ZR-1 purchase advice please!
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St. Jude Donor '06
ZR-1 purchase advice please!
Since I'm in a ZR-1 forum, maybe y'all would understand my dilemma.
There are 2 '94 ZR-1's I'm looking at.
BEFORE finding the bottom line price, as I believe both are a little overpriced.
The first:
22k miles. DRM package. Black plenumn/intake. Polished valve covers. Polished EVERYTHING (even AC lines, etc).
NO original parts included. No original plug wires. Exhaust (or even the tips). Upgraded (bear) Rotors, etc. Great upgrades, but ZERO original parts kept (??????).
Many costly, effective and tasteful mods. Exhaust, shifter, Rotors / Calipers. The DRM package is (I believe) 12-15K alone. That said, I know 50Cents on the dollar for mods is the norm (or less).
BUT - it has the interior color I want. Rare for the Ext color choice I made.
The second:
100% original. 6k miles. 3K more price wise than the first.
None of the mods as the first. Which, if I had to re-do I'd guess I'd spend north of 15k.
BUT - it's 100% original. 16,000 miles LESS than the first choice.
It does NOT have the interior color I wish to find. Hence, my how much $$ to change int color thread.
Again, I realize the mods (which I do like) cost large cash.
My dilemma is that for car #1, I'd have to buy (at the very least ):
Plug wires, shocks, rotors/calipers, exhaust/tips, UNPOLISHED lines for EVERYTHING under the hood... then Paint the Intake/plenumn and Valve Covers to match the original. Not to mention the cost involved in taking them off!
I realize each has it's merits. But somehow I'm bothered by so much work just to get it back to original. That's assuming I EVER wish to (in 20 years and going to car shows).
I don't know what to do. Should I be bothered by 22k miles and a price within 3k of a 6k mile ORIGINAL car? Should I be bothered that the underhood area look not too close to original? If I were the owner I'd customize too. But keep the original parts (I think).
Again, I realize it sounds trivial. But any advice is appreciated.
When looking for my TTA, I've seen a few 1400 mile cars that were in sh*t condition. You have to take care of a stored car! To repair those 1400 mile cars would be costly.
So I ended up with a 3k mile car that was started every 3 weeks (no spring damage, seal leaks, etc). All due diligence and procedures were verifiably followed (museum cars have logs). So I DO realize sometimes lower mile cars COST more to FIX AND buy.
I would just like to get the RIGHT car.
Again, ANY advice is deeply appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
M
There are 2 '94 ZR-1's I'm looking at.
BEFORE finding the bottom line price, as I believe both are a little overpriced.
The first:
22k miles. DRM package. Black plenumn/intake. Polished valve covers. Polished EVERYTHING (even AC lines, etc).
NO original parts included. No original plug wires. Exhaust (or even the tips). Upgraded (bear) Rotors, etc. Great upgrades, but ZERO original parts kept (??????).
Many costly, effective and tasteful mods. Exhaust, shifter, Rotors / Calipers. The DRM package is (I believe) 12-15K alone. That said, I know 50Cents on the dollar for mods is the norm (or less).
BUT - it has the interior color I want. Rare for the Ext color choice I made.
The second:
100% original. 6k miles. 3K more price wise than the first.
None of the mods as the first. Which, if I had to re-do I'd guess I'd spend north of 15k.
BUT - it's 100% original. 16,000 miles LESS than the first choice.
It does NOT have the interior color I wish to find. Hence, my how much $$ to change int color thread.
Again, I realize the mods (which I do like) cost large cash.
My dilemma is that for car #1, I'd have to buy (at the very least ):
Plug wires, shocks, rotors/calipers, exhaust/tips, UNPOLISHED lines for EVERYTHING under the hood... then Paint the Intake/plenumn and Valve Covers to match the original. Not to mention the cost involved in taking them off!
I realize each has it's merits. But somehow I'm bothered by so much work just to get it back to original. That's assuming I EVER wish to (in 20 years and going to car shows).
I don't know what to do. Should I be bothered by 22k miles and a price within 3k of a 6k mile ORIGINAL car? Should I be bothered that the underhood area look not too close to original? If I were the owner I'd customize too. But keep the original parts (I think).
Again, I realize it sounds trivial. But any advice is appreciated.
When looking for my TTA, I've seen a few 1400 mile cars that were in sh*t condition. You have to take care of a stored car! To repair those 1400 mile cars would be costly.
So I ended up with a 3k mile car that was started every 3 weeks (no spring damage, seal leaks, etc). All due diligence and procedures were verifiably followed (museum cars have logs). So I DO realize sometimes lower mile cars COST more to FIX AND buy.
