Aggravated4life

Hey guys,
Im in the process of some EGR bypassing for some test runs.
The EGR valve,solenoid and temp switch is still all hooked up but the crossover tube is removed.I installed the egr temp switch into the intake manifold but unsure if it can ground properly here.

It was a test to see if it would work without throwing a code.
Anyways,as soon as I start the car(when cold),the SES light comes on and its the code 32 egr system problem.
But once the car warms up and I shut the car off and back on again the lights out and the scanner shows no codes.Theres no driveability or performance problems in any way at all.So far it works great but want to get the code light off my dash without getting another prom.

65Z01,
I copied this from your site:

So, we want to allow the ground command signal on the Gry wire to pull the Dk Grn wire to ground. Meanwhile we need to block the 12Vdc from being applied back to the ECM on the Dk Grn wire. This can be done by connecting a silicone diode (available at Radio Shack) between the Gry wire and the Dk Grn wire as follows.

EGR Temp. Sw Dk Grn wire diode EGR Solenoid Gry wire
-----------------------------------O-------------------|>|-------------O------------------------------------

Here the diode symbol ">" points toward the Red or Blk bar on one end of the actual diode."

Me:ok..if this is what I need to do,Im still unsure what to ask the morons at radio shack.I feel like if I drive 30 minutes to town and ask for this silicone diode,theyre going to look at me like they never heard of it or something so is there anything more specific I need to ask?Is there a rating,part number or something?Its a drive for me and I dont want to waste the trip back there.

Thanks for any insights or extra ideas.
Btw if anyone wants to know how I blocked off the egr hole on the intake manifold,I used the bracket from the egr feed tube and put a quarter on the bottom side and a dime on the top side to seal it off and painted it all black and bolted it back down w/ a enw gasket.No leaks!

The quarter had to be slightly grinded down around the edges to fit perfectly in the bottom part where the tube used to hold on to.So now theres real money on the engine,just 35 cents!
:lol:

NoWorries

Hey Bill,

Just out of curiousity, does it do it with the solenoid disconnected?

My car NEVER threw any codes with the Solenoid not installed(I broke it) but the EGR installed. Once the car tried to settle into cruising, I assume it would try to shut the EGR, and programmed for that, and the fuel-air ratio would fall off lean. After I closed up the Intake Manifold I no longer had that problem and still no codes.

:cheers:


[Modified by NoWorries, 8:57 PM 1/10/2004]

JAKE

Sorry I can't help you with your EGR problem. I trashed mine years ago and had it turned off in my PROM.

Jake

65Z01

Bill, you can use the Silicone diode as I described or use a relay to achieve the same result. I've not tried the diode and so don't know for sure if the IR drop across it will be too great though I think the current will be low enough so as not to be a problem.

When at Radio Shack search the electronic components racks for the silicone diode. Use a DMM to measure resistance in both directions to assure proper polarity. You want to install it so that there is high resistance from the Gry wire to the Grn but low resistance from the Grn wire to the Gry, so that when the Gry wire goes low it pulls the Grn wire low also telliing the ECM that the EGR temp switch has closed.

You could also use a relay, like the fan control relay, to do the same job. In that case hook it up as follows:
-Pin D - Gry wire from EGR control solenoid
-Pin F - red wire (supplied by you) to +12Vdc source
-Pin A - Grn wire (EGR temp switch signal to ECM)
-Pin A - Blk wire (supplied by you) to ground

Aggravated4life

No worries,
Actually I havent tried that yet...Ill try that later and see what happens.
Jake,thanks for letting me know.Ill keep you posted as well how it all turns out.
:cheers:

Aggravated4life

65,
Thanks so much! I may do the relay route instead now.It would easier for me to do that here than make a trip to the stores since I live a bit far from everything.Will keep you posted how it turns out...anyways,do you have any idea why the egr is doing this now,since I relocated the temp switch to install on the back of the intake instead of the metal tube it used to be in?

I did use permatex #2 on the threads since I removed the coolant neck at the back and the egr temp switch threads right into there and I put it there as to not have to drill another hole and im wondering if my sealing it up prevents it from grounding with the intake?Kind of like if you put rtv on the knock sensor it wont ground properly?
Just wondering what your thoughts are...if this is the case,I can maybe find another place to ground the switch into.

:cheers: