opps threaded quick connect fitting boke off
#2
Race Director
If its on the thermostat housing you might as well just take it out and lets figure out what you broke, If it is on the lines well I have spare lines.
But lets see exactly which one you broke and where it broke.
johnny
#4
what broke is the metal connector right at the base of the therm housing .its the one that thread into the therm housing.i have the housing out of the car the connector had rotted at the base . the problem is we cant seem to get the piece thats threaded out .its very deteriorated . there seems to be a red substance either ,red threadlocker or sred high temp silicone . tried a easy out but it wouldnt budge .dont have a way to do pics sorry
#5
JP,
I posted part #'s for the metal "male threaded fitting" a very long time ago when you were looking and I don't ever recall you posting back that you bought and fixed or not! The only spare t'stat housing and hose system that I have is in very good condition and I wasn't going to disassemble mine to confirm the fix. I figured you would have done that and posted back. I quite sure of the information I posted. I've also a couple solutions for the other "female" connection that's part of the hose. In KW's snapshot the metal part he has pictured is the information I posted a very long time ago.
I'm changing a hard drive this evening and can't do the searches to find my old post and as a matter of fact I don't recall which forum you asked the question on! If I get time this evening I'll post back if not in the AM.
*****,
Since you've got a "weeper" I guess you might get to attempt the fix first!
-Dave
I posted part #'s for the metal "male threaded fitting" a very long time ago when you were looking and I don't ever recall you posting back that you bought and fixed or not! The only spare t'stat housing and hose system that I have is in very good condition and I wasn't going to disassemble mine to confirm the fix. I figured you would have done that and posted back. I quite sure of the information I posted. I've also a couple solutions for the other "female" connection that's part of the hose. In KW's snapshot the metal part he has pictured is the information I posted a very long time ago.
I'm changing a hard drive this evening and can't do the searches to find my old post and as a matter of fact I don't recall which forum you asked the question on! If I get time this evening I'll post back if not in the AM.
*****,
Since you've got a "weeper" I guess you might get to attempt the fix first!
-Dave
#7
I believe the thread is 1/2 NPT. The problem with getting them out is that the original fitting is a crappy die cast part and falls apart as you try to remove it. Soak it with some penetrating oil, heat it and then try the easy-out. Good luck!
PS: I have a thermostat housing that someone heated to much and melted the threads. I have since bored the hole out and Im going to weld a new sleave in and re-thread it. Hope you dont have to do anything this drastic.
PS: I have a thermostat housing that someone heated to much and melted the threads. I have since bored the hole out and Im going to weld a new sleave in and re-thread it. Hope you dont have to do anything this drastic.
#8
Race Director
JP,
I posted part #'s for the metal "male threaded fitting" a very long time ago when you were looking and I don't ever recall you posting back that you bought and fixed or not! The only spare t'stat housing and hose system that I have is in very good condition and I wasn't going to disassemble mine to confirm the fix. I figured you would have done that and posted back. I quite sure of the information I posted. I've also a couple solutions for the other "female" connection that's part of the hose. In KW's snapshot the metal part he has pictured is the information I posted a very long time ago.
-Dave
I posted part #'s for the metal "male threaded fitting" a very long time ago when you were looking and I don't ever recall you posting back that you bought and fixed or not! The only spare t'stat housing and hose system that I have is in very good condition and I wasn't going to disassemble mine to confirm the fix. I figured you would have done that and posted back. I quite sure of the information I posted. I've also a couple solutions for the other "female" connection that's part of the hose. In KW's snapshot the metal part he has pictured is the information I posted a very long time ago.
-Dave
I cant remember for the life of me what I might have been refering to, Non of my housings had ever broken, but It could have been part numbers for a broken housing someone had that I was interested in buying if parts could be had.
************************
*****,
certain red thread locker must be heated before it will break loose!
If it will not come loose and it is already broken I would drill out the old busted up stuff and tap out the remaining metal and it will be good as new.
If this is not something you would want to do any machine shop worth its salt can remove this for you.
I would do it for you but im sure you want it done now.
johnny
#9
The "male" threaded fitting that has a "female" heater hose feature is GM part# 24503681 and is quite inexpensive and is available from a couple of different aftermarket suppliers also.
The replacement could appear to be physically smaller because the originals "expanded" considerably and the first response from "everyone" is "that's not it"! The sealing surface and the retainer is part of the fitting. If you only needed the retainer that's GM# 10089613.
If for some reason the male end of the heater hose failed or the rubber heater hose failed there's several part #'d heater hoses 5/8" that have the correct "male end" on it and you just dremel the crimp on the pipe, fit the hose and have a new crimp installed by either a hydraulic line shop or an auto parts store that fabricates A/C hoses. It appears that the 5/8" hose could be just straight as the radius of the bend from the t'stat housing to the "crimp" that needs modified is quite gradual.
The other 3/4" hose that has a "female" coupler on it can be duplicated from a 3/4" heater hose, a fitting, dremeling a crimp and reassembling it.
Attention needs to be given to the removal of the crimp and the reassembly and crimp to assure it's in the correct relationship as the original. Fit it, install it, index it with some type of a marker and have it crimped. Buy your crimps ahead of time so that you can slip them over the hose before assembly and fit. I have never done this on an LT5 but I've assembled A/C and P/S lines using the same procedures and it's a quality fix. You should be able to duplicate the crimp and all should be well. The aggravating aspect of the repair seems to be the hose assembly and the t'stat housing needs to, or should be removed from the car.
If the fitting that needs removed from the housing is a problem you can cut the exposed end of it off and carefully split the threaded nipple that is left in the housing for removal. This was a very common problem on early 2.8 and 3.1 A-body GM cars and only the "very reckless" ruined the threaded portion of the intake. Again the "very reckless"!
* I'm quite confident the 3/4" hose and fitting isn't a problem. I'll post information on them later. I would guess the price of the fittings, hoses and the labor of the crimps is less than the price posted for the fitting and retainers from KW. That would give you new hoses, retainers, fittings and sealing surfaces for the bottom most end of the heater pipe/hose assembly.
-----------------------------------
*****,
It's not a difficult fix! Patience!
The replacement could appear to be physically smaller because the originals "expanded" considerably and the first response from "everyone" is "that's not it"! The sealing surface and the retainer is part of the fitting. If you only needed the retainer that's GM# 10089613.
If for some reason the male end of the heater hose failed or the rubber heater hose failed there's several part #'d heater hoses 5/8" that have the correct "male end" on it and you just dremel the crimp on the pipe, fit the hose and have a new crimp installed by either a hydraulic line shop or an auto parts store that fabricates A/C hoses. It appears that the 5/8" hose could be just straight as the radius of the bend from the t'stat housing to the "crimp" that needs modified is quite gradual.
The other 3/4" hose that has a "female" coupler on it can be duplicated from a 3/4" heater hose, a fitting, dremeling a crimp and reassembling it.
Attention needs to be given to the removal of the crimp and the reassembly and crimp to assure it's in the correct relationship as the original. Fit it, install it, index it with some type of a marker and have it crimped. Buy your crimps ahead of time so that you can slip them over the hose before assembly and fit. I have never done this on an LT5 but I've assembled A/C and P/S lines using the same procedures and it's a quality fix. You should be able to duplicate the crimp and all should be well. The aggravating aspect of the repair seems to be the hose assembly and the t'stat housing needs to, or should be removed from the car.
If the fitting that needs removed from the housing is a problem you can cut the exposed end of it off and carefully split the threaded nipple that is left in the housing for removal. This was a very common problem on early 2.8 and 3.1 A-body GM cars and only the "very reckless" ruined the threaded portion of the intake. Again the "very reckless"!
* I'm quite confident the 3/4" hose and fitting isn't a problem. I'll post information on them later. I would guess the price of the fittings, hoses and the labor of the crimps is less than the price posted for the fitting and retainers from KW. That would give you new hoses, retainers, fittings and sealing surfaces for the bottom most end of the heater pipe/hose assembly.
-----------------------------------
*****,
It's not a difficult fix! Patience!
Last edited by WVZR-1; 12-07-2008 at 02:16 PM.
#10
what broke is the metal connector right at the base of the therm housing .its the one that thread into the therm housing.i have the housing out of the car the connector had rotted at the base . the problem is we cant seem to get the piece thats threaded out .its very deteriorated . there seems to be a red substance either ,red threadlocker or sred high temp silicone . tried a easy out but it wouldnt budge .dont have a way to do pics sorry
I overlooked this part of your post earlier! All you need to do is "split the portion" of the threaded nipple that remains in the housing. An easy out won't do but splitting it is pretty straight forward. You could use a hacksaw blade to accomplish the "spit" I would think since it's out of the car!