I would just like to get the RIGHT car.
Again, ANY advice is deeply appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
M
Last edited by Zethco; 10-03-2005 at 10:25 PM.
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St. Jude Donor '05
Unless I read wrong (I skimmed through it), seems you like the first car and the color better; buy it. I wouldn't worry about resale as lots of ZR1 buyers know these cars and usually mod them anyways. I don't see where either one of those cars os a bad buy. Point I'm making is because a ZR1 is modded does not make it worth less as the case might be with other cars. Many Z buyers know the cost of these mods and would opt to buy a car that has already had the work done. This is just my opinion, some guys like them factory #matching perfect, which is fine but I'd rather have the power and brakes to enjoy it.
Get the one you want because you'll enjoy it every time you look at it and drive it, not because of "value".
Get the one you want because you'll enjoy it every time you look at it and drive it, not because of "value".
#3
Melting Slicks
Sounds like neither is your choice...
Modded car sounds great for someone to enjoy that does not care about 100% originality..
2nd car seems like it would fit you well, being 100% original, but you do not like the interior color... so not a good fit (since it will not be original if you change the interior)
So...
There are too many perfect low mile 100% stock ZR1s out there, wait and find/buy the one you want..
Just my 2 cents..
-Bill
P.s. Personaly, I would buy the modded one!
Modded car sounds great for someone to enjoy that does not care about 100% originality..
2nd car seems like it would fit you well, being 100% original, but you do not like the interior color... so not a good fit (since it will not be original if you change the interior)
So...
There are too many perfect low mile 100% stock ZR1s out there, wait and find/buy the one you want..
Just my 2 cents..
-Bill
P.s. Personaly, I would buy the modded one!
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I too was faced with a similar dilema, I ended up buying a the one that was driven more. I figured that if I didn't get the color combo I wanted then I wasn't going to be happy (regardless of the miles). I just purchased a 94 with 34k. All stock except for chip BUT the car maintanance records are outstanding. The car looks better than some of the low mile cars that I was looking at! Get the car that makes you smile and makes you feel good.
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St. Jude Donor '06
Bill -
If I were to buy the one with the black (not grey) interior and change it... I'd keep all the original interior parts to change back. So that doesn't bug me TOO much. Since it looks like 2G's to change.
But sounds like you're both right about the mods.
However, should I be concerned by 16k MORE miles on the first choice? PLUS the cost to return to original?
Maybe I shouldn't care about either??
Again I say, if I had to mod an ORIGINAL Z I'd likely do the exact same mods. Plus polish/chrome everything under the hood that doesn't move.
BUT!!!! I'd keep and/or buy replacement parts for those things while I still can.
Or maybe I need to stop sniffing glue and dry-erase markers??
I honestly cant tell if one is a compromise over the other since each has it's merits.
So again I thank you for your help.
If I were to buy the one with the black (not grey) interior and change it... I'd keep all the original interior parts to change back. So that doesn't bug me TOO much. Since it looks like 2G's to change.
But sounds like you're both right about the mods.
However, should I be concerned by 16k MORE miles on the first choice? PLUS the cost to return to original?
Maybe I shouldn't care about either??
Again I say, if I had to mod an ORIGINAL Z I'd likely do the exact same mods. Plus polish/chrome everything under the hood that doesn't move.
BUT!!!! I'd keep and/or buy replacement parts for those things while I still can.
Or maybe I need to stop sniffing glue and dry-erase markers??
I honestly cant tell if one is a compromise over the other since each has it's merits.
So again I thank you for your help.
#6
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Why would you return a modded car to stock? You are spending money to return something to less performance while the rest of us are spending money to make them faster.
This next part is not a slam on you so please don't take it that way. I am dreading the day that the ncrs guys start getting their hands on these cars.
This next part is not a slam on you so please don't take it that way. I am dreading the day that the ncrs guys start getting their hands on these cars.
#8
Drifting
Originally Posted by 90 Corvette ZR-1
Why would you return a modded car to stock? You are spending money to return something to less performance while the rest of us are spending money to make them faster.
If you want a car for NCRS shows then just buy a stocker to begin with. If you want a fun driver then buy the modded car and don't look back.
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St. Jude Donor '06
No worries 90.
I'm all about mods. But usually I lean towards those that are internal. So the DRM mods I dig!!! Can't tell unless to take it apart or drive it.
It's the other mods that maybe bug me. Or again, maybe I'm too ****. Maybe the parts needed can be found over time *or* will be repro before long.
