HELP! My Z dynoed at 180 HP!!!!!
10-29-2007, 01:18 AM
#21
Le Mans Master
WHEW! Thanks for the info... At least I know that the engine's not screwed up.
Now, how do I fix the power key? I don't really feel like duct taping the power key in my car! The full power light briefly clicks in the middle and the I have to hold it all the way to the right to get the full power light on...
Now, how do I fix the power key? I don't really feel like duct taping the power key in my car! The full power light briefly clicks in the middle and the I have to hold it all the way to the right to get the full power light on...
Keep in mind, your power key switch in the 90 is different than power key switches in 91-95 Zs.
10-29-2007, 06:51 AM
#22
Drifting
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I used to have the same problem with my power key, but fixed it
at Bowling Green this year, with Gordon Killibrews help.
Using your roof ratchet tool, open your console, and take out the two
bolts holding it down. you must remove your console cover, which allows you to get to the dash, trim where your power key switch is located, once you have it taken apart, you'll notice the two contact
posts will be stretched apart a little bit. squeeze them together.
then, put in your power key, if done correctly you'll notice a clicking
feel when you turn your key, i then, turned on the ignition key,
to make sure the light would turn on, when i went from power on
to power off. It is a difference you can feel, when turning the key.
put that puppy back together, and do like i do, i never turn the key
to the off position. hopes this helps.
at Bowling Green this year, with Gordon Killibrews help.
Using your roof ratchet tool, open your console, and take out the two
bolts holding it down. you must remove your console cover, which allows you to get to the dash, trim where your power key switch is located, once you have it taken apart, you'll notice the two contact
posts will be stretched apart a little bit. squeeze them together.
then, put in your power key, if done correctly you'll notice a clicking
feel when you turn your key, i then, turned on the ignition key,
to make sure the light would turn on, when i went from power on
to power off. It is a difference you can feel, when turning the key.
put that puppy back together, and do like i do, i never turn the key
to the off position. hopes this helps.
10-29-2007, 08:25 AM
#24
Drifting
Is yours the the red one I've seem running around lately? I'm in Grayslake not far from you. Sounds like the secondaries aren't opening. Although if there were a sensor issue and running rich you sould be throwing a code and the check engine light would be on.
Since your here in Chicagoland don't fool around with just any vette shop, even they might not know the LT5 engines, go directly to arguably the best ZR-1 guy in the nation Marc Haibeck. He's in Addison.
Here's a link to his business...
http://www.zr1specialist.com/
There are a bunch of us here in Chicagoland with ZR-1's and some fairly in depth knowledge. I'd be happy to take a look at the car as well, just in case it's something obvious like vacume line off a MAP sensor.
Let me know...
Hans
Since your here in Chicagoland don't fool around with just any vette shop, even they might not know the LT5 engines, go directly to arguably the best ZR-1 guy in the nation Marc Haibeck. He's in Addison.
Here's a link to his business...
http://www.zr1specialist.com/
There are a bunch of us here in Chicagoland with ZR-1's and some fairly in depth knowledge. I'd be happy to take a look at the car as well, just in case it's something obvious like vacume line off a MAP sensor.
Let me know...
Hans
Last edited by ccmano; 10-29-2007 at 08:29 AM.
10-29-2007, 08:59 AM
#25
Tech Contributor
10-29-2007, 09:45 AM
#26
Melting Slicks
10-29-2007, 10:02 AM
#27
Le Mans Master
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St. Jude Donor '06
You should also check for codes
A stored code can also keep the power key from working
If not that then replace the switch the power key goes into
A stored code can also keep the power key from working
If not that then replace the switch the power key goes into
10-29-2007, 10:04 AM
#28
Le Mans Master
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St. Jude Donor '06
I used to have the same problem with my power key, but fixed it
at Bowling Green this year, with Gordon Killibrews help.
Using your roof ratchet tool, open your console, and take out the two
bolts holding it down. you must remove your console cover, which allows you to get to the dash, trim where your power key switch is located, once you have it taken apart, you'll notice the two contact
posts will be stretched apart a little bit. squeeze them together.
then, put in your power key, if done correctly you'll notice a clicking
feel when you turn your key, i then, turned on the ignition key,
to make sure the light would turn on, when i went from power on
to power off. It is a difference you can feel, when turning the key.
put that puppy back together, and do like i do, i never turn the key
to the off position. hopes this helps.
at Bowling Green this year, with Gordon Killibrews help.
