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Btw, I talked to Dakota Digital's tech and he said only one SG1-100BT box is required for both the tach and speedo. They have them in stock right now too. Mine just shipped on Friday.
Thanks, I planned out all the connections in advance and triple and quadruple checked them. I hate having electrical issues so I hope I did it all right. I'm seriously close to starting it up, but will be on vacation next week. Hoping by the end of the month.....
Well vacations are important too, hope yours is a fun one. I'm on vaction now also. If i hadn't been away I would have helped my buddy at the shop pull my engine + trans out yesterday as he wanted a second set of hands to do it. We still have to paint/PC all the mounts and fabbed pieces before putting everything back together the final time and wiring it all, but it will have to wait until after he comes back from having a baby now.
Can't wait to see you get your started! Its going to be awesome.
I got my custom 4 corner steam vent system installed this week. Also recieved the correct starter relay plug so I hope to install that after vacation. AND need to figure out where to run another vacuum for the holley map sensor. Or configure the software to use an external map sensor. The wiring harness is set up for one and ive plugged the ls2 port with a used one. But I'm willing to bet the built in holley sensor is more accurate than anything else. You guys have thoughts?
Hey Bandit buddy, you get your car done? You putting a ton of miles in? Just re-read the thread some and noticed that you are running a vapor/steam line to your heater diverter valve. Just throwing this out there but I ran mine into the top rad hose coming off the thermostat. I've also seen people tap a line into the top of the thermostat housing.
Its awesome that you got your AC on, curious on how its been working for you. I just drive my car with the top off and it hasn't been above 70 deg's here yet, so AC isn't really needed yet.
Hey Bandit buddy, you get your car done? You putting a ton of miles in? Just re-read the thread some and noticed that you are running a vapor/steam line to your heater diverter valve. Just throwing this out there but I ran mine into the top rad hose coming off the thermostat. I've also seen people tap a line into the top of the thermostat housing.
Its awesome that you got your AC on, curious on how its been working for you. I just drive my car with the top off and it hasn't been above 70 deg's here yet, so AC isn't really needed yet.
No the last picture shows where i am as far as progress. I wont be back at it til next week as i am on vacation. I intentionally ran the steam lines to the diverter valve as it seems to be the cleanest way of running them. A/C is another deal that I'll finalize once the engine is running. There is a place down the street that makes custom hoses and i am considering building my own, buying the appropriate hoses and screw clamps and reusing the factory fittings. I factored that in when i bought this particular compressor to save having to use adapters.
Your wiring harness quality looks outstanding. I'm pretty impressed, My fast harness is the worst and I can't believe that they would sell it in that fashion. Have an awesome holiday buddy, thanks for responding.
Well I'm back from a full week in Hilton Head SC and 2 days in Pigeon Forge TN. It was great to be at the beach and eat lots of seafood. I am off work tomorrow and am going to get after it as much as possible. Things to achieve tomorrow:
Torque convertor bolts
Starter & solder in new pigtail
Transmission cooler lines
Permanent trans dipstick mount
If more time allows I'll be going after the intake install. I need to install a hose fitting in the intake to install a vacuum hose that goes to the holley map sensor which is located in the original computers location (which means a vacuum hose into the cockpit). The holley wiring harness has a connection for an external map sensor, and the wiring reaches the front of the dorman LS2 intake where the original map would be located. I am going to install a map sensor I had laying around, onto the intake to plug the hole, but it will be modified so that the actual electrical connection is not made. This way the holley wiring connection will look correct and there won't be a weatherpak connection dangling around in the engine compartment. I could cut it off and tape off where it exits the harness but I don't want to do that just yet. Options......
I was able to get the first 3 items accomplished although my flaring tool screwed up the end that goes to the top of the radiator. For the moment I'll just use a hose barb at the radiator and 4 clamp a piece of rubber hose to the cooling line and hose barb. Also drilled and tapped for 1/8" NPT on the back of the intake for a 1/4" hose barb; there is a small screw that you remove and just drill it out. Easy work on a plastic intake. This will feed the MAP sensor located on the Holley ECU. Ran that hose and hooked it up to the ECU. Also discovered that the power brake vacuum barb built into the intake is more like 1/2", not the typical 3/8" that usually feeds a power brake booster. So I took a 1/2" drill and worked the end of a piece of 3/8" rubber hose a little and it does go onto the barb. Must be an LS thing? I'll get some pics later tonight or tomorrow.
I cant believe I just spent 82 bucks on a throttle cable and bracket. Guess thats the price you pay for extras on an ls swap. Missing the good ol days
BUT I did get the dakota digital sgi-100bt box this week so maybe I can get the rest of the wiring finished which includes speedo, tach and AC kick/relay. Start up is scheduled for sometime end of month. Cant wait!
Last edited by banditt1979; Aug 20, 2020 at 07:18 PM.
I'm very interested to see how you handle all the A/C wiring.
Thanks, I used the hoses recommended by corvette central and only had to trim about 3 inches off the top hose at the radiator. I also reused the spring from my original lower hose in the new one. The AC is pretty straightforward, the clutch wire comes from the end of the pressure switches from circuit # 959, or the 'C' terminal from the 3 wire connector under the passenger side dash. I verified that this terminal provides a +12 volt power when the pressure switches are "closed" and the climate control is set to AC. Also the wiring diagrams lead back to a 25amp fuse which should be plenty for the newer compressor. To let the holley computer know its on I'll wire in a relay off the same wire that goes to the clutch to provide a ground for the ac kick. I'll draw up a wiring diagram and post it.
Thanks, I used the hoses recommended by corvette central and only had to trim about 3 inches off the top hose at the radiator. I also reused the spring from my original lower hose in the new one. The AC is pretty straightforward, the clutch wire comes from the end of the pressure switches from circuit # 959, or the 'C' terminal from the 3 wire connector under the passenger side dash. I verified that this terminal provides a +12 volt power when the pressure switches are "closed" and the climate control is set to AC. Also the wiring diagrams lead back to a 25amp fuse which should be plenty for the newer compressor. To let the holley computer know its on I'll wire in a relay off the same wire that goes to the clutch to provide a ground for the ac kick. I'll draw up a wiring diagram and post it.
Does your car have the C68 Auto climate control or the manual Version?
New cheapie chinese double flaring tool solved the issue of flaring the trans fluid line at the top of the radiator. So I should be able to finish the trans cooler install this weekend and get the intake bolted down. Then I realized I had no way to connect my laptop to the terminator ECU since it requires a CAN to USB cable. Another 60 bucks but had to have it to download my custom global file which contains the speedo output I programmed, the injector info (the siemens/deka injectors are not listed in the software so I had to go custom there too) and the IAT sensor (the basic tune is for a MAT - manifold air temperature - sensor that is located in the intake; IAT - intake air temperature - sensor I am using will be closer to the air filters so you have to tell the ECU where the sensor is located. Throttle cable and bracket and the CAN cable should be here sunday, I hear its a lot of fun to change the throttle cable
Drilled and tapped intake for 1/4" vacuum hose for holley MAP sensor Custom vacuum connection for climate control system (1/8" hole drilled into vacuum line for power brakes)
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