I'd NEVER mod a car in a way that I'd undo sometime. Except for 'show' mods. Like chrome, etc.
But performance mods? Almost ALWAYS internal. So never would I go back... Why?
And I agree. When the day comes that our generation of 'muscle' cars get judged... I too dread that day. But, how many of us look back 10 years or more and WISH we did something different with a car we had? I'm just thinking forward to a day that might never be anyway (where I CARE about it being 100% original externally).
My TTA is having only INTERNAL mods done. Unless you drive it, are in it... or in the other lane. You'd NEVER notice.
Sorry to keep bringing the TTA up. But that's my only point of reference.
Screw the 60's! The 80s/early 90s cars will (I hope) someday come close to desirability.
Not that I'd EVER sell... You know what I mean.
I'm all about mods. But usually I lean towards those that are internal. So the DRM mods I dig!!! Can't tell unless to take it apart or drive it.
It's the other mods that maybe bug me. Or again, maybe I'm too ****. Maybe the parts needed can be found over time *or* will be repro before long.
I'd NEVER mod a car in a way that I'd undo sometime. Except for 'show' mods. Like chrome, etc.
But performance mods? Almost ALWAYS internal. So never would I go back... Why?
And I agree. When the day comes that our generation of 'muscle' cars get judged... I too dread that day. But, how many of us look back 10 years or more and WISH we did something different with a car we had? I'm just thinking forward to a day that might never be anyway (where I CARE about it being 100% original externally).
My TTA is having only INTERNAL mods done. Unless you drive it, are in it... or in the other lane. You'd NEVER notice.
Sorry to keep bringing the TTA up. But that's my only point of reference.
Screw the 60's! The 80s/early 90s cars will (I hope) someday come close to desirability.
Not that I'd EVER sell... You know what I mean.
Last edited by Zethco; 10-03-2005 at 10:48 PM.
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Originally Posted by Zethco
No worries 90.
I'm all about mods. But usually I lean towards those that are internal. So the DRM mods I dig!!! Can't tell unless to take it apart or drive it.
It's the other mods that maybe bug me. Or again, maybe I'm too ****. Maybe the parts needed can be found over time *or* will be repro before long.
I'd NEVER mod a car in a way that I'd undo sometime. Except for 'show' mods. Like chrome, etc.
But performance mods? Almost ALWAYS internal. So never would I go back... Why?
And I agree. When the day comes that our generation of 'muscle' cars get judged... I too dread that day.
My TTA is having only INTERNAL mods done. Unless you drive it, are in it... or in the other lane. You'd NEVER notice.
Sorry to keep bringing the TTA up. But that's my only point of reference.
Screw the 60's! The 80s/early 90s cars will (I hope) someday come close to desirability.
Not that I'd EVER sell... You know what I mean.
I'm all about mods. But usually I lean towards those that are internal. So the DRM mods I dig!!! Can't tell unless to take it apart or drive it.
It's the other mods that maybe bug me. Or again, maybe I'm too ****. Maybe the parts needed can be found over time *or* will be repro before long.
I'd NEVER mod a car in a way that I'd undo sometime. Except for 'show' mods. Like chrome, etc.
But performance mods? Almost ALWAYS internal. So never would I go back... Why?
And I agree. When the day comes that our generation of 'muscle' cars get judged... I too dread that day.
My TTA is having only INTERNAL mods done. Unless you drive it, are in it... or in the other lane. You'd NEVER notice.
Sorry to keep bringing the TTA up. But that's my only point of reference.
Screw the 60's! The 80s/early 90s cars will (I hope) someday come close to desirability.
Not that I'd EVER sell... You know what I mean.
Jeal cams: Many people have had issues with them eating lifters/snapping. so that will have to be added into the price for you to take off. It is not an easy or cheap job to change the cams out.
Plug wires, shocks, rotors/calipers, exhaust/tips, UNPOLISHED lines for EVERYTHING under the hood... then Paint the Intake/plenumn and Valve Covers to match the original. Not to mention the cost involved in taking them off!
I still don't understand why you want to do this.
Last edited by 90 Corvette ZR-1; 10-03-2005 at 10:48 PM.
#12
Drifting
There was a stock appearing black Z on ebay just recently, don't remember the year. It had the LPE 475hp package, might be a good match for you if its still around.
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St. Jude Donor '06
90 -
For the TTA, my plug wires would bring 500 too. I meant for original parts that may (or may not) be available. So really just forward thinking incase repro parts aren't made.
How would I know if these are Jeal cams or not?
There were like 5 more black interior colored cars (I think) than grey. Or I have it backwards...
I'm concerned (I think) about milage and mods that I didn't control.
