captcorvette

OK folks I managed to destroy a water pump but don't have a clue as to why it failed.

Was in a parade for a car show only averaging about 40 kms when I started getting what sounded to me like a clutch rattle. Then over the next few minutes the temperature started to climb.Not being particularly brave in high 30'sC temps I pulled to the side of the road. Saw the coolant pouring out behind the pulley. Put the car on a recovery vehicle to my shop. Have managed to locate and purchase a new water pump and it is on its way over here to Dubai.

Any experienced words of wisdom, advice or tips and tricks on the replacement procedure? Have only taken the plenum off a few times but don't consider myself an "experienced" LT-5 wrench. All comments and advice is greatly appreciated.
Capt.

FASTAZU

Not a bad job at all.

Take pics, get a piece of cardboard and make a drawing of the pump and where the bolts go they are not all the same.

http://zr1.net/forum/showthread.php?t=14475

Go to post 108 scowl down to water pump.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1583616157

captcorvette

Thanks. Appreciate the information and references.

Scrrem

If your car still has the stock hose clamps, you will need the clamp tool to get the lower hose off the water pump...bit of a pain without the tool....
Rich

Dynomite

You are absolutely correct.......it took me 3 hours to remove that water pump clamp on a 95' just last week. Do you have a photo of that Clamp Tool you are referring to and are all of those original clamps the same orientation on each hose?

Can you get the Clamp Tool (it turns out there are many styles) into position on the LT5 on all hose clamps?

I used a combination of channel locks and screw drivers and finally had to use a mini Air Grinder. Then I cut the wrong place because the hose clamps still clamps without cutting almost 180 deg on each clamp.

Then on original Coolant Hoses that have never before been removed they are glued on and you have to cut the coolant hose lengthwise on the connection with razor blade and followed by the use of a flat screw driver.

I have a method to remove the Cam Covers Engine In Car that is easier than what I had to do to remove a Water Pump hose on this 95'

On that Water Pump Hose.....installing a New Coolant Hose I locate the New Stainless Steel Hose Clamp (with a 7mm/flat screw driver tightening nut) such that the Hose Clamp Nut is accessible from the bottom using an extension on a 1/4 inch socket wrench and 7mm socket (very easy from under the car). And those special hose clamps used on Silicon Hoses (Hose Clamp has rounded edges for Silicon Hose) are the best having the 7mm nut which is a lot better than using a Flat Screw Driver.

Scrrem

This is the kind I used, with a cable and you can get it into just about any position you need to. I wouldn't even attempt this job without this little gem....Make the job so much easier. Once you have it on the clamp, you compress it and it locks open and you just slip the clamp back and Whola!
Rich

Dynomite

Thank you Rich. I posted at "other place" also regarding old coolant hoses. Post up your tool there also as you like

cv67

Does Samco still make those hose kits they were nice just use the smooth stainless clamps ez duz it. Would be a good time to replace

May be some bolts hidden under grease there are plenty of them

Oh and have some xanax handy.

A26B

....

Zrxmax

It sounds like your bearing failed and took out the seal.

I don't know what brand of water pump you ordered as in, NOS, or rebuilt, or aftermarket. What I do know is the aftermarket pump I installed does not seem to flow the volume of coolant necessary

to keep the engine cool at freeway speeds in 6th gear. I bought it off John Sullivan ( I think ) over 10 years ago. My solution ( thanks to Hib ) for that is to use a 180 degree thermostat and drill two 1/8 inch holes in

the flange area that will allow more coolant to pass through it all the time. Granted, my Z is a bit different with 3.07 gears and a Ron Davis all aluminum radiator installed.

My observation was the new pump simply did not move the coolant through the system at the same flow rate as the original equipment pump that was replaced.

I am not suggesting you drill the thermostat for your car. I am simply letting you know this is what I had to do to get the coolant out of the motor quickly enough to keep it in the normal operating range when

cruising in the 70+ mph range in 6th gear.

FASTAZU

"A bit off topic" But what kind of RPM's do you run in 6th at 70 with that gearing?

Edit: I have 3.73"s in my 91 and like it for 70-75 in 6th.

cv67

curious too
with 4.09 gears 6th the engine wasnt real happy
ZRx do a lot of hwy driving or higher speed stuff?

captcorvette

Purchased an OEM from a friend's Cheby agency in the USA. It is constantly 40+C here in the summer time. I have installed big mouth type air intake under the car on all my C4's. Temps run a bit higher than I would like but well within operating parameters. Use a water wetter additive and keep a constant vigil on temps. Yes the bearing went south on me. The surprise was it happened quickly. Noise only started a few minutes (at idle) then the coolant evacuated one me. Got a bit lucky this time eh? Thanks again for all the input and valuable advice.
Capt.

Zrxmax

I have to admit that the low rpms I run at times are probably a bit controversial by some of the others that post here. I prefer 80+ when running 6th but will let the long down hill grades run all the way down to around 1100 rpm.

I have about 140K on my Z with approximately the last 70k using 3.07s. After a while I got use to them and now have grown to like them.

I recently ran some 4.10 like which is the same gear it had when I bought it back in 03. I found them to be to deep for the street. I even tried some 4.33s once... wow... 3 grand at a 100 mph. To short.

Why do I run 3.07s? Other than occasional extra clutch slippage to get rolling up hill there are several benefits. Improved gas milage under


good conditions, less shifting, and if I ever take it to the strip I will only shift twice. The top of third gear is about 127+ mph with 24.5 tall tires.

I can't say it has slowed the car down all that much acceleration wise. Under the right conditions ( less than ideal ) pushing the pedal will cause a little tire spin around 4500 rpm on the way to 7000 rpm.

Its also the right gear for ORRs wherever they happen to happen !

You can have some gear calculating fun here and see it all.

http://www.angelfire.com/fl/procrastination/rear.html