tvetta

Does anyone know what the book time is to replace the 4 ujoints at the rear end?
Also, does anyone know what the book time to replace the 2 main ujoints from trans to shaft and shaft to rearend/pumpkin yoke?

3D-Aircrew

It depend upon whether it is a convertible or not. There is a cross-brace that has to come off to get to the driveshaft on verts. I changed the u-joints and bearings on the rear half-shafts an it took a whole day but I'm sure a lift would be very helpful.

Tom400CFI

Mitchell has the axle shafts at 4.4 hours, each side. So 8.8 hours for both rear axle U joints. That is generous, IMO, but it is what it is. A tech could make good $$ on that job.

Drive shaft, they calling for 3.4 hours for both joints. This is on a coupe and doesn't include the x member that a 'Vert would have, nor does it include rusty exhaust hardware.

Tom400CFI

EDIT: I had to do u-joints on mine years ago. I tool the opportunity to drop the whole rear suspension from the slip yoke, back. It made working on it easy, and I was also able to clean the begeezus out of it while it was out. I changed all the u joints, the rear wheel bearings/thrust washers and rear diff lube. A day's work.

BuckeyeROC

I did this on our 86 several weeks ago. Replaced all 4 halfshaft U-joints. In theory, the job is very easy, but like most things on this 33 year old car, getting some things out is tough. 8.8 hours is probably about right for a novice like myself. Just cleaning them up took some time, too.

If you do it yourself and don't have a press, the free to rent AutoZone C-clamp style press worked great for me.

hcbph

I did mine a couple of years ago. I used this thread for info on the u-joint part (includes more than that, just used the needed part).
https://www.digitalcorvettes.com/for...d.php?t=144562

If you do it this way, put a piece of carpet under the car to catch any bolts you drop (which you undoubtedly will). Took me the better part of a day including a couple of hours to deal with a dropped bolt.

I also made a tool to aid removal and install of the u-joints in a hydraulic press and it worked well. It's shown in the thread mentioned (not my thread).

MatthewMiller

Holy crap! If I could ensure five customers a week, I'd quit my job and do this from my garage! I'd probably work 20 hours a week or less.

Tom400CFI

That's what I thought when I read it!

There is another thread on here where Aklim, ChumpVette and others are arguing the reasons why a tech shouldn't/wouldn't work on a C4 (too hard). Really, "hard" isn't a reason if "hard" pays the hours. So really it's about how easily a tech can meet or beat flat rate on a C4 vs. something else. I see rate times like this and I think, Holy chit....bring ME some C4's to work on, please!

BuckeyeROC

I'm no tech, but I can tell you that out of all the cars I've owned and worked on over the years, so far, this C4 is the worst. Almost everything is an absolute fight. And my 69 Mustang was much older. I had a master mechanic at the local Firestone do a complete inspection on the car, but they refuse to work on it, LOL. So far, I've done everything myself.

Tom400CFI

I don't "Get it". Maybe I need to see some of these cars myself? Maybe they're rust belt cars? IDK. Everything I've done to my car, which has been mostly PM and two Opti's, has been a breeze.

You should try replacing cam chain tensioners on a Ford OHC V6. Dumb.

DUMB! I turn down most Phord work at this point, but I'm happy to work on any 'Vette.


I agree with earlier posts that if a tech or shop doesn't want to work on your car (any car), then you don't WANT them working on your car.

slow_zo6

Agree. The C4 is one of the easiest cars to work on in my experience. You want a nightmare? Try a 4th gen f-body. Lol

BuckeyeROC

I had 2 4th gens, one that I modded extensively, they were cake. The only crappy part was almost half the engine was under the windshield.

ctmccloskey

The C4 is in fact one of the best cars I have had the pleasure of working on. I love the access of the clam shell hood. The only thing I found a bit challenging were the brake lines on my 1988 had rusted out where some Bubba put silicone or some other "monkey snot" all over the metal tubing at the point of entry into the box behind the driver where the ABS parts are located. The silicone or whatever it was started corroding the brake lines until one day when I did a brake pressure test by pushing harder than normal and had a line burst right at the point of entry into the ABS system. I am glad it happened in my driveway as I lost all four wheels braking ability when the system burst. I thought that would not happen to ANY car made in the U.S. since 1964 when they mandated the dual master cylinder. Fortunately Classic Tubing sent me a set of replacements for the entire car and with the body on the car they are a PIA to change out.

