Storz

Its not slipping or anything, but you really have to push it all the way to the floor to shift, and then the shifter feels notchy. The first half of the clutch stroke feels spongy also. I am going to check the fluid levels this weekend in the OD unit, but how do you check it in the actual trans?
Thanks

bogus

check the hydraulics. that sounds less like a clutch and more like a low fluid condition.


[Modified by bogus, 5:34 PM 2/23/2003]

Davemc1963-87conv

Sounds like you need to change/bleed your clutch hydraulic fluid.
The gearbox has a filler/level plug on the side, like the OD unit. :steering:

Storz

Cool thanks for the info, this weekend once I get back home I am going to check it. :cheers:

Storz

I just checked the clutch fluid resevoir, its about 1mm below the lower of the two lines that are on it, the car is cold if that means anything.

NightRyder

I'm watching this with interest, because that sounds just like my car.

Davemc1963-87conv

I believe the level should be at or near to the top mark. If your pedal is spongy, the fluid usually needs changing/bleeding. If your fluid has been in there for more than a couple of years, it should be changed anyway. Brake and clutch fluid DOT J1703 is hygroscopic and absorbs moisture. That is why it should be changed at least every two years. (I know we don't always do this !) but the moisture in the system helps to degrade performance and corrode the internals of the system. In extreme cases where temps. get very hot, the temp of the fluid is high enough that the moisture in the fluid boils or turns to vapour and thats when you end up with no brakes/clutch unless you pump several times. Air in the system also causes this, but the potential danger is still the same.
If I were you, I would flush and bleed your system. :steering:

sundbergjc

Can this also cause the pedal to feel heavy? I realize heavy is a relative term, but I sure hate sitting in traffic with that thing pushed in all the time. Wears me out!

Storz

How hard is it to bleed the system yourself and replace the fluid? Do you need any special tools?

LT4BUD

I am not sure on the vette, but on my other vehicle it required replacement of the diaphrams in the clutch hydraulics, actually replaced the entire assembly. I replaced both the slave and master cylinders.

When it got real bad the clutch wouldn't totally disengage and it became difficult to shift it into gear.

When it got real bad, you could push the clutch in & hold it there and pretty soon the clutch would start engaging and the car would start moving forward.

Sounds like more than low fluid, I am not expert but my quess is you will need to replace or rebuild the clutch cylinders.

Davemc1963-87conv

Its easy enough with two people. (one to press the pedal and one to open and close the bleed nipple) You'll need a ring spanner (Hex wrench?) can;t remember, but I think its 11mm or 7/16" and a length of hose to fit tightly on the bleed nipple. oh yes and a jar to bleed the fluid into.
Best bet if you've not done this before, is to remove most of the old fluid from the master cylinder with a turkey baster or a syringe, or even with an absorbant lint free kitchen towel at a push, but not letting air get into the system.
Then fill up the reservoir with fresh fluid. then fix the wrench to the bleed nipple and crack it slightly to make sure it is free. Give it a gentle nip back up and push on the hose. Have the other end of the hose in the jar. Have your assistant ready to press the pedal. (Good communication is important here) When you say PRESS DOWN, the assistant presses the pedal. You open the bleed nipple (1/3-1/2 a turn is usually enough) at the same time and expell the old fluid into the jar. When the pedal is down the assistant says DOWN and keeps it down until you nip up the nipple. Then you shout UP. and the assistant STEADILY lets the pedal come back up. (the fluid level drops at this point) You repeat this procedure until the fluid comes through clean and without any bubbles. MAKE SURE TO CHECK AND TOP UP THE RESERVOIR LEVEL AFTER EVERY TWO OR THREE PEDAL STROKES. OR YOU WILL SUCK AIR IN AND HAVE TO START ALL OVER AGAIN! (Don't forget to tighten up the nipple at the end)
I needed to get underneath to do my 87. But it isn't a difficult job.
If this dosn't fix it, you may need to rebuild the master & slave cylinders. They are aluminium and often suffer from internal corrosion/erosion so don't always successfully rebuild. but considering the price of new cylinders, its worth a go.
Sorry if a bit long winded, hope it helps.

Storz

Not a problem at all,thanks a ton and I am going to do it this weekend :cheers:

CentralCoaster

Yeah, could be the nasty fluid, is it blackish looking?

I heard somewhere that the clutch cylinder is self-bleeding, and that all was needed was a flush and refill... and the air would purge out on its own. Can anyone confirm this?

Storz

:yesnod: the fluid is nasty looking, how much does the system take? I want to change it this weekend

Davemc1963-87conv

The system only holds about 1/3 a pint if that, but you always end up using more to ensure the system is flushed. I wouldn't start without a quart if you haven't done it before. When bleeding try to make sure the bleed nipple is at the top of the slave cylinder to ensure all air is expelled. :steering:


[Modified by Davemc1963-87conv, 8:46 PM 2/25/2003]