LT5 paint finish
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
LT5 paint finish
I saw it either on here or on the ZR-1 Net Registry Forum about a guy that repainted his LT5. He painted his silver but what is the factory color for the engine when they came out of Stillwater? I going to have the plenum off while I work on a few things and was considering doing that to the engine. Thanks for the help.
#2
NCM Lifetime # 982
Call Lingenfelter , last I checked they had the correct color paint.
#3
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I had mine powder coated, and it was not the stock color, but it looks great!
#4
I saw it either on here or on the ZR-1 Net Registry Forum about a guy that repainted his LT5. He painted his silver but what is the factory color for the engine when they came out of Stillwater? I going to have the plenum off while I work on a few things and was considering doing that to the engine. Thanks for the help.
Service bulletin #92-283-0A provides two paint number options from Dupont and PPG here: http://www.zr1netregistry.com/bulletins/922830a.jpg
I would also like to get the specifics on the paint and clear Hans used.
#5
Race Director
I believe you're referring to a recent post by Hans (CCMANO) and the pictures of his motor are spectacular.
Service bulletin #92-283-0A provides two paint number options from Dupont and PPG here: http://www.zr1netregistry.com/bulletins/922830a.jpg
I would also like to get the specifics on the paint and clear Hans used.
Service bulletin #92-283-0A provides two paint number options from Dupont and PPG here: http://www.zr1netregistry.com/bulletins/922830a.jpg
I would also like to get the specifics on the paint and clear Hans used.
I think your best bet would be to buy the paint from lingenfelter I did that to my First ZR-1 Looked good for a number of years this pic is of the rattle can spray painted LT5.
I then had it powdercoated when I was restoring The ZR-1.
#6
Drifting
Yup it was me. After speaking to Marc Haibeck in 08' about powder coating issues, he told me he was getting better results from paint. When I did my porting I decided to go the paint route. Lgaff (Lee Gaffigan) discovered the paint when he did the porting for me, so I decided to do the whole engine in it.
It's rattle can BMW Wheel paint (silver and clear) manufactured by Wurth. Just google it, it will come up. I recommend using a more heat resistant clear. I'm getting very minor yellowing in a few out of the way small, very hot spots. Just sand lightly between coats. Clear is what gives it the deeper powdercoat look. As with all paint, results are mostly in the prep. It came out like this...
H
It's rattle can BMW Wheel paint (silver and clear) manufactured by Wurth. Just google it, it will come up. I recommend using a more heat resistant clear. I'm getting very minor yellowing in a few out of the way small, very hot spots. Just sand lightly between coats. Clear is what gives it the deeper powdercoat look. As with all paint, results are mostly in the prep. It came out like this...
H
Last edited by ccmano; 04-17-2010 at 11:51 AM.
#8
Le Mans Master
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Another wheel paint
Like Hans, after listening to Marc H's problems with some powder coat finishes cracking and yellowing, I too decided to go with the silver wheel paint.
This is a shot of the plenum and you can contrast it with the stock 20 year old paint. (testing my fuel pressure under load that day...)
I chose to go with Dura Color, before I heard about Lee's recommendation (or I might have gone that route). IN any case, it has a metal fleck look about it (I tried to capture it, but light was pretty intense causing it to look almost grainy. It isn't, actually. Blame it on the photographer.) Lettering not painted yet...Maybe this w/e?
But, anyway...they came out very nice and will look better with (more) of the 500º engine clear coat layers on it. And, it is by no means brittle. In fact, I found the paint to be a bit soft for at least a week or so. So, until it really sets up, be careful handling it cuz otherwise it mars quite easily with bumps and knocks - is the only downsider I have about it.
FWIW,
P.
This is a shot of the plenum and you can contrast it with the stock 20 year old paint. (testing my fuel pressure under load that day...)
I chose to go with Dura Color, before I heard about Lee's recommendation (or I might have gone that route). IN any case, it has a metal fleck look about it (I tried to capture it, but light was pretty intense causing it to look almost grainy. It isn't, actually. Blame it on the photographer.) Lettering not painted yet...Maybe this w/e?
But, anyway...they came out very nice and will look better with (more) of the 500º engine clear coat layers on it. And, it is by no means brittle. In fact, I found the paint to be a bit soft for at least a week or so. So, until it really sets up, be careful handling it cuz otherwise it mars quite easily with bumps and knocks - is the only downsider I have about it.
