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A cast 3.75" Scat 9000 crank can be had fairly cheap (under $200) and any rotating assy should be ballanced before assy. To build a Forged set up will be more, mine was about $1800 for just the rotating assy.
I just pulled my motor yesterday for a stroker project. I'm running a vortech blower, so I have to go forged bottom end (well, I don't NEED to, but what the heck I want to run 15 PSI... ehhehe..)
The cost differences between an all forged 355 and forged 484 are only in machining and extras like cooling, injectors, tires... hehe
If you are going forged no matter what, go 383. If going cast, I'd have to think about it.
I am considering eagle crank and rods. I'll let the machine shop worry about geting the whole thing balanced. At 3,000 mile a year the tires oughta last two years??? I will keep you posted over the winter.
Someone mentioned the f-body guys, I'm one of them. My '88 Iroc has 21k original miles. Two years ago I stroked it with a set of nice pistons, the 5.7 rods and a scat crank. Along with the S/R , AFR 190's(unported for now),Ling 219 cam and the Vig. 2800 converter, and a Trans-go kit in the 700 tranny, knock on wood the rear-end has several 1.65 60ft. on it with no problems. By all means go with the stroker! Nothing beats that feeling of trying to keep your eye ***** from flatning out when you nail it of the line.
Gary
How much can Mr. RubyRed expect to have his torque increase to? At what point would the power begin to fall off? Around the mid 5000 rpm range? Just curious because I've got a pratically brand new 350 sitting on a stand that might get the same treatment.
How much can Mr. RubyRed expect to have his torque increase to? At what point would the power begin to fall off? Around the mid 5000 rpm range? Just curious because I've got a pratically brand new 350 sitting on a stand that might get the same treatment.
Depends on the intake and heads. My power range is 5600 to 5900 with a ported SR setup.
Are you going cast or forged? If forged, I would seriously consider a non-scat/eagle crank. The cost is not that much more upfront, and you will spend >$100 on an eagle crank to get it in spec...
Originally Posted by RUBYREDVETTECARD
Looks like the jury is in. I AM GONNA STROKE IT
I am considering eagle crank and rods. I'll let the machine shop worry about geting the whole thing balanced. At 3,000 mile a year the tires oughta last two years??? I will keep you posted over the winter.
Are you going cast or forged? If forged, I would seriously consider a non-scat/eagle crank. The cost is not that much more upfront, and you will spend >$100 on an eagle crank to get it in spec...
My Scat crank, and the previos three I used, ballanced with no heavy metal. Why do you think it would cost an aditional $100+ on top of the normal ballancing fee to use an eagle or Scat crank?
Talked to 2 different machine shops (they don't sell the Callies stuff I'm going with, so I don't see why they would be biased..)
The problem isn't so much with balancing, it's with the journals being out of round or out of spec.
Originally Posted by FD2BLK
My Scat crank, and the previos three I used, ballanced with no heavy metal. Why do you think it would cost an aditional $100+ on top of the normal ballancing fee to use an eagle or Scat crank?
The problem isn't so much with balancing, it's with the journals being out of round or out of spec.
Never seen or heard of the journals on a 4340 forged Scat Crank beeing out of round. I friend of mine building 750 HP motors uses the same crank I have in my car with no problems. As far as Callies goes they make a great crank but the Dragon Slayer 4340 is about $150-$250 more then a comparable Sact or Eagle. I think you will be fine with any of them (No personal experience with Eagle) will work great.
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