1c44ya

Ok , . . here is my take on the LT4 knock module. I was'nt sure that it was even nessasary, but after reading up on it and getting feed back from some guys on the forum, i decided to get it and see if it made any sort of difference. First of all,. .i have headers and 1.6:1 RR's and a chambered straight thru exaust. I'm listing these mods only because these are the ones that might produce false knock, and thus retard the timming. The LT1 knock module is super sensitive and could pick these things up as knock, and thus retard timming.
I did'nt think i had a problem . Putting the LT4 module in was a snap. After the install i left my neg battery cable disconnected for about 20 mins , then reconnected it . I fired up my courious LT1, and it seem to gasp , and then sigh, as if it were telling me "thats what i've been looking for"!!!
My idle became very smooth and steady. So after warming up, i took it for a little drive. I instantly noticed the sharp, crisp throttle response, and although i dont have any track times to boast to u, it sure feels to me that my car is pulling harder all the way thru the rpm band. A really noticeable pull right after a shift. Almost felt like i had some boost from a turbo.!! . . . . ok maybe thats alittle exageration, but i'm sure u get the idea. All and all , i'm very glad i did it. And just think ,. . i would not have ever thought i needed it , if u guys had not brought the subject to the forum.
Thanks guys!!

TankerVette

umm...

I put one in after my mods, still getting knock counts like crazy...

Sure hope it isn't really knock, running Chevron 92...

1c44ya

maybe u have something else going on in that motor

ztrips

Where did you get the knock module? Cost? Install process?

I'm thinking about doing the same...


Thanks

1c44ya

i got it thru a chevy dealer and it cost $60 Installation is easy , disconnect your neg battery cable , undo the 2 screws that hold your PCM to it's tray. flip the PCM over and use "T-20" TORK screw driver to undo the 2 screws at the knock module, pry the lid up, reach in and push the tabs and remove the old sensor. snap the new one in , and close everything back up , leave battery cable disconnected for about 15-20 min. hook up and start car

mikey whipreck

Didn't realize later C4's had a problem with that...

I know my early C4 is plagued by false knock.
I ordered an upgraded ESC module (from gmpartsdirect for about the same price) and will be putting it in this week...

I hope for results similar to yours.

1c44ya

what yr is your car?

mikey whipreck

if you mean me,
mine is a 1985 'l98

I am sure I am getting false knock. The sensor and wiring is new.
I'm hoping for a big difference from an upgraded esc... I shall see.

ToyC4

I got my LT4 knock module from Chris at Superior Chevrolet and I think it was only $25-30 ?

1c44ya

well u got a deal , but chevy parts list them at $60.86

ToyC4

yep for anyone needing good prices on GM parts Superior Chevrolet is the hook up. Call Chris 1-800-728-8267 and tell him you're with corvetteforum he sells everything at 10% over cost.

mikey whipreck

check gmpartsdirect as well...
prices seem about the same, except the gmparts site will gouge you on S&H.

MYCoupe

Anybody have the part #?

Shore

Would this be a good idea on 100k 92?..I have a good hook-up at the local chebby....I do alot of work for them.

FD2BLK

What is your knock sensor TQ to? I have found if it is to tight it will cause false knock if thereis any noise what so ever (14 ft pnds is correct TQ) I have a 383 1.6 R/Rs, LT headers, no cats, single mass and magna flows and zero knock count.

TankerVette

...Never have changed them ... Tried to get 'em out once (during a coolant flush), but no love...

I think that renewing them is the next thing I'm gonna have to try, though I guess I will have to use the brute force approach...

She's got 81,000 miles...

Red Rocket

Didn't have much luck with the LT4 knock module in my 396. Finally turned off the Knock sensors in the PCM.

Lone Ranger

Same here. I recently put mine back in just for the hell of it. Can't hurt. Beats leaving it on shelf I guess...

Lone Ranger

Anyone know if it hurts to loosen it and re-torque each one to spec of 14 lb-ft? Or will that make it leak coolant loosening it and re-torqueing?

FD2BLK

I would think as long as the sensor did not get dammaged then try it. Worst case you will have to pull it and add some RTV before reinstalation (BTW my last motor had a false knock problem because I over tightened the knock sensors, I checked the spec before installing replacments and set the new onew to 14# and never had another knock problem)