Looking for Brakes
#1
Heel & Toe
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Looking for Brakes
Hello
I am looking to upgrade the brakes in my 90 ZR1 #201 and wonder if anyone has any brake kits for sale. I have noticed in the past people with Wilwood and baer kits having good results at events and would like to move in that direction. So if you are looking to get rid of some brakes drop me a line.
Thanks
I am looking to upgrade the brakes in my 90 ZR1 #201 and wonder if anyone has any brake kits for sale. I have noticed in the past people with Wilwood and baer kits having good results at events and would like to move in that direction. So if you are looking to get rid of some brakes drop me a line.
Thanks
#2
1994 Admiral Blue ZZZZZR1
Before you go to big brakes consider this....
Get C5 / C6 calipers (with adapters)... Good Hawk Pads and you have a great brake package for very little.
Many have done it (including me) and love it!
Figure... $200 for calipers or $300 for them powdercoated your favorite color. $100 for adapters $100 for ss lines, and $120 for pads.
But if you decide on Wilwoods or Baer, those are great as well!
David
Get C5 / C6 calipers (with adapters)... Good Hawk Pads and you have a great brake package for very little.
Many have done it (including me) and love it!
Figure... $200 for calipers or $300 for them powdercoated your favorite color. $100 for adapters $100 for ss lines, and $120 for pads.
But if you decide on Wilwoods or Baer, those are great as well!
David
#3
Racer
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Location: Sherbrooke Quebec
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Track days? Or just braking power improvement? One thing is for sure don't go with cross drilled unit if you want to race. They'll eventually crack! Some SCCA guy's use the standard stock C5/C6 caliper & rotors with race pads and they are pleased with the improvement and consistent braking power and that for little money compare to Wilwood's, Baer's or other hi end kits! + you can use stock A-Mold wheels. The stock disk is actually really good and better then some aftermarket units + you'll remove unsprung weight from your front suspension!
have fun with your up-grade!
PS: Just SS lines, race brake fluid, bias spring with Frt& Rr track pads on your C4 stock brake system will make a big difference.
have fun with your up-grade!
PS: Just SS lines, race brake fluid, bias spring with Frt& Rr track pads on your C4 stock brake system will make a big difference.
#4
Burning Brakes
Scoops and some 3" flex hose to get some cool air to the rotors is just as important and a lot cheaper than a whole Baer or Willwood system. What are you going to be using the car for?
#5
[QUOTE=MRDZR1;1573174876]Track days? Or just braking power improvement? One thing is for sure don't go with cross drilled unit if you want to race. They'll eventually crack!
This is so overplayed its not even funny.
Baer drilled Rotors have a 3 year warranty. Parts don't last forever.
I've had mine for 3+ years and they look new.
This is so overplayed its not even funny.
Baer drilled Rotors have a 3 year warranty. Parts don't last forever.
I've had mine for 3+ years and they look new.
#6
Racer
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[QUOTE=xlr8nflorida;1573180904]
Then Baer have great gear! I've seen crack rotors so...
Track days? Or just braking power improvement? One thing is for sure don't go with cross drilled unit if you want to race. They'll eventually crack!
This is so overplayed its not even funny.
Baer drilled Rotors have a 3 year warranty. Parts don't last forever.
I've had mine for 3+ years and they look new.
This is so overplayed its not even funny.
Baer drilled Rotors have a 3 year warranty. Parts don't last forever.
I've had mine for 3+ years and they look new.
#7
[QUOTE=MRDZR1;1573182827]Yeah, but they were probably some cheap rotors from China that were drilled after the fact.
Baer Rotors are like $1,200. Do you really think people are going pay that to have them crack a few months later?
If you buy quality you can buy drilled.
3 year warranty is plenty for me. What do you want lifetime?
Baer Rotors are like $1,200. Do you really think people are going pay that to have them crack a few months later?
If you buy quality you can buy drilled.
3 year warranty is plenty for me. What do you want lifetime?
#8
Le Mans Master
Baer rotors are cast in China. They just aren't cheap. They are also machined after the fact. Baer has very nice customer service, you might call them and confirm this if you bought them under some impression they were non-chinese or drilled and slotted as part of the casting process.
I suspect how they wear has a great deal to do with how they are used. Are you hard on your car?
I suspect how they wear has a great deal to do with how they are used. Are you hard on your car?
#9
Baer´s rotors are cast with cross-drilling in mind, from the material specified, to curved vanes, behind which the holes are placed to minimize potential crack migration.
BAER rotors start out in China but the final machine work is done in the United States.
As stated there is a 3 year warranty.
We all know the rotors from China that I was referring to. They crack, rust, perform poorly and are usually offered 4 rotors for $200 on ebay.
