MRDZR1

For those who would like to know,

I've seen a few threads regarding the proper oil type for our engine. I've heard comments about Amsoil, Royal Purple, etc... but I've used RedLineOil products for more then 12 years now in my kart racing engines that rev 14200 rpm and never had any issues. Therefore, I've wrote to my contact at RedLineOil yesterday regarding my LT5 and here's what he told me.

"Martin,

It is good to hear from you again...

In your ZR1 I would recommend the 10W30, a good all around viscosity choice for this engine. The 10W40 is used by some in the ZR1, the higher viscosity can help reduce engine noise and would be an option. Our oils have very good ZDDP levels, good protection for flat tappet cams and followers, the 10W40 contains 1200 ppm phosphorus, the critical anti-wear component along with sulphur, a higher level than that of the original oil.

Regards, Dave
Red Line Oil"

So now you have an other option for your LT5. Something's for sure, I will drop 9 qts of RedLine in my LT5.

Talk to you all later!

glass slipper

The ZDDP isn't as important in our engines for several reasons. First, ZDDP is an important factor for breaking in new flat tappet cams but our cams are way past the break in phase. If you get new cams, there are ZDDP additives specifically for that purpose from the cam companies. Second, our engines have larger tappets than OHV engines reducing the loading. Third, our lift is much lower than typical OHV engines due to the smaller valves. Less lift with smaller valves means much lower valve spring pressures again reducing the loading vs an OHV engine. On OHV engines that have .700" lift on a new flat tappet cam, you might want to worry about it.

For $10-$11 per quart for Redline vs ~$4.50 per quart for Mobil 1 with the same outcome, that's a no brainer. Redline may be better, who knows. Let's just say it is better, there is no difference in wear at the end of the day which is equivalent to buying 100 octane gas for $10 a gallon to put in your bone stock ZR-1...just a waste of money.

GM recommends 5W30 for our engines, not 10W40. From the Redline website about 10W40 oil:
"Popular for medium and heavy-duty gasoline engines in light trucks."
I think that's pretty self explanatory.
Furthermore, 10W30 is recommended for temps above 0°F only so I don't think much of his "generic" viscosity recommendation. In fact, 0W30 is the best all around viscosity recommendation for the LT5 no matter what the temperature is. The 0W designation means oil gets to the critical parts of your engine faster on cold starts whether the ambient temperature is -20°F or 100°F. The "30" designation means the oil acts like any other xW30 oil giving the best of both worlds. Another no brainer.

The guy that wrote this is the typical salesman with the typical BS that comes along with it. No thanks, I'll stay with Mobil 1 in the 0W30 flavor...

PS The choice of oil is a religion to a lot of people. I'm not saying Redline is a bad oil or there are better oils so don't get offended by the above. The fact of the matter is any modern oil on the market would work just fine. Even non-synthetic would be fine for everyday driving as long as you didn't have any track days where oil temps get high. Having said that, I'm glad you're happy with Redline oil.

FASTAZU

Mobil 1 10w30.................

Aurora40

Actually, 10w30 was the initial recommendation.

glass slipper

GM has recommended 5W30 for their engines since at least 1983 for all temperatures. The owners manual states 10W30 can only be used above 0°F. Quite frankly, it never made sense to me to use 10W30 if you could get 5W30. And now that 0W30 is available, it makes no sense to not use it year round given the extra protection on cold starts especially since that's when 90% of engine wear occurs. Like I said above, any oil today will work as oil technology is light years ahead of the '80s.

Edit: I stand corrected on the 10W30 initial recommendation. A little more research after a correction from lbs90ZR below revealed 10W30 was the initial recommendation on the '90-'92 ZR-1s that used non-synthetic oil due to the lower amounts of viscosity improvers (VI) in it vs the 5W30. The VI in the 5W30 non-synthetic oil would break down under the heat/stress and the oil would lose its protection capabilities. Synthetic oils have very little to zero VI and aren't subject to the same failure. My '93 owners manual even states that if synthetic can't be used when the oil level gets low, a quart of non-synthetic can be used but only if its 10W30...no 5W30 non-synthetic. Sorry for the confusion.

xlr8nflorida

The bottom line is this - the LT-5 will easily go 100,000-150,000 miles with alot of abuse. 200,000 probably in most cases.