My 1988 has several "one year only" parts on the brake system starting at the master cylinder. Whomever came up with the idea of having a master cylinder that has one input and one output using two reservoirs was nuts. The ABS is where the brake lines to the wheels originate. On the 1988 it has three outputs, Right Front, Left Front and Rear. This seems kind of Micky Mouse to me but it works. The worst problem I had with the ABS was when the lateral acceleration sensor broke off the corroded aluminum rivet and was swinging around on its wiring harness. That made the car really wonky...

I am glad however that they got rid of that horrible parking brake used before and after on GM vehicles. My car has a cable that pulls the calipers closed when you pull the parking brake handle up. It is far better than the rotor with drum brakes inside. My daughters 2011 Camaro has the same stupid system and it needs work too often to keep it tight and able to hold the car at a stop. Fortunately she goes to school in Florida where the nearest thing to a "hill" are the bridges.

I wish somebody would make an Inboard brake system like the old Jaguars had. The calipers are attached near the differential and it makes pads harder to change but it removes a LOT of weight from the wheels.

Our 1968 C3 is easier to access the engine and I can change all eight spark plugs from the top in less than 20 minutes (IF they are cool). I used a small block in my 1968 C3 while rebuilding the 427 and it was even better on a car designed for the Big block engines to work on. I still believe the C4 is A BEAUTIFUL EXAMPLE of what a Corvette should be and other than a few quirks it is an awesome car to enjoy.

Best Regards,
Chris
P.S. Several of you are right about removing the half shafts being less than 8 hours of work. I have changed both mine out and did it in less than half of that estimated time for the first time on the car I keep a spare set in my Garage for both of my Corvettes. I had problems on my C3 where it was going through the U-joints in 500 miles or less. I have the proper tools and do it all in my garage. I feel better with spare for them. I bought the cores at Corvettes@Carlisle for chump change and sand blasted them, powder coated them and then installed the joints and backing plates. I was going to try drag racing my C3 and figured the spares were a smart idea. They are harder to change on the C4 than the C3 in my humble opinion.

aklim

To be clear, I am saying that if he had a job that paid one hour and he can complete it in 30 mins vs a job that paid one hour and he does in 60 mins, I understand why he'd pick the first job. So yes, if he is more used to working on something else that he can beat flat rate, sure. You like and are used to C4s so you'd rather work on them. He might not care since it is merely a car.

aklim

Why? It pays, doesn't it?

desertguyj

Easy about 4-5 hrs for all 6. Just need a long extension and a giant c-clamp. (Run a cup WAY in while having the joint itself lined up in there then just put in another cup and crank 'er in. Repeat for the rest of them.

Tom400CFI

Because on most Phord jobs, I have a hard time meeting flat rate. So either I eat it, or the phord owner does. Either way, it's a bad deal for both of us.

I know what you're goign to say next...however the C4 doesn't fit ^that^. At least not for me. I can do most jobs on a C4 way faster than book. I think the book is quite generous for a C4, so why would I turn that down. If I had a Vette job that paid one hour and I can complete it in 30 mins vs a Phord job that paid one hour and I do in 60 mins, I understand why I'd definitely NOT turn down the Vette job.

HotIguana

Just had rear left axle u-joints done (inside & out) on my '87...garage charged 4.5 hours...
I should have done it myself! but I am sure it would have taken all day.

The trick is to have a 18" extension for you socket set so ease of access to the inner is better ...I should go buy one now!

aklim

And my MB specialist also feels that he can do an MB job and beat book time more consistently than a GM or Ford. Hence he refuses to work on them as a side job. My Ford friends also tell me they beat book regularly and usually flags about 40 to 50 hours a week consistently. The alignment guy probably felt the same way about the C4 alignment job except he was not discreet enough when he wanted to turn it down.

Tom400CFI

IDK what your's saying there...but I'm not a 'Vette "specialist". I work on everything....except most Ford stuff.

My point was the favorable rate for u-joints and...ahhh...never mind.