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Renegade Intake

 
Old 06-23-2019, 11:38 PM
  #21  
GregMartin
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Originally Posted by James C4 View Post
@GregMartin okay. Thank you. That was kind of a stupid question. I should obviously just look at the old ones.
No stupid questions just stupid answers. I did know at one point Iíve just forgotten. Also I looked for the YouTube on lining up the oil pump with the distributor but couldnít find it. Basically you find a spot where the distributor will engage with the oil pump and either itís where you want the rotor or itís not. If it is happy days if the oil pump has moved then I turn the rotor counter clockwise allowing the distributor housing to rise and then drop onto the next tooth of the gear. I canít remember but after 6 or 7 times it engages with the oil pump. Each time you do it the oil pump moves 15 Deg so you keep doing it until the rotor is where you want it. There are other methods but that one has worked for me many times.
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Old 06-23-2019, 11:43 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by James C4 View Post
@Buccaneer I notice as I"m looking to buy new seals that I can get the fel pro ones but cannot find the one for the top plate by itself. I do not want to buy extra gaskets, or is that why you told me to use blue Permatex on the top plate?
They make one for the standard intake lid but itís a different shape and doesnít fit (ask me how I know). The blue Permatex works well though.
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Old 06-24-2019, 01:06 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by GregMartin View Post
They make one for the standard intake lid but it’s a different shape and doesn’t fit (ask me how I know). The blue Permatex works well though.
I used copper permatex, just make sure it can take some heat and is oil resistant and it will work. Also, take your tablet or cellphone (take lots of pictures) with you if you are going to do it yourself. And, as has been stated, you NEED a shop manual, you really do. You will be referencing it to work on your 84 all the time. And if you think you can balance the throttle bodies without a shop manual, you are a better man than me. Look up some youtube videos on how to make a manometer. Simple simple. Just don't hook it into the wrong vacuum port like I did, and all my fluid got sucked into the intake, lol!!

Last edited by MsEllie; 06-24-2019 at 01:09 AM.
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Old 06-24-2019, 03:04 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by MsEllie View Post
I used copper permatex, just make sure it can take some heat and is oil resistant and it will work. Also, take your tablet or cellphone (take lots of pictures) with you if you are going to do it yourself. And, as has been stated, you NEED a shop manual, you really do. You will be referencing it to work on your 84 all the time. And if you think you can balance the throttle bodies without a shop manual, you are a better man than me. Look up some youtube videos on how to make a manometer. Simple simple. Just don't hook it into the wrong vacuum port like I did, and all my fluid got sucked into the intake, lol!!
I think I have the whole Permatex range. I have ultra black, blue, gray and copper. I guess itís worth mentioning that sensor safe silicone is a must for these cars. I used blue ( or maybe ultra blue ) on the plenum lid; ultra black on the china walls (buccaneer recommends The Right Stuff so thatís a good tip) and around the water galleries on the intake and other places like the timing cover; gray on the water pump; copper on the exhaust gaskets and flange gaskets.
Oh and the Manometer, even connected to the correct port you need to be careful, 6Ē of water is not much on the sucking scale.
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Old 06-24-2019, 06:05 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by James C4 View Post
@Buccaneer I notice as I"m looking to buy new seals that I can get the fel pro ones but cannot find the one for the top plate by itself. I do not want to buy extra gaskets, or is that why you told me to use blue Permatex on the top plate?
The top plate shape for the renegade is different than stock and thus the gaskets do not work. You have to use rtv.
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Old 06-24-2019, 12:53 PM
  #26  
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^^^THIS^^^
It works just fine. At one time I attempted to do a gasket project and finally just let it go. Maybe in the future I will revisit it and see if I should. I have a friend here in the valley that bought our manifold for his 82 that he was building. He didn't like that there wasn't a gasket so he had his manifold base machined with a groove and then used an o-ring to use as a gasket. It worked great, but the cost of the machining and finding the material and making your own gasket was a bit of a PITA if I remember correctly. If you really want a gasket which is a weak point for that type of manifold, you could make one out of a large sheet of material if you can find the right one big enough. That is one reason we never came out with one since they tend to become brittle over time and leak. The sealant and o-ring would be the best IMO. I have never had an issue with mine and have it off many times.

Last edited by Buccaneer; 06-24-2019 at 12:55 PM.
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Old 06-24-2019, 02:48 PM
  #27  
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I prefer the RTV by itself even on my stock CFI manifold top plate. There are a few spots where the gasket is really, really skinny, and a likely spot for a vacuum leak to develop.

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Old 06-24-2019, 03:13 PM
  #28  
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Youíve made a good choice with the Renegade from a performance standpoint. You will be happy with the improvement, at least I was on a stock engine with 1.6 rockers, an 85 fuel pump, and adjustable pressure regulator. Buccaneers cautions are well advised, and without his help my install would have been much more difficult. My top plate was so misaligned it was unusable, and the second manifold was only marginally better. The base holes were drilled through, and The air pump mounting point drilled at an angle on both units and I ended up deleting the air pump out of necessity. Eddie Motorsports was a nightmare to deal with directly and was in deep denial. The Summit suggestion is great advice to avoid direct interface with EM. I did have to machine the outer edge of the valve covers on the upper side to provide clearance for stock valve cover install. Good luck!

