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Is E15 Fuel safe for Our Cars?

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Old 02-12-2018, 10:31 AM   #61
KJL
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I agree with that.

I have my (non-Z 383) turning on at 190...with aux adding in at 205 myself. That's not enough to keep temps at/below 205 in my case. That's why I asked. In my case, I need more fan.

Could be my dbl-row radiator isn't the best OR boring .030" over created that much extra heat.
What temps do you typically run at?
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Old 02-12-2018, 07:53 PM   #62
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Without the A/C running, it will stay at stat temp all year round.

WITH the A/C running, it will creep up in the summer....if below 40mph.

I've got the BP4 option (aux fan) that kicks on by 210 (non-stock cylinder head switch). Even after the aux fan kicks on, temps continue to rise a deg/two every minute. I've never let it run (idle) long enough to see how high it will go....but it's made it into the 230s before I bailed and turned it off. (That's only happened once btw).

As long as I get it up above 40mph....temps drop back to outside temp + 100. IOW....If it's 95 outside, summer hwy temp WITH the A/C on will be around 195 (180-stat). If it's 100 out, it'll equalize around 200. So...I'm saying there's not enough cooling to dissipate engine + A/C heat below 40mph.

Everything in front of the radiator is clean.

I've considered it being a product of advanced cam timing, thinner cylinder wall thickness, below-par dual-row aftermarket radiator, or just the need for more "fan". Last summer, I reprogrammed the A/C to shut off above 210-deg. Until I buy bigger fans, at least I don't have to watch temps during the summer months. I'll be the one that gets hot!
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Old 02-12-2018, 08:16 PM   #63
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Without the A/C running, it will stay at stat temp all year round.

WITH the A/C running, it will creep up in the summer....if below 40mph.

I've got the BP4 option (aux fan) that kicks on by 210 (non-stock cylinder head switch). Even after the aux fan kicks on, temps continue to rise a deg/two every minute. I've never let it run (idle) long enough to see how high it will go....but it's made it into the 230s before I bailed and turned it off. (That's only happened once btw).

As long as I get it up above 40mph....temps drop back to outside temp + 100. IOW....If it's 95 outside, summer hwy temp WITH the A/C on will be around 195 (180-stat). If it's 100 out, it'll equalize around 200. So...I'm saying there's not enough cooling to dissipate engine + A/C heat below 40mph.

Everything in front of the radiator is clean.

I've considered it being a product of advanced cam timing, thinner cylinder wall thickness, below-par dual-row aftermarket radiator, or just the need for more "fan". Last summer, I reprogrammed the A/C to shut off above 210-deg. Until I buy bigger fans, at least I don't have to watch temps during the summer months. I'll be the one that gets hot!
That does not sound too bad. My 96 LT4 runs on the hot side. I installed a Dewitt's aluminum radiator. It was one of the first units that had the extra row. It is a bit thicker and was tricky to install but it works well. I am running the stock stat but what I noticed with the radiator is like you mentioned, idling in the Atlanta heat she will still creep up to that 230 mark but the temp gets pulled down a lot faster now. A cooler stat and getting the fans on sooner would work well. I am not sure how to do that with the 96.
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Old 02-13-2018, 03:18 AM   #64
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That does not sound too bad.
It's not....but the ideal is to maintain lower temps -- for the same reason as this thread: To reduce emissions. Also for longevity. I would even add SOME sources convey more power is delivered at SOMEWHAT lower temps. (Of course, others insist heat is power and higher temps gain ponies).

I try to look at where the factory engineers designed our cars to run....between 180-195. (Reverse vs non-reverse cooling accounts for most/all of that difference AND affects WHERE in the engine hottest coolant temps occur. I feel it useful to aim for that zone 100% of the time -- if possible.)

I think it's a good goal for the point of this thread too.

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