First Cool Day of Driving: SES Code 43 and 66
#2
Team Owner
Thread Starter
ok..code 43 is knock sensor which I had before. Could that be an old code that needs to be cleared....if so, how do you clear the codes?
#3
Team Owner
Thread Starter
Well, I disconnected the neg batt and drove it for 30 minutes with no light....my ZR-1s have always thrown a code on the first cool or hot day in the change of seasons..oh well.
#5
Team Owner
Thread Starter
#6
Team Owner
Thread Starter
Anybody? Is this thing on?
Code 43 turned out to be ESC Circuit Error (what the hell is that?)
I feel pretty sure that the Code 66 was because I disconnected the Power Key to remove the bulb...but what is Code 43?
Code 43 turned out to be ESC Circuit Error (what the hell is that?)
I feel pretty sure that the Code 66 was because I disconnected the Power Key to remove the bulb...but what is Code 43?
#7
Drifting
The Code 43 ESC Circuit Error has to do with your DIS Module (located on the underside of the plenum). I don't have my book with me to look at Code 66. If your code 43 is recurring you probably have an issue with your DIS module...expensive little bugger too! Been there replaced that!
#8
Team Owner
Thread Starter
The Code 43 ESC Circuit Error has to do with your DIS Module (located on the underside of the plenum). I don't have my book with me to look at Code 66. If your code 43 is recurring you probably have an issue with your DIS module...expensive little bugger too! Been there replaced that!
#9
Drifting
It is pretty easy to replace yes. Remove the plenum...flip it over unbolt the DIS Module...and bolt in a new one. Marc Haibeck has a spare that he loans out...
#10
The book also says that code 43 can be a bad connection at the knock sensor, ECM, or ESC module. (Maybe melted wire on knock sensor) I doubt this is likely but, the book says it's possible. From reading the flow chart on it, it seems that you need a scan tool to properly test everything. I assume that you have a laptop. If so, you can download Datamaster and order the cable. This way you can check everything out yourself. Let me know if you want the steps from the flow chart.
#13
http://www.helminc.com/helm/product2...LM54MQVT8F3PQE
#14
Burning Brakes
Code 43 is a major PITA.
I just had the code disabled from my chip.
I chased this code for years. Replaced knock sensor (Very Easy by the way)
I don't think it is possible to make your car NOT run the test that checks your knock sensor for proper operation...It's hard wired into the system.
This one very hard to "cure"...the really bad news is that when the code is "active" you don't have full power. It set on me during an open road race this year, then unset itself in the same run.
I almost wanted to sell the car when I came home because of frustration with code 43...an intermittent electrical gremlin in my life for several years that reared it's ugly head at the most inopportune times.
It hasn't set on my car since it has been "disabled" whatever the hell that means. There is also another electrical path that run that will set the code if something is amiss, but I forget, I will try to post it later if you really want/need the info...it's in the FSM of course.
These are the things about fuel injection and electronics...they can really kick your *** sometimes. Mine seemed to be temperature related as the computer runs the test automatically when the car gets to a certain temp. I would love to know the solution that you come with.
How would you like to do everything in your power to make sure your car is perfect...spend 10 grand to attend an event with your Z then lose full power during the event because of an intermittent electrical problem you can't figure out. It sucks. But I am in this car for the duration despite all of it's shortcomings...the people on this forum have convinced me.
Keep us posted and I will keep following the thread.
Rick
I just had the code disabled from my chip.
I chased this code for years. Replaced knock sensor (Very Easy by the way)
I don't think it is possible to make your car NOT run the test that checks your knock sensor for proper operation...It's hard wired into the system.
This one very hard to "cure"...the really bad news is that when the code is "active" you don't have full power. It set on me during an open road race this year, then unset itself in the same run.
I almost wanted to sell the car when I came home because of frustration with code 43...an intermittent electrical gremlin in my life for several years that reared it's ugly head at the most inopportune times.
It hasn't set on my car since it has been "disabled" whatever the hell that means. There is also another electrical path that run that will set the code if something is amiss, but I forget, I will try to post it later if you really want/need the info...it's in the FSM of course.
These are the things about fuel injection and electronics...they can really kick your *** sometimes. Mine seemed to be temperature related as the computer runs the test automatically when the car gets to a certain temp. I would love to know the solution that you come with.
How would you like to do everything in your power to make sure your car is perfect...spend 10 grand to attend an event with your Z then lose full power during the event because of an intermittent electrical problem you can't figure out. It sucks. But I am in this car for the duration despite all of it's shortcomings...the people on this forum have convinced me.
Keep us posted and I will keep following the thread.
Rick
#15
Team Owner
Thread Starter
Thanks...I had a code 43 blink on several months ago and it hasn't come back. I don't have alot of concern at this point because I had some things apart without the batt disconnected. We'll see when it dries up outside later this week.
Question I have is that the car runs perfectly fine...no reduction in power etc...
Question I have is that the car runs perfectly fine...no reduction in power etc...
Last edited by LowFlight; 10-23-2007 at 05:06 PM.
#16
Drifting
Thanks...I had a code 43 blink on several months ago and it hasn't come back. I don't have alot of concern at this point because I had some things apart without the batt disconnected. We'll see when it dries up outside later this week.
Question I have is that the car runs perfectly fine...no reduction in power etc...
Question I have is that the car runs perfectly fine...no reduction in power etc...
#17
Burning Brakes
Ya know...now that I htink about it...Code 43 is not DIS module related. It is as stated...for the Cam Sensor. I have an intermittent Code 43 on my car and it is caused by the connector itself...the Cam Sensor connector can easily be located by following the wire harness...it us typically underneath the brake booster. It is a three pin connector and mine gets corroded and causes the Code 43. I would check the connector to see if it is green inside...mine was. It will definitely turn on the SES light and turn off your secondaries.
Rick