Mine is releasing all the way down at the floor, can I do anything to get it to release sooner?

Can I lengthen the push rod the in clutch slave or will that not help any?

 

Is your pedal adjusted correctly? It is usually quite high in relation to the brake pedal. When adjusting the cruise disengagement switch on the pedal, the pedal should be lifted up to correctly adjust the switch. It can be purposely (albeit incorrectly) set low to lower the pedal position in relation to the brake pedal. This reduces the volume of fluid moved by the master cylinder/pedal stroke giving the symptom you describe.
It could be a problem with your hydraulics, Are your master & slave cylinders ok? When did you last bleed them ? Does it make any difference if you pump the pedal several times?... Just a few thoughts. :steering:

 

I have not adjuted the pedeal since the new clutch was installed, the salve was rebuilt last summer and I will try bleeding it tonight just to make very sure there is no air in the system.

There have been no chanegs since I put the new engine and clutch in so I was wondering what the issues/things to look for could be.

 

Huh? Our hydraulic systems are non-adjustable. I've never heard of anyone been able to adjust theirs. Did you modify yours in some way?

 

No mods no changes, I have no idea about clutch pedal height etc as posted above.

 

Did you replace your clutch fork and throwout bearing at install?

 

Only the throw out bearing with the new Center Force DF clutch

 

Scorp, you are correct, the clutch hydraulic systems are 'non adjustable'
However, they can have the cruise control disengage switch that is operated by the clutch pedal maladjusted, which causes the clutch pedal to be in an artifically lower position than it should be. When adjusting this switch, the pedal should be pulled or lifted up to correctly adjust this switch. If it is not, it will cause the pedal to stay in an artificially lowered position potentially reducing the amount of pedal stroke and therefore hydraulic fluid volume that the master cylinder delivers to the slave cylinder. This procedure is covered in all the service manuals I have read. With this said, It is possible to artificially lower the pedal height by maladjusting this switch. ie using it as a pedal return stop. This may result in gear crunching, clutch dragging or failure to release the clutch properly. But it is still a valid check point for someone trying to fault find a clutch release problem. When I bought my 87 ten years ago, mine was maladjusted in this way, I didn't find it until I changed to a Centerforce DF and found my clutch pedal about an inch higher than it used to be. The car was easier to drive with the lower pedal, but after, the gearchange was better due to a better release I assume. :steering:

 

Well I bled the clutch tonight and it is obvious to me now that the clutch is not releasing fully.

When I have my foot to the floor on a hill, it wont roll, when I have my clutch foot on the floor and rev the motor the car will roll forward slowly.

When I had the flywheel resurfaced they took of @ .030-.045", when they balanced the crank they added a balance palte that was .060 thick.

I find it hard to belive that + .015 or less is enough to make this thing not engage.

What are my options?

:banghead:

 

The flywheel/crank work is not the problem. Anything that moves your flywheel surface towards the clutch will raise your clutch pedal's disengagement point.

I'd be double checking the part number on the pressure plate, t/o bearing, and inspecting the clutch fork for damage.


Want a quick fix though? Get a longer slave pushrod, or an adjustable one. You can remove it without taking ANYTHING apart. Just force the slave piston down in the cylinder, and then it should be loose to slip out of there easily. In case you haven't seen it, it's just a 2.5" rod of hardened steel, rounded off at both ends. It would be easy enough to make one from a high grade bolt. (but smooth the ends really good so it doesn't chew up the piston or fork)

Just don't adjust it too much, or you could potentially damage your clutch or pressureplate. :party:

 

Thanks, I did this and it worked, it took @ .250 longer rod. :conehead

 

As long as you're getting 3/4" of travel with the slave piston, then the hydraulics aren't the problem. :cheers:

 

Thanks again, I did not measure the travel but I kow that I rebuilt the slave and master last summer when it went out on my. Must be the new cltuch & new engine setup with the balance plate.

A side benfifit was tha t Itook the console apart and readjusted the shift linkage per the manual.

Shes shifting nice and ready for tuning!

:seeya :thumbs: