Is E15 Fuel safe for Our Cars?
02-12-2018, 09:31 AM
#61
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
I agree with that.
I have my (non-Z 383) turning on at 190...with aux adding in at 205 myself. That's not enough to keep temps at/below 205 in my case. That's why I asked. In my case, I need more fan.
Could be my dbl-row radiator isn't the best OR boring .030" over created that much extra heat.
I have my (non-Z 383) turning on at 190...with aux adding in at 205 myself. That's not enough to keep temps at/below 205 in my case. That's why I asked. In my case, I need more fan.
Could be my dbl-row radiator isn't the best OR boring .030" over created that much extra heat.
02-12-2018, 06:53 PM
#62
Race Director
Without the A/C running, it will stay at stat temp all year round.
WITH the A/C running, it will creep up in the summer....if below 40mph.
I've got the BP4 option (aux fan) that kicks on by 210 (non-stock cylinder head switch). Even after the aux fan kicks on, temps continue to rise a deg/two every minute. I've never let it run (idle) long enough to see how high it will go....but it's made it into the 230s before I bailed and turned it off. (That's only happened once btw).
As long as I get it up above 40mph....temps drop back to outside temp + 100. IOW....If it's 95 outside, summer hwy temp WITH the A/C on will be around 195 (180-stat). If it's 100 out, it'll equalize around 200. So...I'm saying there's not enough cooling to dissipate engine + A/C heat below 40mph.
Everything in front of the radiator is clean.
I've considered it being a product of advanced cam timing, thinner cylinder wall thickness, below-par dual-row aftermarket radiator, or just the need for more "fan". Last summer, I reprogrammed the A/C to shut off above 210-deg. Until I buy bigger fans, at least I don't have to watch temps during the summer months. I'll be the one that gets hot!
WITH the A/C running, it will creep up in the summer....if below 40mph.
I've got the BP4 option (aux fan) that kicks on by 210 (non-stock cylinder head switch). Even after the aux fan kicks on, temps continue to rise a deg/two every minute. I've never let it run (idle) long enough to see how high it will go....but it's made it into the 230s before I bailed and turned it off. (That's only happened once btw).
As long as I get it up above 40mph....temps drop back to outside temp + 100. IOW....If it's 95 outside, summer hwy temp WITH the A/C on will be around 195 (180-stat). If it's 100 out, it'll equalize around 200. So...I'm saying there's not enough cooling to dissipate engine + A/C heat below 40mph.
Everything in front of the radiator is clean.
I've considered it being a product of advanced cam timing, thinner cylinder wall thickness, below-par dual-row aftermarket radiator, or just the need for more "fan". Last summer, I reprogrammed the A/C to shut off above 210-deg. Until I buy bigger fans, at least I don't have to watch temps during the summer months. I'll be the one that gets hot!
02-12-2018, 07:16 PM
#63
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Without the A/C running, it will stay at stat temp all year round.
WITH the A/C running, it will creep up in the summer....if below 40mph.
I've got the BP4 option (aux fan) that kicks on by 210 (non-stock cylinder head switch). Even after the aux fan kicks on, temps continue to rise a deg/two every minute. I've never let it run (idle) long enough to see how high it will go....but it's made it into the 230s before I bailed and turned it off. (That's only happened once btw).
As long as I get it up above 40mph....temps drop back to outside temp + 100. IOW....If it's 95 outside, summer hwy temp WITH the A/C on will be around 195 (180-stat). If it's 100 out, it'll equalize around 200. So...I'm saying there's not enough cooling to dissipate engine + A/C heat below 40mph.
Everything in front of the radiator is clean.
I've considered it being a product of advanced cam timing, thinner cylinder wall thickness, below-par dual-row aftermarket radiator, or just the need for more "fan". Last summer, I reprogrammed the A/C to shut off above 210-deg. Until I buy bigger fans, at least I don't have to watch temps during the summer months. I'll be the one that gets hot!
WITH the A/C running, it will creep up in the summer....if below 40mph.
I've got the BP4 option (aux fan) that kicks on by 210 (non-stock cylinder head switch). Even after the aux fan kicks on, temps continue to rise a deg/two every minute. I've never let it run (idle) long enough to see how high it will go....but it's made it into the 230s before I bailed and turned it off. (That's only happened once btw).
As long as I get it up above 40mph....temps drop back to outside temp + 100. IOW....If it's 95 outside, summer hwy temp WITH the A/C on will be around 195 (180-stat). If it's 100 out, it'll equalize around 200. So...I'm saying there's not enough cooling to dissipate engine + A/C heat below 40mph.
Everything in front of the radiator is clean.
I've considered it being a product of advanced cam timing, thinner cylinder wall thickness, below-par dual-row aftermarket radiator, or just the need for more "fan". Last summer, I reprogrammed the A/C to shut off above 210-deg. Until I buy bigger fans, at least I don't have to watch temps during the summer months. I'll be the one that gets hot!
02-13-2018, 02:18 AM
#64
Race Director
It's not....but the ideal is to maintain lower temps -- for the same reason as this thread: To reduce emissions. Also for longevity. I would even add SOME sources convey more power is delivered at SOMEWHAT lower temps. (Of course, others insist heat is power and higher temps gain ponies).
I try to look at where the factory engineers designed our cars to run....between 180-195. (Reverse vs non-reverse cooling accounts for most/all of that difference AND affects WHERE in the engine hottest coolant temps occur. I feel it useful to aim for that zone 100% of the time -- if possible.)
I think it's a good goal for the point of this thread too.
I try to look at where the factory engineers designed our cars to run....between 180-195. (Reverse vs non-reverse cooling accounts for most/all of that difference AND affects WHERE in the engine hottest coolant temps occur. I feel it useful to aim for that zone 100% of the time -- if possible.)
I think it's a good goal for the point of this thread too.