And I KNOW I sound like a woman here!!!
For the TTA, my plug wires would bring 500 too. I meant for original parts that may (or may not) be available. So really just forward thinking incase repro parts aren't made.
How would I know if these are Jeal cams or not?
There were like 5 more black interior colored cars (I think) than grey. Or I have it backwards...
I'm concerned (I think) about milage and mods that I didn't control.
And I KNOW I sound like a woman here!!!
Last edited by Zethco; 10-03-2005 at 10:58 PM.
#14
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Originally Posted by Zethco
How would I know if these are Jeal cams or not?
When your car is running like crap and you hear a loud mettalic sound coming from the engine.
Pictures coming shortly of damage done by Jeal cams.
#15
Safety Car
Where did this Jeal Cam info start? I don't see any mention of Jeal cams with the car in question.
Zethco, you sound like you would be happier a stock or stock appearing car. That first car may not be your cup of tea. Nice, all stock or stock appearing ZR-1's will bring more money in the future. That's why I insisted on maintaining a stock appearance when I did the top end mods on my car. I like a sleeper anyway.
BTW, Jeal cams have a horrible rep but the old Jeal headers were excellent.
Zethco, you sound like you would be happier a stock or stock appearing car. That first car may not be your cup of tea. Nice, all stock or stock appearing ZR-1's will bring more money in the future. That's why I insisted on maintaining a stock appearance when I did the top end mods on my car. I like a sleeper anyway.
BTW, Jeal cams have a horrible rep but the old Jeal headers were excellent.
Last edited by RatRacer; 10-03-2005 at 11:36 PM.
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Originally Posted by RatRacer
Where did this Jeal Cam info start? I don't see any mention of Jeal cams with the car in question.
Zethco, you sound like you would be happier a stock or stock appearing car. That first car may not be your cup of tea. Nice, all stock or stock appearing ZR-1's will bring more money in the future. That's why I insisted on maintaining a stock appearance when I did the top end mods on my car. I like a sleeper anyway.
BTW, Jeal cams have a horrible rep but the old Jeal headers were excellent.
Zethco, you sound like you would be happier a stock or stock appearing car. That first car may not be your cup of tea. Nice, all stock or stock appearing ZR-1's will bring more money in the future. That's why I insisted on maintaining a stock appearance when I did the top end mods on my car. I like a sleeper anyway.
BTW, Jeal cams have a horrible rep but the old Jeal headers were excellent.
From the ad:
Rare color combination - Admiral Blue, Light Gray interior
D.R.M. Motorsports 475 H.P. engine package with Jeal cams
D.R.M. Motorsports coil over suspension package.
D.R.M. Motorsports modified cold air intake system.
4:10 rear differential gears
MSD ignition, Magnecor plug wires
Kirt White short-shifter
Baer eradispeed two-piece brake rotors
Grand Sport brake calipers
Halogen headlights
B & B tri-flo exhaust with 3" pipes
Interior soundproofing, aircraft materials used throughout the car.
Polished engine
Multiple recent car show winner.
D.R.M. Motorsports 475 H.P. engine package with Jeal cams
D.R.M. Motorsports coil over suspension package.
D.R.M. Motorsports modified cold air intake system.
4:10 rear differential gears
MSD ignition, Magnecor plug wires
Kirt White short-shifter
Baer eradispeed two-piece brake rotors
Grand Sport brake calipers
Halogen headlights
B & B tri-flo exhaust with 3" pipes
Interior soundproofing, aircraft materials used throughout the car.
Polished engine
Multiple recent car show winner.
#17
Safety Car
In that case, I'd deduct the cost of a set of stock cams and refinishing the top end from the asking price of that car.
Gotta love Admiral Blue. Where'd that ad come from?
Gotta love Admiral Blue. Where'd that ad come from?
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Originally Posted by Zethco
90 -
For the TTA, my plug wires would bring 500 too. I meant for original parts that may (or may not) be available. So really just forward thinking incase repro parts aren't made.
How would I know if these are Jeal cams or not?
There were like 5 more black interior colored cars (I think) than grey. Or I have it backwards...
I'm concerned (I think) about milage and mods that I didn't control.
And I KNOW I sound like a woman here!!!
For the TTA, my plug wires would bring 500 too. I meant for original parts that may (or may not) be available. So really just forward thinking incase repro parts aren't made.
How would I know if these are Jeal cams or not?
There were like 5 more black interior colored cars (I think) than grey. Or I have it backwards...
I'm concerned (I think) about milage and mods that I didn't control.
And I KNOW I sound like a woman here!!!