Using your roof ratchet tool, open your console, and take out the two
bolts holding it down. you must remove your console cover, which allows you to get to the dash, trim where your power key switch is located, once you have it taken apart, you'll notice the two contact
posts will be stretched apart a little bit. squeeze them together.
then, put in your power key, if done correctly you'll notice a clicking
feel when you turn your key, i then, turned on the ignition key,
to make sure the light would turn on, when i went from power on
to power off. It is a difference you can feel, when turning the key.
put that puppy back together, and do like i do, i never turn the key
to the off position. hopes this helps.
Didnt the key default to off every time the car is turned off after 90?
10-29-2007, 12:17 PM
#29
Drifting
Thread Starter
I'm a little apprehensive about taking stuff apart myself, but I'll give it a shot.
As for the half power thing, I REALLY can't wait until I get this resolved. I was thinking that if it feels just as beastly as the C6 now, I CAN'T WAIT until I get her at full power!
As for the Grayslake guy, I used to live in Grayslake until I moved in with my fiance (I write for the Lake County Journals... I'm the sports editor, so maybe you've read my crap) but my ZR-1's black. I just bought it from Rockenbach, however, I would like to meet up with you just to get some basic ZR-1 questions answered. I've grown up around C4's (my dad's got an '84 that he bought new and kept it in showroom stock condition) and I had an '88 35th Anniversary before, but this is an entirely different animal.
Anyway, thanks for all your help guys. Now I know I won't have to get the engine rebuilt!
As for the half power thing, I REALLY can't wait until I get this resolved. I was thinking that if it feels just as beastly as the C6 now, I CAN'T WAIT until I get her at full power!
As for the Grayslake guy, I used to live in Grayslake until I moved in with my fiance (I write for the Lake County Journals... I'm the sports editor, so maybe you've read my crap) but my ZR-1's black. I just bought it from Rockenbach, however, I would like to meet up with you just to get some basic ZR-1 questions answered. I've grown up around C4's (my dad's got an '84 that he bought new and kept it in showroom stock condition) and I had an '88 35th Anniversary before, but this is an entirely different animal.
Anyway, thanks for all your help guys. Now I know I won't have to get the engine rebuilt!
Last edited by djpatrick35; 10-29-2007 at 12:20 PM.
10-29-2007, 12:56 PM
#30
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Let Marc Haibeck make you a new chip for your car. He can mail it to you- you don't have to bring your car. His chip, among other things, will make full power "on" be the default unless you turn it off which might save you having to even mess with the switch, plus it will eliminate the 1-4 skip shift, fans on earlier, few degrees more timing, etc. There are other who make chips that will essentially do the same thing, but if you are close to Marc's shop you can call him in advance and then pick it up in an hour or two. This is just his Base Chip.
Bill
Bill
10-29-2007, 01:07 PM
#31
DJ,
Don't screw around with anyone else if you live in Illinois. Make an appointment with Marc just for him to take a look at your car, if nothing else. They are ALL he works on. Get his chip, you will notice a difference in the way the car runs and cools. No more %^**$#$%^ skip shift either.
Don't screw around with anyone else if you live in Illinois. Make an appointment with Marc just for him to take a look at your car, if nothing else. They are ALL he works on. Get his chip, you will notice a difference in the way the car runs and cools. No more %^**$#$%^ skip shift either.
10-29-2007, 02:47 PM
#32
on my old 1990, the switch was wiggly and not good, I pulled the connector off the back and jumpered the connector so it would always be on... cant tell once reassembled other than it wont turn off on the dash
10-29-2007, 02:53 PM
#33
Race Director
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Using your roof ratchet tool, open your console, and take out the two
bolts holding it down. you must remove your console cover, which allows you to get to the dash, trim where your power key switch is located, once you have it taken apart, you'll notice the two contact
posts will be stretched apart a little bit. squeeze them together.
then, put in your power key, if done correctly you'll notice a clicking
feel when you turn your key, i then, turned on the ignition key,
to make sure the light would turn on, when i went from power on
to power off. It is a difference you can feel, when turning the key.
put that puppy back together, and do like i do, i never turn the key
to the off position. hopes this helps.
bolts holding it down. you must remove your console cover, which allows you to get to the dash, trim where your power key switch is located, once you have it taken apart, you'll notice the two contact
posts will be stretched apart a little bit. squeeze them together.
then, put in your power key, if done correctly you'll notice a clicking
feel when you turn your key, i then, turned on the ignition key,
to make sure the light would turn on, when i went from power on
to power off. It is a difference you can feel, when turning the key.
put that puppy back together, and do like i do, i never turn the key
to the off position. hopes this helps.
