ok i searched but got nothing. i need to know exactly how to install my roller rockers. i mean step by step. i've never been in the valve covers of my car so i dont know what i'm doing. can i just unbolt the old ones then put the new ones on? or do i have to put them on while the engine is a a certain position? please help me men. thanks

 

First thing you need to do is find out they are self-aligning or non-self-aligning. If they are self-aligning you can take the old ones off and put the new ones on...if they are not, then it is a more involved process!

 

I found some instructions but they pertain to a recall on Grand Sports: http://www.grandsportregistry.com/te...rarmrecall.htm
I think these are self aligning?

 

Yep, stock LT4 rockers are self-aligning

 

ok well i got em used from a forum member. they are comp cams roller rockers. i have new studs and a top nut that goes on top of them. i dont have any guide plates that come with or anything. so i guess their self aligning? what do yall think? so if they are self aligning i just unbolt the old ones? remove factory stud, then put new stuff in? what about if the engine is in a lift position on that cylinder? will it still tighten down? wont the springs pop up when i take them off? i'm a newbie at this stuff so please spell it out for me easy like.

 

Nope, your springs have locks and retainers to keep them in place, I would call Comp cams and check the part number to be sure if they are self-aligning...but if they are, then yes, you can unbolt the old ones, replcae the studs and install the new ones...very simple process. A forum member here, Nathan Plemons, has had a lot of practice swapping rockers lately...shoot him a PM and get his input.

 

If they are 'self-aligning', Easy enough to get on, just remove old and install new. Post the part number and I'm sure someone will tell you if they are self-aligning.

Your main issue is adjusting them, that is the procedure you should be looking for most in my opinion. (hint: go to autozone and get a tech manual for about $20)

The other issue is if your 95 has drip-tabs up in the rocker covers that need to be cut off.

I'm sure that you'll get plenty of tips before this post is done.

 

Here is one way to adjust the valves, there are several ways.

It doesn't matter where the engine is when you start. Adjust all the valves to zero lash by adjusting the nut until the pushrods barely turn. Turn the engine a little, no more than 1/4 revolution. Check all the valves, and adjust the loose ones. Usually only a few will need further adjustment. Wiggle the rockers to see which ones got loose. You'll quickly get a feel for how much wiggle is OK. Turn the engine again. Check all the valves, and adjust the loose ones again. Keep doing this until you make 2 revolutions. Now go back and tighten all the valves 1/2 turn. Done.

 

How many miles are on your car. If the miles are getting up there I'd consider doing the valve seals at the same time. It'll take a bit more time, but getting the covers off is half the work so you might consider killing two birds with one stone.

 

First off what year is your Vette???

Since the RRs came with studs I suspect they are 7/16". Measure the top & bottom diameter; if the same size they are 7/16".

In that case they are likely ProMagnums, for 7/16" studs, 1.6:1 ratio and non self aligning.

If they are self aligning there will be a metal tab projecting down on either side of the valve tip roller. Otherwise you will see only the roller projecting down below the rocker tip.

If this is the case you need some hardened guide plates and pushrods.

But exactly what is required for installation depends on what type of RR you have:
-whar rocker ratio
-what stud size
-self aligning or not

and on what engine you intend to install them onto:
-early or late L98
-LT1
-other

We needs mo info.

 

ok i have a 95 vette. so its an LT1. the car has 59xxx miles on it. the roller rockers i have were bought used. but they came in a comp cams box with a sticker on the side that has part number 1318-16 and it says "CS 1.6 3/8 Self Aligning" now i guess that it's the box that they origionally came in but dont know for sure. the actual rocker arms have roller fulcrum, and tip. they are bare silver metal. they have a bowtie stamped on the top of it along with the letters "CR" . under that the numbers "01" and then "96" are stamped too. as far as the profile of the arm; when looked at from the side the roller tip cant' be seen. the body of the arm is round but the diameter of the arm is greater than that of the actual roller part, which sets in the arm. so i dont know about any tab, but i cant see the actual roller hanging down from the rocker. but when i bought them from the forum member, he told me that they would bolt right up to an LT1. hope he's tellin the truth. as far as the studs go, the bottom part that goes into the heads has a diameter of 3/8. but the top is threaded and has a nut that goes on it. those threads are 5/16. so i got no 7/16 anywhere on mine. the part of the stud that is above the nut used to tighten it in the head has a diameter of 3/8 as well. but it isnt threaded. back to the box, all it says is "Rocker Arms" no promag or nothin. i know this is aggrivating but i really appreciate all the help men. thanks so much. and please keep the info coming.

 

Just curious, why would one choose "non-self aligning rockers" over self-aligning ones???

 

"Adjust all the valves to zero lash by adjusting the nut until the pushrods barely turn."

You can do this ONLY when the related piston is at TDC compression stroke.
In this way the valves are closed and the lifter/tappet is on the base circle on the cam (not on the lobe)
Start with the #1 piston finding the TDC at compression stroke, adjust the rockers for this piston, the turm the crank 1/4 turn (90 deg) to go to the next piston following the firing order.
I suggest to turn the crank (90 deg) after 10 or 15 min. then you can go safety to the next piston.

When you have adjusted to zero lashThen follow a manual. For L98 I think you have to add an additional full turn, for Lt1 I think you have a torque specs to follow..
-Beppe-

 

Small block Chevy engines come with one of three different methods of aligning the rocker tip with the end of the valve stem. The use of more than one method can cause binding and/or excessive wear in the valve train, most specifically the push rods.

Clemson Vette,
Your description of the rocker arms indicate that they ARE self aligning. Your stud measurements are off, however. You have a 3/8ths" nut screwing onto a 5/16ths" thread. I think if you will double check your studs, you will find that they are 7/16ths" on the short end that screws into the head, and 3/8ths" for the poly lock (adjusting nut). The packaging for the rocker says, "self aligning" (confirmed) and 3/8ths" studs (most likely). As long as the rockers fit the studs, without a lot of slop, it sounds like you are "in business".

Eliminate any "plates" that may be sandwiched between the existing studs and the head and reassemble. You are going to have to find some literature on the adjusting of hydraulic lifter preload. With all due respect, your questions indicate a lack of the basics, on the subject. I'm sure you will have no problem dealing with any valve cover interference. It sounds like your parts are all correct. Good luck, and...

RACE ON!!!