We have indeed posted this text on the F-body and B-body boards as well as having sent it to all of those people who have signed up for our mailing list.

Thank you all for your input...


Regards and God Bless,
Phil Rickard, President
Dynotech Engineering, Inc.

 

We hope you get the picture. Your product is in demand at least from our group. Keep us informed as you progress in the opti upgrading.

 

Phil of DynoTech Engineering

I'm quite an advocate of getting the high voltage out of the Opti-Spark. That's why number 3 is of great interest to me.

My suggestions on a model like this one with a coil for each plug:
1) Since it would not have a high-voltage section, you do not need the large diameter of the OEM Opt-Spark -- it is needed on the OEM style with the high voltage inside for separation distance to adjacent high-voltage components.
Make it just big enough for the Optical sensor part. It might be feasable to make it small enough to take off the engine without pulling the dampener and water pump.
2) Use a completely sealed unit with no rubber seals and/or gaskets of any kind, maybe even Hall-effect sensor couple from the camshaft to eliminate that seal-- it would be throw away when it fails, there would be no way for moisture to enter it.

As an added note: for one similar to a OEM type with the high-voltage inside, it might be possible to use a slight positive pressure inside temporarily when hosing down the engine to prevent water from entering -- the owner would have to connect a small pump to it to keep the water out.

I put sealer around my OEM Opti-Spark. Just before I wash down my engine, I pull a slight vacuum on the Opti-Spark with a hand vacuum pump while plugging the hose, where the air enters the Opti-Spark from the air cleaner snorkle, with a vacuum gauge. I watch to see how long the vacuum lasts after pumping the hand-pump. I figure, if air can't get in, moisture can't either. I have never had a problem when it can maintain a vacuum.

Tom Piper

 

I would be very interested in option 2, if/when my original fails.

 

My car has 72,000 miles on it now. I have been following this Opti closely. Obviously this is so new that there can't be any long term testimonials but some real life usage would be great.

I am going to keep watching and make the decsion about Option 1 when the time comes.

The other thing that would help is some kind of agreement with local installers about warranty. The GM Opti comes with a warranty of some kind (not sure what) that covers install as part of the package. If you could set up some local installers that would honor a 3 year warranty, parts and labor, I bet the sales would pick up.

 

hey ramrod92 if you dont mind me saying thats a beautiful motor you have there? mind telling us the nitty gritty about it? what cam/heads ect? what kind of horsepower you planning om making with it? did you start with the LT block?

 

Keep going, keep going! If you can GUARENTEE that it lasts over 80kmiles, well then the 500 dollar purchase price is WORTH it. :)

 

Daniel, yes it started as a 4 bolt LT1 block bored .030 over for 395.42 cubic inches. The crank is a Callies 3.875, Lunati 6 inch promod rods, Crane 234/242 112 with .574/.595 lift with promag 1.6 full roller rockers, Comp high energy Hyd rooler lifters, chromemoly pushrods, and guide plates. Clevete bearings, JE 11.0 inverted dome pistons, SRP rings, 2.00/1.56 valves in ported stock heads,port matched intake, canton 7qt pan with stud kit, ARP head studs, main studs and flexplate bolts. Dynaspark billet opti, ATI dampner with keyed hub, EM 1 3/4 full lenght headers, B&B 3inch with xpipe,TPIS coldair intake, IAT relocation, Mellling high volumn oil pump, SVO 30lb injectors, Hypertech 160 thermostat, LT4 heavy duty timing set. GM ( waterpump,hoses, 95 front cover, vaumn lines EGR valve and silonoid, chrome vavlve covers, oil cap and breather), NGK plugs, Walbro fuelpump w/Racetronix harness, SS allenhead bolt kit, Agua painted fuelrail covers, EM Harness bar, R&D crossbar, GS brakes,SS lines, chrome 9 1/2 ZR1s with SZ50s in 285/40 all around. 3.54s with a 2800 converter. Hope to put down someware over 420 to the ground before I add a 250 shot. We'll see though. :steering:

 

Great idea. I would buy this in a heartbeat.

I'm leaning on having the new sealed opti acting like a crank trigger sensor with coils.

 

sounds like a sweet motor! with the stall converter im guessing it is automatic? what are your plans for the car? drag only? or possibly road corse perhaps autocross? if you dont mind me asking about how much would one have to spend to build a motor like that? did you do most of the work yourself or have someone else build it to your specifications?

 

If I were in the market for a new Optispark, I would most likely buy #1 (Gen II vented) in favor of the GM unit. But right now, I'm good to go for a few more years. Hopefully the Dynaspark unit will still be in production when I do need a replacement.

 

Also, it seems that GM part prices tend to creep upwards over time. If this trend continues and the GM vented opti becomes, say $300, then the Dynaspark will look more and more attractive.

 

My philosophy is ...upgrade, upgrade, upgrade....never replace with 'stock'.
Your products and theories seem admirable. The C4 market NEEDS an alternative to the opti-spark. All car guys are interested in a higher output, hotter distributor thats also waterproof, performs worth the money, and looks good while adding to our confidence. If I was in need (and will probably soon be) of a new distributor sytem, I would definatly buy your product, no doubt about it.
How about a monthly payment plan in order to make this easier for us. After all, this is the C4 forum. Most of us are middle class car guys who make each purchasining decision carefully and tactfuly. Work with us and we will work with you.
:cheers:

 

To build a quility motor with out using your old motor for little parts, probably around 10 grand. I just want a fairly fast street car that I can take to the track on occasions. I emailed you some more pics of the motor. :steering:

 

VERY good point......... :withstupid:

I'd buy it but for $500........man.....that's still steep......not crying but think of all the beers that could buy....... :jester

Kitt

 

A see many requests for "some track record data". Seems folks are concerned about the reliability of this billet product. Why?? The OEM alternative is has a PROVEN RECORD as a chronic "total loser". There is no other reasonable alternative. If folks were so paranoid about trying new stuff, nobody would buy a new C6 (doubt that). Many folks have systematically installed 3 or more of the OEM Optijunks without blinking at $300+ each (backyard repair) to $1000 a pop (incl labor). This can cost thousands and lead to repeated flat bedding & ruined trips. Other's add hundreds more for ancillary hardware like new water pumps, hoses or fresh intake seals.

It looks to me like every failure mode in the original design has been addressed in the Dynaspark. When my "early" OEM Optispark fails (again)and I spend many hours removing it & it's priced under say $700...assuming they're sold, I will buy & install your well-designed product. It beats the OEM hands down. Peace of mind and less frequent repairs & labor are worth a lot to me. Personally, I do not wish to alter my car to accept multiple coilpacks....but I can see how those with serious mods or blowers would want it. Such a design may not be legal for stock class racing...a hobby of many LT1/4 enthusiasts. I feel your original design is major overkill for normally-aspirated applications under 450 HP. I am confident it addresses the fundamental weakness of the LT series motors. My only negative comment is.......the anodizing. Hey, the Optispark is hidden. If it costs 50 cents extra for plating, no thanks. As you noticed, others see it as fluff...which takes away from the unit's overall reputation. It solicits negative feedback from those who believe form follows function. I think the only folks who notice anodizing will be fellow racers going over your car with a fine tooth comb in "tech", when they file & win a protest for illegal upgrade/mod.

I feel the Gen I Dynaspark will sell like hotcakes, compared to Gen II. The OEM Gen I failure rate is much higher. Very few folks are willing to retrofit Gen II to a Gen I car, so they go with OEM (again and again and again...).

I would not expect significant demand for the multi-coil solutions. Those willing to convert a Gen I car to Gen II for reliability may buy them, but IMHO, that group is small.

I hope you can continue to support all LT1 and LT4 cars with at least one solution. Optispark, coilpack setup, whatever.


[Modified by Rick93Z07, 4:26 PM 5/29/2003]

 

I am very interested in this product!! I just replaced my Opti and would have looked seriously at this but didn't know about it until now!!

Were can I get more info, what I would need to install and the 'how to install'?

:confused:

 

I am very interested in this product. I just replaced my Opti so it might take a while for a replacement..... or would it??

I didn't know anything about this product until now. How do I get more info, what I need for installation and the 'how to hook up' details?

:confused:

 

Don, here is the link to DTE Dynaspark page http://www.dynotech-eng.com./dynaspark.htm If you can replace your own unit, you can easily install this. The only thing with mine that required a little thinking was hooking up the vacumn lines since my 92 did not come with them. Since you have a 96 there shouldn't be any problems. :steering:

 

if ANyone would like a brand new 95 Opti, let me know. Absolutley untouched in the box i volunteer to try this unit out and post dyno results... i really want it.