Last edited by garyc4; 06-24-2019 at 03:48 PM.
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Old 06-24-2019, 11:15 PM
  #29  
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@GregMartin @MsEllie @84 4+3 @Buccaneer @Hot Rod Roy Thank you for the info on getting it all sealed up. I appreciate it. One more thing though, do I need to buy gaskets for the throttle bodies? I notice that on the kit from RockAuto there are two gaskets and I'm guessing that's what they are for. Here's a link to the kit. Not what I'm going to buy, but just a reference. Link

@garyc4 Thanks for the encouragement and maybe I'll get lucky and end up with a better manifold than you.

Thanks,
James
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Old 06-24-2019, 11:31 PM
  #30  
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Yes, I would replace the TB base gaskets if they have been on there a while, they are cheap. I plan on having ALL the TB gaskets available on my site in due time and have finished all the gasket files for the laser. Now, I just need to be able to use/schedule it, that's the hard part that is plaguing me.
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Old 06-25-2019, 05:04 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by James C4 View Post
@GregMartin @MsEllie @84 4+3 @Buccaneer @Hot Rod Roy Thank you for the info on getting it all sealed up. I appreciate it. One more thing though, do I need to buy gaskets for the throttle bodies? I notice that on the kit from RockAuto there are two gaskets and I'm guessing that's what they are for. Here's a link to the kit. Not what I'm going to buy, but just a reference. Link

@garyc4 Thanks for the encouragement and maybe I'll get lucky and end up with a better manifold than you.

Thanks,
James
Make sure you post your progress. Iíll be interested in seeing your achievements. I think there is a great deal of satisfaction to be had in doing a job like this and then reaping the benefits. I wish you all the best and remember help is just a post away. There are some really knowable and helpful people on this board, they have helped me a lot and you have already met a few of them.
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Old 06-25-2019, 09:40 PM
  #32  
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@GregMartin thank you. I'll definitely let you guys know how it goes.
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Old 06-28-2019, 10:49 PM
  #33  
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The intake came into today but there are some things that worry me and make me think I'll have to send it back. Let me know what you guys think.


There is a gouge in the surface. Is this okay?

Is this lip supposed to be here or should it be smooth?


As you can see, the threads aren't quite centered. Is this okay?


Is the top plate supposed to be off like this?


Same question as the last one.


Same question about the top plate.


There is a random little hole in the center of the picture. If you can see it, what is it?


This gasket matches this side perfectly.


This gasket is a bit off. Is this okay or would it blow it?

Last edited by James C4; 06-28-2019 at 10:51 PM.
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Old 06-28-2019, 11:46 PM
  #34  
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you can tweak the gasket bolt holes if need be, the plate start the bolts by hand as a test fit see how it goes.
Small blames or scratches I wouldnt worry about
What brand/pn gasket is that?
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Old 06-29-2019, 01:32 AM
  #35  
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How much work will it take to have the manifold ports match the head ports?

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Old 06-29-2019, 01:21 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by James C4 View Post
The intake came into today but there are some things that worry me and make me think I'll have to send it back. Let me know what you guys think.


There is a gouge in the surface. Is this okay?

Is this lip supposed to be here or should it be smooth?


As you can see, the threads aren't quite centered. Is this okay?


Is the top plate supposed to be off like this?


Same question as the last one.


Same question about the top plate.


There is a random little hole in the center of the picture. If you can see it, what is it?


This gasket matches this side perfectly.


This gasket is a bit off. Is this okay or would it blow it?
That looks much closer than mine was... I'd move the intake gasket down some... the top on the one side is barely sealing but other wise it looks okay.
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Old 06-29-2019, 04:30 PM
  #37  
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IMO, if this was mine I would send it back ASAP! It is NOT machined properly at all, end of story. The dizzy hole machining is not even close and the EGR is wrong along with other issues including the top plate. The cosmetic things are not biggy and you can take a 40grit sanding block and go over it on the flanges and it will look fine, but the rest is not right. I'm very disappointed in their machining capability and it's my opinion that it is **** poor at this point. I'm sorry you got this and they sent it out looking like that.
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Old 06-29-2019, 05:28 PM
  #38  
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I would return it. Same reasons as Buccaneer has already given. Eddie Motorsports has two problems. (1) They evidently possess little to no machining capability, and (2) they have no corporate quality control standards. Result: they make defective manifolds, and then compound the problem by knowingly shipping them to customers. What can you say? Their product speaks for itself. Happened to me. Great manifold design, by Buccaneer, poorly manufactured by Eddie Motorsports. Stick with it, with patience youíll get one thatís acceptable, and itís worth it. EM will presumably address their issues if their scrap rate (and therefore costs) reach a certain level. At least thatís what most companies learn...

Last edited by garyc4; 06-29-2019 at 05:40 PM.
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Old 06-29-2019, 06:30 PM
  #39  
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Wow thatís disappointing. Did you buy it from Summit like Buccaneer suggested? If so should be no problem to get another. I canít believe the problems people have had. In blind faith I had on shipped to Australia and it was machined spot on. Iím beginning to think that I was hit up the *** with a rainbow 🌈😂😂😂😂
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Old 06-29-2019, 06:44 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by GregMartin View Post
Wow thatís disappointing. Did you buy it from Summit like Buccaneer suggested? If so should be no problem to get another. I canít believe the problems people have had. In blind faith I had on shipped to Australia and it was machined spot on. Iím beginning to think that I was hit up the *** with a rainbow 🌈😂😂😂😂
Toss that my way when you get a chance... I'm eventually going to order another one.
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