FWIW,
P.
Last edited by Paul Workman; 04-17-2010 at 02:48 PM.
#9
Yup it was me. After speaking to Marc Haibeck in 08' about powder coating issues, he told me he was getting better results from paint. When I did my porting I decided to go the paint route. Lgaff (Lee Gaffigan) discovered the paint when he did the porting for me, so I decided to do the whole engine in it.
It's rattle can BMW Wheel paint (silver and clear) manufactured by Wurth. Just google it, it will come up. I recommend using a more heat resistant clear. I'm getting very minor yellowing in a few out of the way small, very hot spots. Just sand lightly between coats. Clear is what gives it the deeper powdercoat look. As with all paint, results are mostly in the prep. It came out like this...
H
It's rattle can BMW Wheel paint (silver and clear) manufactured by Wurth. Just google it, it will come up. I recommend using a more heat resistant clear. I'm getting very minor yellowing in a few out of the way small, very hot spots. Just sand lightly between coats. Clear is what gives it the deeper powdercoat look. As with all paint, results are mostly in the prep. It came out like this...
H
#10
Like Hans, after listening to Marc H's problems with some powder coat finishes cracking and yellowing, I too decided to go with the silver wheel paint.
I chose to go with Dura Color, before I heard about Lee's recommendation (or I might have gone that route). IN any case, it has a metal fleck look about it (I tried to capture it, but light was pretty intense causing it to look almost grainy. It isn't, actually. Blame it on the photographer.) Lettering not painted yet...Maybe this w/e?
But, anyway...they came out very nice and will look better with (more) of the 500º engine clear coat layers on it. And, it is by no means brittle. In fact, I found the paint to be a bit soft for at least a week or so. So, until it really sets up, be careful handling it cuz otherwise it mars quite easily with bumps and knocks - is the only downsider I have about it.
FWIW,
P.
I chose to go with Dura Color, before I heard about Lee's recommendation (or I might have gone that route). IN any case, it has a metal fleck look about it (I tried to capture it, but light was pretty intense causing it to look almost grainy. It isn't, actually. Blame it on the photographer.) Lettering not painted yet...Maybe this w/e?
But, anyway...they came out very nice and will look better with (more) of the 500º engine clear coat layers on it. And, it is by no means brittle. In fact, I found the paint to be a bit soft for at least a week or so. So, until it really sets up, be careful handling it cuz otherwise it mars quite easily with bumps and knocks - is the only downsider I have about it.
FWIW,
P.
But after seeing your results it might be something I decide to do next winter. I really like the hint of metal flake. The photographer did well, as did the painter!
#11
Race Director
What color is the dura color?
Like Hans, after listening to Marc H's problems with some powder coat finishes cracking and yellowing, I too decided to go with the silver wheel paint.
This is a shot of the plenum and you can contrast it with the stock 20 year old paint. (testing my fuel pressure under load that day...)
I chose to go with Dura Color, before I heard about Lee's recommendation (or I might have gone that route). IN any case, it has a metal fleck look about it (I tried to capture it, but light was pretty intense causing it to look almost grainy. It isn't, actually. Blame it on the photographer.) Lettering not painted yet...Maybe this w/e?
But, anyway...they came out very nice and will look better with (more) of the 500º engine clear coat layers on it. And, it is by no means brittle. In fact, I found the paint to be a bit soft for at least a week or so. So, until it really sets up, be careful handling it cuz otherwise it mars quite easily with bumps and knocks - is the only downsider I have about it.
FWIW,
P.
This is a shot of the plenum and you can contrast it with the stock 20 year old paint. (testing my fuel pressure under load that day...)
I chose to go with Dura Color, before I heard about Lee's recommendation (or I might have gone that route). IN any case, it has a metal fleck look about it (I tried to capture it, but light was pretty intense causing it to look almost grainy. It isn't, actually. Blame it on the photographer.) Lettering not painted yet...Maybe this w/e?
But, anyway...they came out very nice and will look better with (more) of the 500º engine clear coat layers on it. And, it is by no means brittle. In fact, I found the paint to be a bit soft for at least a week or so. So, until it really sets up, be careful handling it cuz otherwise it mars quite easily with bumps and knocks - is the only downsider I have about it.
FWIW,
P.
#12
Racer
Thread Starter
Thanks, guys. My engine is kinda dark grey not silver for a 92. My 95 was more silver color, so I really don't know what color it is supposed to be. I do have the paint number for Dupont but I was told that PPG stopped making heat paint. I do have one question: how did you guys paint in the Corvette on the cam covers and the 4 cam 32 valves on the plenum? I have several ideas but I hate to reinvent the wheel.
I am in the process of replacing all of the coolant hoses because they are 18 years old and thought this might a good time to spruce up the engine before BWG next May.
I am in the process of replacing all of the coolant hoses because they are 18 years old and thought this might a good time to spruce up the engine before BWG next May.
#14
Racer
Thread Starter
Outstanding! That solves a lot of concerns. By the by, I have spent a lot of time in AZO. I have even been to the Kalamazoo Air Zoo and seen the pink P-40. I kinda miss going over there from ORD but I don't miss the weather. Thanks, guys!
#15
Burning Brakes
Problem w/ any spray paint is matching color with the rest of the plenum (if partial resto is desired) or matching original color. Although I had a pleasure of having bought a spanking new ZR-1 in 1991, I cannot remember original color if my life depended on it.
At first, my intention was just to restore the throttle body top. So, I scraped off bubbles w/ razor blade, primed the area and then leveled the surface relative to adjacent surface w/ orange scratch filling putty. Then mixed up a batch of paint w/ Duplicolor VHT engine paint - primer, silver, black and a little gold. Primer and black was used to match the amount of metal flake. Once matched, I primed the area again, block sanded using a small eraser as a block w/ 600 grit. Paint was air brushed on w/ a Badger sprayer.
Although I got the color close, this made the rest of the plenum and cam covers look sloppy. So I ended up air brushing the entire top, used paper towel to knock off paint dust (air brushing was drying some particles before hiting the surface) and then hit the area w/ a light coat of VHT clear.
It came out pretty good - real happy with the result.
Just don't over do clear because it will turn yellow after a while.
Also, make sure you clean the surface real good with Simple Green. A lot of masking but the rest was pretty easy. It just takes a lot of patience and a steady hand when painting the recessed letters.
It has been 10 months and holding up with no issue - baked on!
At first, my intention was just to restore the throttle body top. So, I scraped off bubbles w/ razor blade, primed the area and then leveled the surface relative to adjacent surface w/ orange scratch filling putty. Then mixed up a batch of paint w/ Duplicolor VHT engine paint - primer, silver, black and a little gold. Primer and black was used to match the amount of metal flake. Once matched, I primed the area again, block sanded using a small eraser as a block w/ 600 grit. Paint was air brushed on w/ a Badger sprayer.
Although I got the color close, this made the rest of the plenum and cam covers look sloppy. So I ended up air brushing the entire top, used paper towel to knock off paint dust (air brushing was drying some particles before hiting the surface) and then hit the area w/ a light coat of VHT clear.
It came out pretty good - real happy with the result.
Just don't over do clear because it will turn yellow after a while.
Also, make sure you clean the surface real good with Simple Green. A lot of masking but the rest was pretty easy. It just takes a lot of patience and a steady hand when painting the recessed letters.
It has been 10 months and holding up with no issue - baked on!
#17
Burning Brakes
I found this, guys...
http://www.dieselfiltersonline.com/S...ar-Sp-115.aspx
Note the curing need...
Not solvent resistant until cured...
GS
http://www.dieselfiltersonline.com/S...ar-Sp-115.aspx
Note the curing need...
Not solvent resistant until cured...
GS
#19
I have a quart of the Cronar in my parts bin
G9889J Single Stage from Dupont called Cronar or DAU35598 from PPG.
The above is what GM recommends although some people claim its not an exact match.
G9889J Single Stage from Dupont called Cronar or DAU35598 from PPG.
The above is what GM recommends although some people claim its not an exact match.
Last edited by xlr8nflorida; 04-23-2010 at 02:09 PM.
#20
Burning Brakes
I have refinished the Z and am ready to reassemble:
Quite pleased with the finish. Question of the day is, what is the filter media used in the cam cover?
The rectangular area has a filter media much like a black kitchen scrub pad. It is held in place with a metal pin...
Thanks in advance for the help...
Quite pleased with the finish. Question of the day is, what is the filter media used in the cam cover?
The rectangular area has a filter media much like a black kitchen scrub pad. It is held in place with a metal pin...
Thanks in advance for the help...