Just for the record, any rotor say for instance slotted can crack under high heat conditions. Yes, drilling ups your risks.
My rotors are 3+ years over, have zero rust and have seen many stops from triple digits on 6 piston calipers.
If BAER Rotors crack, you get replacement rotors for the first 3 years.
After that, you can buy a new set, its no big deal, drilled rotors look better then generic NAPA rotors under an open wheel.
The cracking is way overplayed. JeffVette sees considerable track time and his rotors aren't cracked.
Even if I did 100% track time, which should have no slots or drilled holes, I'd probably still go with drilled/slotted for the appearance of the rotors behind the open wheel.
It would just cost me more $$ but what else is new in life??
BAER rotors start out in China but the final machine work is done in the United States.
As stated there is a 3 year warranty.
We all know the rotors from China that I was referring to. They crack, rust, perform poorly and are usually offered 4 rotors for $200 on ebay.
Just for the record, any rotor say for instance slotted can crack under high heat conditions. Yes, drilling ups your risks.
My rotors are 3+ years over, have zero rust and have seen many stops from triple digits on 6 piston calipers.
If BAER Rotors crack, you get replacement rotors for the first 3 years.
After that, you can buy a new set, its no big deal, drilled rotors look better then generic NAPA rotors under an open wheel.
The cracking is way overplayed. JeffVette sees considerable track time and his rotors aren't cracked.
Even if I did 100% track time, which should have no slots or drilled holes, I'd probably still go with drilled/slotted for the appearance of the rotors behind the open wheel.
It would just cost me more $$ but what else is new in life??
Last edited by xlr8nflorida; 02-22-2010 at 03:29 PM.
#13
Burning Brakes
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But the only reason is for looks, NOT PERFORMANCE. It's what people care to see with the open spoke designs of wheels these days. Look at Tire Rack's pages and they even say not to use drilled rotors on the track. My dad is a brake tech. at Bosch's proving gounds and has done tests on blank, drilled, slotted, and drilled & slotted rotors. The best they have found for braking power were the blanks.
#14
Burning Brakes
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Also remember this. Once you get to the point where you can lock up the brakes, you don't need anymore power. The only thing bigger brakes are going to do is lock up quicker and get you into ABS quicker.
#15
Racer
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But the only reason is for looks, NOT PERFORMANCE. It's what people care to see with the open spoke designs of wheels these days. Look at Tire Rack's pages and they even say not to use drilled rotors on the track. My dad is a brake tech. at Bosch's proving gounds and has done tests on blank, drilled, slotted, and drilled & slotted rotors. The best they have found for braking power were the blanks.
#16
Safety Car
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Also, any rotor will start to show hairline stress cracks (drilled, slotted or blank) if they experience enough heat over multiple cycles.
I'll be upgrading to 18s here shortly & will be upgrading my binders as well--as my car just doesn't want to stop (!)
No track duty for the ZR (just a little 1/4 mi action)--but I'm interested in a high, hard pedal & tons of brake torque when I hit the pedal (driving cars set up for competition spoils me). I like aesthetics as well.
I'd like to upgrade to the C6Z binders (fantastic street setup) all the way around, but I understand a rear conversion is not out there.
#17
Drifting
For street driving with less than 18" wheels...go with some C5 brakes. You'll need the adapters for their calipers and I also recommend the DRM Motorpsorts Brake Bias Spring and some good Stainless Steel brakes lines....this is all for your front brakes. Your back brakes are another story. It's quite a bit 'o cash to upgrade the rears unless you don't care about losing your emergency brake....that being said if you can lose the parking brake (e-brake) then go with the rear C5 brakes too. Personally I think it is more effort than it's worth to mess with the rears. 70% of your braking is done by the fronts...
Good places to start...
http://www.superchevyperformance.com/category_s/43.htm (C5 brake components...great prices) BTW...the Z06 calipers are red (identical to the other C5 calipers but red)
http://pnwzr1.com/images/Brakes/88-96_Adapter.jpg (pic of the adapters)
http://pnwzr1.com/contact_pnwzr1.htm (C5 caliper adapters)
http://www.discbrakesrus.com/index.htm (good brake products)
Good places to start...
http://www.superchevyperformance.com/category_s/43.htm (C5 brake components...great prices) BTW...the Z06 calipers are red (identical to the other C5 calipers but red)
http://pnwzr1.com/images/Brakes/88-96_Adapter.jpg (pic of the adapters)
http://pnwzr1.com/contact_pnwzr1.htm (C5 caliper adapters)
http://www.discbrakesrus.com/index.htm (good brake products)
Last edited by guinnessdood; 03-12-2010 at 04:16 PM.