PM
#13
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Oct 2002
Location: Las Vegas - Just stop perpetuating myths please.
Posts: 7,098
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Thanks, it's good to have it running again.
I'm using the 1320 Electronics adapter, although I hear the Red Devil River unit is functionally the same, just with a shorter cord. I typically datalog on my phone with ALDLDroid (great app with a great developer, I've contacted him multiple times to work out kinks), but it works just fine on TunerPro or DataMaster. The only trick is getting an ADX file that works right - I'd guess USB datalogging sees the same issue, but you need a file that sends a silence command. I got mine from a user named Kawasaki something or other over on Gearhead-EFI (I may have tweaked it a bit).
I'm using the 1320 Electronics adapter, although I hear the Red Devil River unit is functionally the same, just with a shorter cord. I typically datalog on my phone with ALDLDroid (great app with a great developer, I've contacted him multiple times to work out kinks), but it works just fine on TunerPro or DataMaster. The only trick is getting an ADX file that works right - I'd guess USB datalogging sees the same issue, but you need a file that sends a silence command. I got mine from a user named Kawasaki something or other over on Gearhead-EFI (I may have tweaked it a bit).
Phone screens are to small for me.Hope things worked out with your daily driver. Good luck.
04-25-2019, 12:40 PM
#14
Drifting
Thread Starter
I almost forgot to say thanks for the info on Bluetooth scanning. Pretty cool option for OBD I cars. If it runs on Android I expect it should work on tablets too though I don't see it in the literature. Got me shopping for tablet mounts now. Phone screens are to small for me.
Hope things worked out with your daily driver. Good luck.
Phone screens are to small for me.Hope things worked out with your daily driver. Good luck.
I'm pretty sure I've run ALDLDroid on my old Nexus 10, and I see no reason why it shouldn't work on any Android device with a new-ish version of Android. Scaling might be a little funky on a larger screen or one with a weird resolution, but it should at least run. I was positive I'd come across a thread where someone replaced their DIC panel with a Nexus 7 tablet (I think running ALDLDroid), but I couldn't find it.
You can scale dashboard items as big as you want, so if you wanted to try it out on your phone you could make two or three items take up the entire screen for easy visibility (and the different gauge options can be nice visualizers).
Edit for posterity: here's the thread with the Nexus 7 mount. It was in place of the AC/radio, not the DIC. I'm considering replacing the DIC with an OLED display.
Last edited by C4ProjectCar; 01-25-2021 at 02:01 PM.
