Z-PDX

After much fighting, finally got this sucker changed.

Its really quite interesting. In the manual, its 5 or 7 steps and seems to be about a 15 minute job. The reality, for me, was a week of gathering tools and info.

So, as you know, after locating a 36mm socket, the next challenge is busting loose the three T-55 Torx that need to be accessed from the rear. Well T-55 is on a 3/8" drive so how snug can these suckers be.

We after practically hanging from my 1.5 foot long breaker bar to get the lower two off, I realized the answer is: Pretty darn snug.

The top one was mocking me though. Couldn't get a breaker bar in there around the half-shaft. Pulled the shock, pulled the exhaust tip. Jacked the knuckle up, jacked the knuckle down. Nothing.

OK. This calls for air tools. No problem. Du-du-du-du-du-du-du.... My little cheap-butt Taiwan 1/2" impact wrench is doing less than nothing. The bolt continues to mock me.

OK. This calls for BIGGER tools. And since any opportunity to buy BIGGER tools is appreciated, I stepped up to the challenge. I come back with my new Snap-On impact wrench rated to 440 ft./lbs. of torque.

I expected the bolt to wither at the mere sight of my new pneumatic marvel, but it did not. As a matter of fact, the new wrench wouldn't really fit in the available space. I briefly considered reaching for the oxy-fuel, but I resisted.

With a little lube and a little love, I managed to get the new (big) air wrench in position. then with the 3/8" T-55 bit attached to a 5" extension, attached to a 3/8" to 1/2" adapter, attached to a 1/2" universal attached to the tool, I hit the magic button....

Du-du-du-du-du-du-du-du-du-du..... Nothing.

Hmmm.... OK. 155 psi at the tool. Good, but not optimal. All dials to 11? Right.

This calls for consultation before doing anything rash... Hello Robert (Mechanic friend) Yeah its Z. Tell him whole story... Long Pause. Short Answer: Heat. Um, dude its aluminum..... Heat, he says again. Not too much maybe 150 degrees. No more like 120.... Not having a pyrometer, this was pretty damn ridiculous, but the concept was clear.

Back to the garage. Mini propane tank in one hand, lighter in the other. I gently heat the thing. Du-du-du-du-du... Nothing.

OK maybe just a little more.... Du-du-du-du-du-du-du-du.

OK. Lets heat it up just a LITTLE more.... Du-du-du-du-zzzzzzzzzzzzzt.

Success!!!!!!!

I have never been so happy to see a bolt come out. Well once before, but that was a REAL disaster.

Anyway, I'm going to get three new bolts tomorrow, a new washer and a new Cotter pin.

Oh, why did the wheel hub need changing? The previous owner had some tire gorrillas working on the thing and ripped a stud out through the back. The ID of the hole was too large to press another one in. Bad.

Tune in next time for more exciting adventures...

-Z out

Curveit

Just finshed mine.....I agree they were a PITA. I don't have air-tools, but the ole' breaker bar finally busted them loose. They were in there tight for sure, and I'm not too crazy about those T-55s anyway. It helped a lot to have the half-shafts out, as I'm doing u-joints too.

:chevy

NHVett

I ended up removing the knuckles entirely to get the torx bolts out. Auctually, the knuckles come off pretty easily.

Ramanstud

you know it's good when your Torx Bit bends (instead of the bolt coming out), but I'm a regular user of MAPP gas, that's for sure...

It's a wonder tool!

JasonL

I just used PB Blaster. Bolts came loose without much of a fight! :cool:

chucks88

I am a bearing/hub R&R veteran too. Please, please, please make sure you torqued that 36mm nut to about 200 ft. lbs. Before anybody jumps down my throat about an automatic only needing 160 ft lbs. I think that spec is :bs

I had cracking/ popping sounds coming from my new hub until I retorqued it down to about 200 ft. lbs.

Mark85Vett

Wow....I have no horror stories. Came apart nice; went together nice. The only thing I've ever done on this car that went that way!!

Don't even ask me about how my engine swap is going... :banghead:

Z-PDX

I think I'll just hijack my own thread.

A poster mentioned it is easier with the halfshafts out.

How the heck do the halfshafts come out without the wheelhub, etc... coming out first????

Thanks,

-Z

scorp508

Simple.
http://personal.tmlp.com/scorp/vette/images/ujoints/

Wheelman

When you take the straps off the halfshaft u joints and unbolt the spindle support rod you can push the spindle up and out a little from underneath the car, and when it flexes up the halfshaft will fall out.

Z-PDX

Oh, the spindle support rod. I had the straps off the u's trying to do this, but didn't think to take the support rod off.

Thanks so much!

vetracer

Do you mean the camber rod? That's all you have to take off to ge the knuckle to move enough to get the half shaft out.

okinawa86vette

Well, not that simple, sometimes those spider bolts can be a huge pita.

I did my hubs with the knuckles off the car, made it a lot easier, but I alread had the rear suspension torn apart for one of my many rear end removals and/or swaps.

DieL

on a severley lowered car with 70k miles... think they would need changing? after a long drive once i started to hear a whine kinda like a groan but higher pitched... went away after a while. think its the bearings. Also longer studs were..dare i say it.. were installed and the stock ones were 'Hammered' out!! think the hammering killed the bearings???? :cheers:

black bart

I replaced both rear wheel bearings two years ago took me about 1 1/2 hours for both sides just need proper tools.

okinawa86vette

I tell you what, if I've learned one thing, it's to have the right tools for the job.