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Yes, when I start it cold it idles high and comes down to a normal idle. I cleaned the throttle body with it on the car because there was carbon buildup around the blades.
Yes, when I start it cold it idles high and comes down to a normal idle. I cleaned the throttle body with it on the car because there was carbon buildup around the blades.
Did you take the IAC, iac housing and the top plate off to clean? Reassemble with new gaskets? Doesn't sound like it
I haven't checked that but that's a good idea. That should come out easy I would think. No more than I have to open the throttle I would think the IAC should do the same thing.
I haven't checked that but that's a good idea. That should come out easy I would think. No more than I have to open the throttle I would think the IAC should do the same thing.
It's amazing how much crap accumulates there. Let us know how you make out.
No, I haven't done that! I just sprayed Throttle body cleaner in it while it was on the car.
The real cleaning comes when you take the TB off the car. You have to remove the 4 bolts that hold it on, take the coolant hoses off and take the IAC off, remove the torx bolts that hold the plate down and the IAC housing. Clean all passages. At this time, you can do the coolant bypass to make it easier to get to things without the hose in the way. Cleaned, you can reassemble.
This is a scan I did back in January. I let the car idle until it reached 200° and then let it sit for 20 minutes. This scan is when I am trying to start the engine and it's taking extra cranking time to start. I don't know where the IAC should be at this point. I installed a new thermostat and CTS today and it did not help the problem. I guess the next step is to remove the IAC and clean it and the air passages. Thanks for all the suggestions so far!
Your O2 voltage is zeroed out. If you leave the key on, will the O2s warm up with the engine off? You want to be able to see what they read when you crank and initially fire up.
The O2's don't have an impact on starting. As a matter of fact the ECM disregards O2 output until it goes into closed loop conditions. Frankly, I'm seeing very little jumping out at me.
Let's remember, no driveability issues. Just longer crank until the pedal is touched. What I'd like to see is a snap shot engine cold before starting. But again, not a big deal. Just curious to see if there's a difference in data.
The O2's don't have an impact on starting. As a matter of fact the ECM disregards O2 output until it goes into closed loop conditions. Frankly, I'm seeing very little jumping out at me.
Let's remember, no driveability issues. Just longer crank until the pedal is touched. What I'd like to see is a snap shot engine cold before starting. But again, not a big deal. Just curious to see if there's a difference in data.
While the O2s don't influence the engine starting, they may still show if there's a rich or lean condition when cranking. OP are you able to get a 2D graph over time with your scanner? Or maybe even shoot a video of the software as you crank?
The real cleaning comes when you take the TB off the car. You have to remove the 4 bolts that hold it on, take the coolant hoses off and take the IAC off, remove the torx bolts that hold the plate down and the IAC housing. Clean all passages. At this time, you can do the coolant bypass to make it easier to get to things without the hose in the way. Cleaned, you can reassemble.
I've ordered a gasket kit and will do this next week. What is the coolant bypass, never heard of it?
Designer Imagines A Corvette That Looks More Like a Corvette Than the Corvette
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