Now add to the fact that for most of us, these are not daily drivers.

In the past, I always used Mobil 1 XP, now I use Mobil 1 High Mileage and I call it a day. On average my oil only sees 500-1000 miles on it before I toss it for the season and refill with new.

Honestly, the other brands often use Mobil 1 as their base oil. Their marketing is alittle over the top for Amsoil, Royal Purple etc for me. If Amsoil is so damn good, why is it not more readily available? The MLM approach is kind of weak. Royal Purple, I've actually seen tests where they say its nothing special.

I guess bottom line is, the manual calls for Mobil 1. I've used Mobil 1 in all my Corvettes for 10 years and when my Corvettes hit 100,000+ miles, internally they were clean as a whistle and compression and wear wise they were almost perfect. I can pick up a 5 quart jug for $19.99. For the protection, convenience and price, I'll go with Mobil 1 everytime.

That being said, if RP or Amsoil is your thing then by all means go for it

I do use one Redline product - their fuel injector cleaner which is excellent. In my other Corvettes I use Chevron Techron.

MRDZR1

Gentlemen,
You all have good arguments! I actually agree with most of them and I'm not trying to be a pitch man for RedLineOil here. But, I've abuse it in my racing engines and had great results. But yes, we do change our oil every years which is way under the recommended milage. This is probably one of the reasons our engines last so long!

All the best!

terrydennis

If you click on this link it will take you to a page at Marc Haibeck's site. There is a link on that page to a PDF article.

http://www.zr1specialist.com/HAT%20W...dern%20oil.htm

The article recommends Amsoil for the LT5 because Phosphorus is being reduced in most other brands.

Here is a bit of it...

The Amsoil Company has addressed this issue with a product that is specifically designed for engines with flat valve lifters. It is formulated with high phosphorus and zinc levels. It meets the API SG specification that was used when the LT5 was designed. The product is named AMO 10W-40 Synthetic Premium Protection. It takes a two-pronged approach, higher EP additives and superior film strength contributed by the higher viscosity.

phrogs

many owners have used redline oils in there ZR-1s its not a new thing you found a good oil stick with it.

81c3

Amsoil for mine period.

XLR8TIN

Amsoil per Marc

lbs90ZR

My 1990 owners manual recommends 10W30 only(for the ZR-1), all temps.

They recommended 5w30 for the LT-1 in all temps, or 10w30 from 0°F and greater.

I had a 1992 Lt1 and if I remember right, the specs were the same then also. I think 92 was the first year the owners manual recommended Mobil One in the LT1, but I forget what it said for the lt5.

RL

DRM500RUBYZR-1

If each year, I am going to dump perfectly good synthetic oil with a few hundred miles on it, simply because of it's age and possible, although unlikely contamination, which is what I and many others do; Then it is simply silly to buy anything other than the Mobil One, or similar priced synthetic.
This Forum has convinced me of that.
I too use the "walmart jug" at 20-22 for 5 quarts.
I gave up on 10-30 for the exact reasons stated above by the earlier poster, in favor of the 5-30, and now agree with his thoughts on the 0-30, which will be the choice next fall.
I do pick up a couple of small bottles of the ZDDP or whatever at Carlisle each year, and add one for extra measure, and better sleep at night.
Barring tracking the Z heavily, a more expensive solution is simply that;
More expensive!

Marty
(former AMSOIL, Red Line,Purple whatever etc... junkie, now reformed)
1FUNZR1

C66 Racing

Not trying to inflame the debate, but for those interested, this is the oil mentioned above:
AMSOIL SAE Synthetic Premium Protection 10w40
(Product Code AMOQT)

This oil has zinc of about 1378 ppm, and phosphorus of about 1265 ppm. I used this oil in my 02 Z06 for several race seasons without issue before AMSOIL came out with their true racing oils.

If anyone is interested in trying this oil, please drop me a PM so I can ensure you get the best pricing possible via the AMSOIL Preferred Customer Program, about 25% below retail.

81c3

I see your point, but the price difference versus the better protection is negligible to me anyway. I would think that only putting a few hundred miles on the car each year that you would hardly have much "oil contamination" to begin with. Why not use the better oil and leave it in for 2 seasons?

DRM500RUBYZR-1

As I see your point also.
However, I do not buy into the "better protection" part of the equation.
Certainly $60.00 is negligible to me also, but I would not knowingly stand at the john, dropping in 60 one dollar bills, one at a time and flushing them away.
Specialty zealots, whether it is oil or Zaino, will always dish the " well I can afford to, so I will" argument. Well, I certainly easily can too, but having read all of the data from those with experience over the years, and after trying all of the products mentioned, I, knowingly choose not too. I'll put that $ 60.00 towards more important stuff, like more wheels!
(just kidding)
But, they make all of those products, so that we can all do what we feel most comfortable with.
Companies like the original Mobil or Meguiars, most likely have more research and development advanced chemical engineer guys and gals on staff, than the other companies have employees. They have spent countless millions over the years perfecting their product. That may not guarantee the best product possible, but it sure as heck yields something.

I have used Mobil 1 since 1976, in all kinds of rides. From big-blocks to Prius', without lubrication failure incident.
( Don't tell Mr. Rippie that I stopped using the Red Line, oh, the warranty expired long ago anyway)
I have nothing bad to say about Amsoil or Zaino etc. but it ain't better just because it costs more, or beacuse it works good on utility trucks.
I gave up that line of thinking a long, long time ago.

Mobil One, 0w30 with zinc phosphurous additive works for me!
What works for you is OK with me too!
Put the $60.00 bucks in the collection basket at church, and use the Mobil!


Marty
1FUNZR1

tomtom72

I think I bought the wrong oil for my Z. I bought 10w40 AMO1G-CA, not the AMOQT that you have listed. What bad effects, if any, may I expect if I actually use what I purchased in my Z? I realize that the "1G" and the "QT" are volume designators.

Oh yea, I'm guilty of being in the camp of wasting oil. My change intervals used to go no more than 3k miles, if that, until this yr.....I actually went 5,065 miles with out changing the oil...I was sweating it out like I had the IRS on me! I know I need some couch time for this affliction!

Also, I never thought about what Glass Slipper presented about the valve spring load and the size of our lifters. That makes sense to me. The lifters in an LT5 are huge when I compare them to the lifters in my old LT-1 mechanical cam motor from the dark ages.


Tom

glass slipper

That's funny, I never read where high levels of ZDDP were REQUIRED for the LT5. Guess I missed that memo from GM.

Aurora40

I agree. But to me, the problem is, what do they specify? I don't know what exactly the LT5 needs. All GM said is that the oil they came with was good for it. But no one makes that anymore...

The EPA has forced oils to change. For the better? I dunno. Are they still ok for our cars? I dunno that either. Some people will figure they are, as there is no evidence they aren't (though that evidence may come in the form of a blown engine).

Some will figure they will play it safe and throw money at the problem. Buying an oil that is similar in additives to the pre-EPA stuff GM recommended. Of course there's no evidence that it has the "right" stuff either. All you can do is take your guess.

It's not unlike the ZF fluid. The stuff GM suggests is long gone. Some guess cheap with the GM/Pennzoil stuff, some guess expensive with the Castrol stuff.

Who is to say which fluid is more "right" than the other? If your guess makes you feel better and enjoy the car more, then have at it.

Edit: My only anecdotal contribution is to say that the pre-2000 Northstar motors also use flat-tappet followers, and there are plenty of high-miles ones that run regular/cheapo oil. I've not heard of any failures of the followers or anything because of it.

C66 Racing

Tom,
The AMO1G and AMOQT are the exact same oil in different containers. AMOQT as you determined comes in quart bottles and the AMO1G comes in gallon bottles. I normally list the QT option on the forum as that is what most people are used to dealing with, but for my diesel trucks, I normally buy by the gallon.