firebat

Part # 14104646
Any source for it - or should I give up?
Can it be hot wired to full power without blowing up anything?

TIA

WVZR-1

The switch is an easy repair using an older suburban rear gate glass cylinder for components if needed.

firebat

Thank you very much for the reply!

Can you give me the year and/or part number of the suburban rear gate glass cylinder?

Thanks again.

WVZR-1

'79 - '86 most Blazer/Jimmy - Suburban - you cannibalize the switch and use with the cylinder/housing and balance of the valet

6259467 would be the one I'd search for - JY usually do well.

firebat

Thank you.

-=Jeff=-

I might have a suburban switch.. that is good to know

Paul Workman

And, to answer your other question, YES you can connect the two leads together at the back of the switch (among other places too) w/o ill effects. In fact, this assures the connection is always made which is especially important for those (of us) that have yanked the secondary port throttles (SPT) out.

chriskinzel

Did you find one? I have an extra, but no key.

Dynomite

See Item #2 CMHSL LED, Full Power Key and Alternator Pulley

You can easily recondition the Full Power Key as per Kevin's great instructions

xlr8nflorida

I have a new 90 one in the box with keys and also have 4 90 used ones in top condition.

I also have 3 91-95's with keys.

AnthonyGS

I can assure you guys that my full power key setup looked nothing at all like the one in the writeup referred to above. My ZR is a 91 and the key was not a key cylinder but a huge plastic box. I had to reglue the box back in place as the screws on the back had broken off their mounting studs. I wonder why GM and others haven't figured out that driving sheet metal screws into a plastic isn't a long term solution.


Thank goodness I'm familiar with all sorts of adhesives because finding a new one seems even less likely now.


I'm also using my adhesives skill to repair my door panels.

WVZR-1

Well the OP was inquiring regarding a '90 so .....

I have a cylinder that actually is pinned for and came with a '91+ key. The bezel is a factory crimp

Regarding "driving screws into plastic" the valet switch for '91+ should have been attached with screw to a "Tinnerman" On-Sert® over the plastic stud and not directly into the plastic. If the stud was broken it was likely because someone has been there and didn't understand the On-Sert®

AnthonyGS

The "Tinnerman" On serts, sheet metals screws and all were perfectly in tact. The posts sheared right at the end of the screw which tells me the OD of the screw is larger than the ID of the plastic post. Driving sheet metal screws into a plastic is a bad idea. They could've gone with other methods such as putting threaded inserts into the plastic mold or a lot of other things. Previously working for a large OEM auto mfg, I used to re-engineer mess ups like this regularly. It's sad what gets passed off as engineering without adequate supervision.