..... BMH is the stiffest ... BMF is next .....

 

I used a stright axle.

 

What tire pressure were you running?
I run my r888rs at 20-22 psi.

 

20 psi

the R888R is slightly better for straight line traction

(well it says it has 10% greater straight line traction contact patch)

 

It's a good tire for sure. I am in the street and roll racing crowd and they suit me well for that but I know a lot of guys that run them and they say there are a lot better tires out there for drag strip use. The r888r sidewall is still pretty stiff. I might try the Proxes TQ next or just switch to a Mickey DR. I bought mine really cheap but they are 275/40/17s. Got them for 170 each installed.

I plan on getting some front adjustable drag shocks soon to help maintain the weight transfer. Just have to do a little research on which ones will fit.

What gear are you running? Those shifts seem pretty quick. I am just getting into 4th a little after the 1000' mark with my 3.54s but I do spin it to 6600-6700 before I shift.

My last run on the track was last September and ran 12.0 at 121 w/ 2.0 60'. At the same weight using the dragy earlier this spring after faceplating the trans it ran 11.85 @121 w/ 2.0 60'. Both runs being in similar ~2600 DA. I have since taken another ~150 lbs out of the car and want to see what she will do but the track is closed and my test spot has a bunch of apartments being built next to it so it isn't safe to run there anymore.

You are making killer power pulling that mph in your full weight (afaik) car. Mine was about 3250 with me in at the last time at the track. So should be around 3100 lbs with me in it now.
Edit: make that ~3050lbs as I myself have lost ~50lbs since last September.

 

P315/35R17 rear toyo r888
stock D44 with 3.45:1 rear gear -ill
prob leave it alone

i have bilstein z51 shocks all around.

at some point im due for a shock change.
Any tips on what I should run (and how to have them setup) so I can try to be the jack of all trades , Id like to know

im not opposed to going to a better rear tire for drag traction.

 

You will find yourself adjusting shocks depending on what you're doing. You will want document settings, so you can return them to your normal driving settings when you done playing.
Making quick disconnect for front stabilizer bar.
Shocks is a budget thing. You want shock to allow extension and resist compression holding front end up. Not really you want for normal driving or auto x. Because of the IRS you're will have split settings right and left, and it take a few test tune days to sort it out a notebook to document adjustments and results. Since you 60ft is your problem, that should be the focus. You could find deserted highway and old school it. Using a stop watch until you feel your ready to make a full pass at the track.

 

We will both need some tips. All I know is I want some inexpensive 3 way adjustable shocks so I can go 90/10 on the front and 30/70 on the rear and then be able to set them back to close to 50/50 for the street. I know there are some threads about this but I haven't read them in a while.

 

I would start with adding air (30psi) and see how it acts.
Also, check all mounts,
If orig. rubber, consider poly bushings.
Have you added any extentions to your snubbers to limit axle travel?
Last, but IMO most important, look up rklessdriver post on how to set up a d44 for drag racing.
2 things you really need to keep a eye on.
Limited Slip clutches. Rklessdriver posted how to check.....
Axle u-joints.
Trust me, if either of these come apart, and they will, drag racing, if not keep fresh and tight. It gets real expensive fast, especially if you have to pay someone to repair.

 

-d44 mounts are poly.
-the whole rear is banski heim joints (no rubber bushings)
-front motor mounts are solid
-1.25” extensions to snubbers
-just checked both sides limited slip clutches > 100 ft lbs breakaway (ie. My lug nuts torqued to 100 ft lbs loosened up when I applied a torque wrench to them with that wheel jacked up and the other on the ground)
-axle u joints all the tougher old style (ie. No grease fittings).

 

And obviously the transmission in neutral, correct?

 

no in neutral the rear wheel thats off the ground just spins with little to no resistance

so i did it with it in first.

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by dizwiz24

no in neutral the rear wheel thats off the ground just spins with little to no resistance

so i did it with it in first.

Then its wore out. What you are looking for is how much pressure it takes to break one wheel from the other. Its done in neutral.

Trust me, you want to have clutch packs replaced before it lets go. Been there done that.

 

If you go to the below link, then look at post 11. Will explains how to check.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-question.html

On another forum, he posted a rebuild of the carrier installing clutch packs. If you want to see it, let me know and I will pm the link.

 

Put the transmissiotn in neutral, jack one rear wheel off the ground. Measure the breakaway torque on the axle that is in the air.

 

Seems like wheel hop to me. Usually a sign of the shock dampening not being able to control the spring and tire.

If you are going to buy new shocks, look at the Viking Crusaders. I'd run the AM valving on the rear. On the front I'd run the Viking Warriors with the standard valving package that comes in them. This is the same shock package I ran on my 84 when it still had IRS and it's the shock package I have put on a number of drag race C4s and it has worked well into the 8 second range. If you buy the Vikings I can give you good baseline adjustments to start and tuning help afterwards.

Tire wise. The Mickey Thompson PN 3571 is the best 315/35R17 in existence. You can street drive in good weather but It's a drag racing tire 100%. The PN 3471 is the best street/race tire. Either are going to be night and day better than your current tire. If you really want to kill it at the track, buy a set of 15" wheels and put a 26x10 stiff wall slick Mickey Thompson PN 3053-S on the car.
Will

 

Great info on the shocks. can these then be dialed back to settings that will be good for the street / road course type racing?
Do they need to be removed to make adjustments? Or are they adjusted easily with them installed in the car?


As for tires. My biggest decision is whether I stick with P315/35R17 (I have an extra set of '96 grand sport OEM 17x11's in my barn) or do I go to 15" (like I see the 800+ rwhp performance cars run). I would have to drive it 50 miles each way to the track (and home) like that, so I worry about 'squirrely' handling on 15". But maybe its a non-issue when being careful.

Next. In the old days here (you prob remember them), there were constant horror stories about people blowing up their D44 at the track. Ive already extended the bump stops about an inch. I think you once told me that if I want some degree of insurance, to stay in the P315/35R17 family of drag tires and not the slicks .... (but then again I want to give these Teslas running 10.80 a run for the money.....)

My car is a D44 6spd.

 

The shocks will drive on the street fine but the valving difference between front and rear will not work well on a road course. You could just run the Viking Warriors on the rear as well and they are fine for slower cars but its not the best for real high power drag racing or the type of loads placed by a stick shift. They will certainly be better than what you have.

The folks destroying D44s back then had stock soft suspension and were dead hooking the tire on a clutch dump which destroys everything. Also no one bothered to check their Track Loks....

You are certainly not going to street drive 50miles on 26x10 slicks. Id say get the best 315/17 on the car.
Will

 

I drive full time, st and fwy on M/T 275/50/15 drag radials they arent squirrely in the least
Youll want around a 8 to 8.5" rim;lotsa fun, feels like an electric car they stick pretty well.
E/T street SS I believe