All you need is a 7mm socket and either a phillips head screwdriver or a t-15 to get the center ac vent out.
10-31-2007, 07:52 PM
#36
Drifting
Thread Starter
Update:
Well, I have yet to take it in to the shop (my stupid employer somehow lost my time sheet so I didn't get paid!!!!)
But, I now have it on the Full Power setting all the time. It seems that my "butt dyno" is a little off because it feels about the same, at least in low end grunt. It always threw me back in my seat before, and obviously it does the same now.
The one thing I have noticed is that it feels like what I would assume a nitrous system would at about 4500-5000 RPM. It seems to kick in at a certain level to give me more power where I didn't have any before.
But one thing still scares me. When I do feel this kick, there sometimes a noticeable lag in power - especially in second gear. Sometimes, when I'm accelerating hard in second gear, I reach about 2500 RPM and it's a huge noticeable lag that feels like a misfire or something... I'm definitely going to take it in now.
As I said, before I took delivery on the car, the dealer worked on it for about two weeks, but they didn't even know about the power key until I told them. So maybe they might have messed with the motor for a non-existent problem and here I am picking up the pieces...
I'll keep you guys posted...
--Dan
Well, I have yet to take it in to the shop (my stupid employer somehow lost my time sheet so I didn't get paid!!!!)
But, I now have it on the Full Power setting all the time. It seems that my "butt dyno" is a little off because it feels about the same, at least in low end grunt. It always threw me back in my seat before, and obviously it does the same now.
The one thing I have noticed is that it feels like what I would assume a nitrous system would at about 4500-5000 RPM. It seems to kick in at a certain level to give me more power where I didn't have any before.
But one thing still scares me. When I do feel this kick, there sometimes a noticeable lag in power - especially in second gear. Sometimes, when I'm accelerating hard in second gear, I reach about 2500 RPM and it's a huge noticeable lag that feels like a misfire or something... I'm definitely going to take it in now.
As I said, before I took delivery on the car, the dealer worked on it for about two weeks, but they didn't even know about the power key until I told them. So maybe they might have messed with the motor for a non-existent problem and here I am picking up the pieces...
I'll keep you guys posted...
--Dan
10-31-2007, 08:03 PM
#37
Team Owner
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St. Jude Donor '05
Id go get all your money back and take it to Mark. No more issues.
Keep us posted.
I hate BSers and "mechanics" that guess and throw parts at cars to fix problems. That burns me for some reason..
Keep us posted.
I hate BSers and "mechanics" that guess and throw parts at cars to fix problems. That burns me for some reason..
10-31-2007, 09:15 PM
#38
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If/when you take your car to Marc, you will then know EVERYTHING about your particular car that you need to know- right down to back-up lights that might not work or oil drips from an improperly sealed header bolt. Marc will give you this is writing for your records and will keep a copy for his records or when you ever come back. The man is that thorough. Quite a rarity these days.
There are others that are excellent- many are right here on this forum, but since you are close to Marc you are fortunate indeed. If you were in Texas, there are people there too-and lots of other places as well. This forum is a wealth of knowledge and talent willing to help ya..
Marc is just in that top handful of people who will help you know more about your car than you may want to know or can afford to know right now..but knowledge is power and you won't have to guess from then on. If you have original injectors, there is a good place to start and then you move under the plenum. If I am not mistaken, Marc is a degreed engineer who found his thrill working' on the King of that hill!
My car is unfortunately now for sale and I can take anybody to Marc and he will be able to tell them all the truth there is to know about what's what with my car as he is the only place I would take it.
There are others that are excellent- many are right here on this forum, but since you are close to Marc you are fortunate indeed. If you were in Texas, there are people there too-and lots of other places as well. This forum is a wealth of knowledge and talent willing to help ya..
Marc is just in that top handful of people who will help you know more about your car than you may want to know or can afford to know right now..but knowledge is power and you won't have to guess from then on. If you have original injectors, there is a good place to start and then you move under the plenum. If I am not mistaken, Marc is a degreed engineer who found his thrill working' on the King of that hill!
My car is unfortunately now for sale and I can take anybody to Marc and he will be able to tell them all the truth there is to know about what's what with my car as he is the only place I would take it.
10-31-2007, 09:20 PM
#39
Team Owner
