87bob

Building a stroker should I go the distance for the studs over factory bolts?

mtwoolford

studs, if designed to mount a windage tray, offer a range of adjustability which might be a needed with a longer stroke crank.

Deakins

Are we talking for the main caps, head bolts, oil pan, or valve covers here? Or all? If they are in the budget fine, if not I wouldn't sacrifice quality parts for them on an engine that will not be getting torn down a lot. Just my .02

383vett

If you're talking about studs for the heads, I don't believe the heads will clear the power brake booster if studs are used. Bummer to have to pull the motor to remove a head.

93 ragtop

Quote:

Originally Posted by 383vett

If you're talking about studs for the heads, I don't believe the heads will clear the power brake booster if studs are used. Bummer to have to pull the motor to remove a head.

Just use ARP bolts for the heads.

hemivett

Same here. ARP bolts are good to like 200,000lbs. Technically studs are ment for racing engines, that are being constantly taken apart. If you use ARP bolts, you'll never have to worry about it, till the cam is flat, and she's blowing smoke. Even then you could still reuse them, since the aren't torque to yield bolts like the factory pieces. h

84wannabezo6

My machinist said that using studs for the 4 bolt main block Im using would need align bore but with the arp bolts not necessarily.