RedZR

Gang,

I have been chasing some oil seepage at the front my pan on my 1991 (31k miles) for a few months. It appears that it is seeping from the gasket on each corner in the front of the pan.

I have resealed the bolts and I still have seepage and am in the process of changing the gasket. I can see where it is seeping between the block and pan so I am in the process of removing the pan bolts and will be pulling the pan down tomorrow. The only troublesome thing I encounteded is that I will have to jack the motor up a tad so the very front bolt can be removed (the bolt is a tad too long to remove- the washer part of the bolt hits the crossmember).

A few questions:
1) The service manual did not mention anything about that front bolt clearance issue and elevating the motor- has anyone else experienced that?
2) it appears to be a very tight fit in the front of the pan. I assume the best plan is to hold the rear of the pan down while installing the front and simply elevate the back into place after the front is in position?
3) any other tricks I should know about?
4) I have 2 gaskets- the oem one that has the bead of silicone and one from Kurt White that does not. I was going to use Hi-Tack sealer on the gasket regardless of whichever one I used. An thought on which one would be best?

Thanks for any advice you can provide!
Dan
Thanks guys

lbs90ZR

I'm using Kurt's gasket for 3000 miles with no leaks and no sealants applied except for loctite 242 on bolts. Oem gasket is probably worth 4 times it's original value since NLA. Can't help on clearance, mine was out of the car. I was under the impression they could be removed without jacking engine.

DMark

I have the same seepage issue with that front bolt. Not enough of an oil leak to be harmful...., just enough of a drip to **** me off.

If you figure out a way to get to that bolt, please post because I'll be lurking.

Thanks,

Jeffvette

You can get the pan off. You just need to remove the K-rails and then everything comes out.... well to a certain extent.

Rkreigh

not really much of a mechanic but I now have a 4 post lift and have questions for those who have been there, done that

looks like the motor mounts are on the k frame braces, so I thought of supporting the engine with a flat piece of wood under the oil pan, dropping the kframes, and then supporting the engine mounts to drop the oil pan. my factory manual is lost after the move

can someone give some good hints on doing this?? is kurt white the only source for the gasket. don't want to just tighten the bolts, I want to drop the pan and clean everything up and put a fresh gasket up there.

thanks jeff or anyone who has "been there, done that"

Jeffvette

No need to support the motor. The mounts are actually goinginto the frame above the K-rail. The K-rail was added as additional support. It's bolted in with (2) 15mm and (2) 13mm bolts.

RedZR

Well, I finished the gasket replacement on #921. I discovered that I did not need to elevate the motor to remove that front bolt. After you get it clear from the threads you basically tilt it sideways and can wiggle it out- no problem.

I used the OEM gasket and used some High-Tak gasket sealer to hold it in place as I installed it. It was a pretty easy job and took about 3 to 4 hours in total.

I ran the car for a bit and no leaks or seeps appeared.

Dan

Rkreigh

thanks!

the front of my pan leaks too and now that I have a lift it's time to tackle this job. sounds pretty ez once you get the k frame braces off. any special tools I should consider?? anyone have an oil pan gasket they want to sell??

probably wait until after carlisle just in case I can find one up there.

Jagdpanzer

What kind of lift did you get?

Jeffvette

Look into a ratcheting box wrench set. It makes it easier on the 13mm bolts that go into the frame as the headers get in the way a bit.

I've got a pan gasket and can bring it to Carlisle.

Rkreigh

sold thanks jeff, see you in carlisle and thanks for the tips

Aurora40

I was getting ready to do the pan gasket replacement, but noticed I need some additional parts. The FSM says to replace the o-ring on the oil pickup when taking the oil pan off. However I cannot find a part # for that on the KW parts list? My car is a 1990, anyone know the part #?

Also, the manual states you have to remove stuff like the clutch housing cover. Is this necessary?

My car has a slow drip on the rear driver's side of the pan. I assume it is not the drain from the "V" because it seems to drip more when the car sits for a couple days or more.

cv67

Whew, guess I got lucky, snugging the bolts up took care of some slight drips. Still holding after 2 years.

RedZR

[QUOTE=Aurora40;1562981840]I was getting ready to do the pan gasket replacement, but noticed I need some additional parts. The FSM says to replace the o-ring on the oil pickup when taking the oil pan off. However I cannot find a part # for that on the KW parts list? My car is a 1990, anyone know the part #?

I have a spare gasket and o ring if you want to buy everything you need to do the job. Its actually pretty easy.

Dan

Rkreigh

I think replacing the O ring on the oil pickup is a preventative measure and recommended when you do the gasket.

please correct me if I'm wrong. I didn't drop the oil pickup and just changed the pan gasket. hope I didn't screw up!!

getting to those little front 8 MM bolts is still a bugger. I managed to get them out with an open end wrench. getting them back in was more difficult getting them to start threading, what I learned is don't tighten up the pan bolts until you get the front ones started.

any tips from the pros is appreciated.

I bough my lift from norther tools, it's a 9k cheapo (1800 shipped to my door) but it works just fine and is sturdy.

I now have my vettes stacked and can keep the Ms. happy parking her ride inside too.

thanks!

WydGlydJim

I just took the rails out when I tightened my front bolts. Just makes it easier sometimes to gain the clearence neccessary.

Jeffvette

Ron, you are fine just replacing the gasket.

Aurora40

I've already got the gasket, just need the o-ring. Do you know the PN for it? I've got to order a few parts for the Aurora anyway (assuming of course the o-ring is still available from GM). Thanks!

RedZR

I am not sure what the part number is- but I did purchase it fron Kurt White. It arrived within a few days (his service is very good).

DMark

$1800!

I need one of those. What is the part number?

Thanks,